Technical Hydraulic vs mechanical vs cable

Thanks to all that have posted, I hope this thread helps anyone looking for a alternative solution for their clutch dilemma. HRP

 

I have a couple of questions with the three styles: linkage, Cable, Hyd external slave. At either end of the throw out bearing travel; how much disc clearence is needed at end of travel, full release and how much is needed at TO and PP fingers at full engagement. I have three cars with one of each style.. I can just about get .030 at TO/fingers and .060 at disc. Enuff or not?

 

for me , when I put a FE and 3 speed in my model A, I modified a 39 pedal with a piece on the bottom. Used an old external gear linkage going straight to clutch fork. Clutch seems a bit heavy but you get use to it as you don't need to push the pedal down that much,, cheers

 

Modified Mustang cable form Brizio's. I didn't have room for a z-bar and I didn't want the expense and complexity of hydraulic.

 

Older thread I know but has anyone tried using a cable with the original early ford fork,cross shaft and lever? As in replacing just the mechanical link with a cable?
I’ve made a bellhousing using a Cad auto bellhousing front section,welded on an Ali plate and made a cross shaft setup as per original ford. T5 box,Diaphragm clutch setup, hoping to use a cable but am thinking I will have to increase the length of the actuator arm.
Outrigger bearing may be an overkill but will help the cross shaft bushes.

 

I have used the mcloud adjustable throw out bearing with huge success. I ran it with the largest bore wildwood cylinder for a great pedal feel. The adjustable bearing makes all the difference. It's kind of pricey but well worth it. You get what you pay for.

 

Make the cross shaft supports bronze bushed and grease able. Cable will work fine, adjust lever length to suit..

 

Oh, HE certainly forgives you, fellow Sinner ! The ones HE has doubts about are the FoMoCo heretics ! ! Oh, I hope HE knows I am just jesting ! LOL.

 

Very clean, simple setup, Houston. If we ever have another LSRU

Very simple, clean setup, Houston. If we ever have another LSRU, I'll look for you, IF I am still above ground. We'll have a brewski to celebrate being above ground. I'll be in one of the gillion red Deuce roadsters with yellow steelies but a/c.

 

Anyone?

 

McLeod says in the neighborhood of .060=.060 disc clearance pedal fully depressed on their clutches.

 

I'm a mechanical linkage guy... with cable running a distant second. I'd have to be desperate to use hydraulic. My dislike of hydraulic is based on several things. One, they can fail in multiple ways with virtually no warning. Two, their self-adjusting feature also prevents you from having any feedback about clutch wear. Three, they can be a real PITA to install/bleed. And if you're using an external slave cylinder, you really haven't saved all that much space.

Cable has it's attractions, but that large cable protruding out of the firewall just doesn't look right to me. And given my unwanted ability to get the one bad part in a boxcar full, cable failure will always be in the back of my mind. A custom-length cable only makes this worse. If I were to use a cable, I'd be sure to have a spare on hand at all times.

I understand that designing/fabricating a mechanical clutch linkage is a daunting task, but it's not insuperable. And any failure can usually be fixed with a welder...

 

I've messed with so many Tri - 5 through 1964 X frame Chevies theres no need to do anything but go mechanical. It works.

 

I can get the .060 at the disc but throwout to fingers is only about.030 with clutch engaged..This is with a diafram clutch..When I had a long style clutch there was no problem. Seems the diafram clutch needs more throw? Its on the edge of being too quick [short pedal ratio] engagement to be comfortable.