Getting ready to have my rusty and crusty coupe sandblasted so I can see what I'm working with prior to patching holes and reconstructing the whole back end. What is the recommended method or product to use to minimize flash rust when painting is down the road a piece? Have folks used Eastwood's Afterblast? Is there a better product or method y'all recommend? Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Depends on your plans after it's blasted. If you're planning to do some body work, hit it with "After Blast" or Gibbs Brand. The After Blast will etch the metal for paint and also preserve the metal keeping the rust away for a while. Gibbs brand will not etch but it will preserve the metal from rust and you can do body work and paint over either one. You can put a coat of sealer(epoxy primer) to the bare metal to preserve it. If you have it soda blasted, they add a preservative to the mix so that you don't get flash rust but it's only good for a few days. I'm sure the paint gurus will give you more information than I can. This guy is funny as hell and gives good advice.
use a better sand blaster than the guy hired to do that car in the video. it should come back without any surface rust or rusty spots.
Had mine painted with epoxy primer immediately after blasting. My biggest concern was overheating and warping. Be sure they have experience blasting old tin.
Depends on how long it sits after being sand blasted. If it's humid, the flash rust will almost be instant.
I would not recommend “sand” blasting. I have had vehicles soda blasted, media blasted and chemically dipped. Depending on the condition of the metal is how I determine what method to use. The media and soda parts are treated with a neutralizer, a rust inhibitor, then epoxy primer. Anything that is dipped gets e coated, then epoxy primer this insures that every surface inside and out is protected from future corrosion. Just my personal opinion from my experiences.
I did the underside of my 57 Chevy about 50 years ago. I noticed when I heated the blasted area slightly moisture would appear on the surface, probably from the compressed air. I heated the area any way I could an as fast as I could I wiped it down with lacquer thinner add shot on some primer. Figured the compressor might add some oil to the mix! It was a pain in the bottom, but when I was all finished it was worth it! Sidebar: completed the car in drag trim, went to Maple Grove, did a small burnout, staged, lights came down and off I went! Got back to the pits and a track official was waiting for me. Seems all the sand in the box frame came out on the starting line. They were nice about it and told me to go back to the return road and do about 10 burnout/ launches! OK ! Worked great!!!
I sandblasted the areas that I knew would need patch panels and then moved the car inside to do the work, after I had all the new metal in place I moved the car outside and sandblasted the entire car, I then DA the car and wiped the car down with surface prep. Next I shot a coat of primer and then moved the car back inside and started doing body work. HRP
I would have it blasted with recycled glass / water method. Just make sure that that you have the guy doing it add enough "Hold tight" rust inhibitor so you have enough time to get it in Epoxy primer . Hold tight says it's good for around 72 hours but my thinking is more like 24 hours. If your doing the underside of your hood ,deck lid or inside of your front fenders prime all the inner/ undersides first. Don't even bother trying to wipe it down with anything first . You want to do these areas first because if you do get flash rust the inner/ undersides have all the hard to sand areas. I did it that way and then did the outer sections of everything the following day after hitting it with 80/120 grit da and wiping down.
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