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Projects 1960 Studebaker Lark Gasser

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hightone111, Jul 8, 2010.

  1. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    I do! Blue/white with scallops, lace and lettering. I think


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  2. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    The good thing about paint is that it is paint. It is not a tattoo. o_O
     
  3. uncleandy 65
    Joined: Jan 14, 2013
    Posts: 4,140

    uncleandy 65
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  4. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    The Studebreaker is down. Had it’s first flat tow yesterday. Throttle is locked up. The primary butterfly shaft won’t move. Should have time to tear into it soon, I really hope the FiTech is ok
    IMG_4437.JPG


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  5. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
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  6. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,029

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Did you have any backfires with the FiTech throttlebody on the engine ?

    Mike
     
  7. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Crap! Let us know what you find.
     
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  8. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
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    Not that I recall


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  9. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
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    from Nevada

    Could it be something in the linkage or cable?
     
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  10. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    No, all of that is moving free.


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  11. TRENDZ
    Joined: Oct 16, 2018
    Posts: 386

    TRENDZ

    Do you run a blow off valve? If not, your blades are probably stuck in the throttle bore.
    I suspect your throttle blade is set to close to being fully closed. If the throttle blade is to far closed, when you let off the throttle, you have boost above the blade and vacuum below, and the blade will flex enough to jam in the bore.
    With efi, you are best off having the blade open enough to hold the correct idle speed when warm with very minimal iac (less than 10%)
    If you are seeing high iac values warm, reset the blade to bring the value down. You will likely need to reset the closed throttle value, but will be much less likely to ever have the throttle lock up again.
    A light tap on the blades from the underside will free up the front shaft.
     
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  12. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    I suspect something like that happened although I am running a bypass valve and (assume) my iac values are in that range. But I recall a slight sticking feeling when operating it by hand prior to this happening. I’ll check it out soon and update


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  13. uncleandy 65
    Joined: Jan 14, 2013
    Posts: 4,140

    uncleandy 65
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  14. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
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  15. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    This is someone's BUILD thread not a collection of every Lark ever photographed. Put these on the other Studebaker thread where you put the rest.
     
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  16. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    So it turns out that the butterflies were just stuck in the chamber. There’s an adjustment screw that I would assume is an idle adjustment, but I believe they consider it IAC that needed to be turned in just past were they were sticking. But now is running poorly and missing a lot. May just be bad plugs due to some recent tuning issues. Hopefully it’s sorted soon. Nothing is broken so that’s good!


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  17. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
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    Well I started off to the dmv yesterday to register and started hearing some knocking. I’ve had low oil pressure once warm from the get go. I got a bad feeling. But hopefully when I get a chance to pull the pan I will find a bad oil pump or something simple (fingers crossed). Anyway...the Stude is down and out for awhile


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  18. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Damn! The oil pumps can be rebuilt. I don't like the knocking part but that's fixable too. At high revs these engines have a tendency to pump a lot of oil into the top of the engine with too small return passages. That's also fixable. Don't give up on the Stude call on your friends.
     
  19. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,029

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Stude engines...HAVE...low oil pressure when hot.
    There's not really anything in the Stude pump to go bad..! They are about as simple as it gets.
    Two things -
    1. Scarred lower plate, by dirt, and-or lack of oil.
    2. Scarred pump drive shaft, by dirt, and-or lack of oil.

    If you had "around" 12 to 15psi, at 750rpm, that's pretty normal. And that's with Castrol 20-50 GTX oil. My 259 had that idle speed pressure for the 93,000 miles that I drove it.
    Even tightly clearanced pumps, you'll only get a couple more psi. Tight cam to bearing clearances help, as do all other bearing clearances.

    I modified a Stude pump to put a Chevy bypass on it. In my static tests...no difference at low (drill motor) rpm. Though I will be using it in my hot rod 299 engine, so we'll see what it might do at higher rpm.

    The knocking...could be a lot of things. Beside bearing problems, like many engines have, the Stude engine adds to the list...the piston pin coming out of the rod. Since they are held in with a pinch bolt, if that pinch bolt comes loose, the pin will move to one side and bang into the cylinder wall.

    But you need to do some normal searching with a stethoscope, and start eliminating the obvious stuff, before getting into the deeper stuff. Then just start tearing things apart..."slowly". Check things carefully as you go.

    Good luck.

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2020
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  20. Bearcat_V8
    Joined: Sep 21, 2011
    Posts: 386

    Bearcat_V8
    Member
    from Dexter, MI

    A couple years ago while at the South Bend swap, I asked Ted Harbit what kind of oil system mods he recommended for stude V8s. He said basically, no mods were required. The only mod he recommended was to use late V8 rocker shafts with the smaller oil passage, so as to restrict oil to the top end. That was it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2020
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  21. TRENDZ
    Joined: Oct 16, 2018
    Posts: 386

    TRENDZ

    Good luck! Knocking sucks, but its much better than a big “boom”!
     
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  22. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
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    I had 20 psi at 2500...however I inspect things as thoroughly as I know how before I get carried away.


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  23. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Let us know if we can help. I feel sorta' responsible for some of this and for not helping.
     
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  24. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,029

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    While that sounds low, it's only a few pounds low...in my 12 or 13 year Stude experience.
    What's the pressure at 3500 rpm ?
    That's where mine spent most of its time while on the freeways.

    Mike
     
  25. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    10 pounds per thousand rpm is an old rule of thumb used for years with a lot of older engines. Pressure does not lubricate it just delivers the lubricant. Stude V8 tend to over lube a couple of places like the rocker shaft and the lifter bores. That extra volume can drop the pressure especially when the valve covers fill up and the pan can run low. It normally isn't a problem but long high rpm runs can cause oil starvation. John Erb told us some of this.
    Do you still have my Dick Dotson books? There are tips scattered through them about oiling.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2020
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  26. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    I’d be happy with 10lb per 1k but it doesn’t get much over 20psi ever. Yeah I still have the books somewhere around her.


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  27. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    If the oil pressure relief valve isn't working right it can lower the pressure.
    I did this search and got a whole evening of reading and it's just the relief valve part.
     
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  28. Hightone111
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 323

    Hightone111
    Member

    I wondered about the valve too. I inspected it, looked fine. But are there specs somewhere, how do I know I have the correct parts installed...will look into it more when I get to it.



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  29. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,029

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    There's one piston, period.
    While I'm not 100% positive, I also believe there is, one spring. BUT, as in all pumps, at lower rpms, the piston is not moving yet, doing nothing to lower the pressure. I don't know at what pressure the spring holds the piston from moving to raise the pressure.

    Go over to the Studebaker Racing site, ask there, at what pressure the piston starts moving to relieve pressure.

    You can shim the spring...just make sure that you don't go too far.
    I'd start with a .125" long shim (a few thousanths smaller than the bore diameter in the block), and see what happens. The good thing...it's really simple to get to at the front of the engine, right side.

    Again, having the gears scaring the bottom plate will lower the pressure.
    Having the drive gears shaft scared (in the housing), will lower the pressure.
    One thing that I did not mention, is blueprinting the pump. That is, making sure the that the clearance from the housing bottom to the bottom of the gears is per spec. This is like the engine bearings, too loose...will lower the pressure.
    And again, the bearing clearances will lower the oil pressure.

    None of this is rocket science, all pretty up front, and somewhat obvious.

    Mike
     
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  30. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,029

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Another thought -

    If...you still have the original pressure spring, you may...pick 3 to 5 psi with a new spring.
    Heat is what kills springs. Either internal (cycles) or external heat will weaken a spring. I'd imagine that if your engine has an original or older spring, it's been through thousands of heat cycles, of mostly external heat.

    Might be worth a coupla bucks to try a fresh one.

    Mike
     
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