Technical ***May 2020 Banger Meet Thread - 4 are Essential***

Red snot everywhere. Driving to town and just got 1/2 mile from home on a cold motor ,next thing just nudging 60mph the windscreen got covered in water as the original radiator cap on the 32 disappeared in the bushes/grass never to be seen again. Came home filled it up , as soon as we get to 45 mph water tries to escape the cap . Gave it the TeKay gas in the radiator test and it came back positive.
Its never overheated , grabbed my IR thermometer and got the motor as hot as I could and it was just 83 on the top tank and 76 on the bottom .
Popped the head off and yikes red snot slathered everywhere, blocked steam holes , traces in the combustion chamber. Could not easily see a blown gasket or any block cracks.

 

Red silicone on a head gasket ...nice before going too far Id clean and straight edge the deck and head,hope that snot isnt a "leveling course"

 

Who knows what the PO thought . Have not checked block as yet. But head has gone to machine shop for a check and clean. Some slight pitting on deck between 2 and 3 where the elliptical hole in head is. Will check block this AM

 

Contacted HotRodPro here, he pointed me to a shop up in Spring owned by a nice older gentleman. Called ahead, talked a bit about the motor. Went over today, he had a SBC exhaust valve that dropped right in. 1.625 head. We did some measuring, gives about 0.125 clearance to the closest contact side of the head (recent production Sherman out of LA, flat head v8 cc) nearest the ports, so with massaging with a die grinder, the intake will not be shrouded. I think having good flow all around the valve will be better than trying to squeeze in 1.70 or bigger. There isn’t a lot of clearance over the top of the valve, does anyone have the math about how much space there needs to be to ensure good laminar flow all around? It is like 0.25”?


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We are talking a T engine, correct?
I have read posts of 1.70" fitting (1.72" also). It would be wise to measure things very carefully as I think that's about the limit. If a SBC valve dropped right in, someone probably already opened the guides to 11/32. The SBC valve is very popular and fits with the Adjustable lifters if you choose to go that route. I think however the stock length comes up short for stock T lifters...but you can buy + length stems. BTW, a stock Model T valve is 5.075" in length.

From Rockauto, You can get some EngineTech Ford 351 Clevland exhaust valves that have the specs as shown below.
Part# V1765
Stem Diameter: .3415"
Valve head: 1.654"
Keeper Grooves 4
Notes Chrome Stem
Stem Diameter 11/32
Valve Length 5.051

You then can use Ford Tractor 9N valve retainers with a stock style Model T spring with the proper modern valve keepers to match the valves (same with the Chevy valves too). I have not actually used that part# valve, but I have used part# V1761 (351 Windsor) and the matching single groove keepers with the 9 N retainers. Using the V1761 valves I grind the tips (on my valve machine) to achieve the correct valve lash using stock lifters---basically the same as a stock T valve.

V1761 valve:
Stem Diameter 0.3413 in
Valve Head Diameter 1.539 in
Lock Groove Quantity 1
Material Chrome Stem
Stem Diameter 11/32 in
Length 5.075 in

 

Checked my block for straight as in above posting. I could see a little light under the straight edge , but the only feeler gauge I had that would go under was metric .050 mm , google says .00196 or somewhere there .

 

Well you look like you have some work to do.
Both 1 and 2 are leaking into the water, 1 by ex valve and 2 towards the center of head and block..
If your straight edge test is even half way accurate the block needs to be trued.
Getting that stud out may be a bitch, you can probably weld a nut to it and pull it out.
If not and you helicoil it, do not drill thru to the water jacket, that just causes problems.
That's a nice "B" block, do what you can to save it.

John

 

Yep, just a boring ol’T flat motor. Great information!!! Thank you. Will file that away.

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Socal weather doesn't require being choked !

 

Yeah, run one on rear of '30 A roadster.
I was pleasantly surprised how much ride improvement was noticed , especially on corners !!

 

@hardtimesainit is the rest of your suspension on your roadster stock? What size wheels and tires are you using? Thanks, Joe

 

Not really 4 banger, I found a new impeller for the dyno.

John

 

Hey Joe,
Well, rear shocks are modern tube. Front shocks are MG. 4" Okie Joe dropped original axle. All 16" Kelsey Hayes wires with 6:00- 16 Coker steel belts with radial tubes. Rear ratio 3:54. '39trans Zepher gears 26 tooth. Russian B. 2 81s. header..
Ran well, nice easy driver. The rear bar made a great unexpected improvement !

 

So you had it setup the way you just described then added the rear bar.

 

Got to sit in my speedster this evening. Seats mocked up. Felt nice.






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Vintage Ford Forum has a new topper

 

Thanks for that. I had them in stock. I hauled that old 53 carcass home in the early 70's and as far as I can remember this is the first time I've used anything from it, haha.
Found a ball in my inventory about the right size and raised the worst of the dents. These poor dust caps had lived a hard life. Surprised me how strong the steel is compared to the modern soft dust caps.

 

Anyone recognize this exhaust manifold/header?

Thanks,

Geoffrey

 

Looks like one that Tod Buttermore (427designer) did recently.

 

Moonlight,
Clean looking setup.
Would you mind explaining the oil flow as it goes through the external hard lines?
Also:
What is the blue inline device?
Is there a remote oil filter after the timing cover? If so, where is the filtered oil being sent to?
Thanks in advance for your help
Peace, Phred

 

***** bummer ! i use copper coat on both side of head gasket , twice !!!

 

*** nice motor . some aftermarket cast iron header . also i know a good plummer

 

That's a great picture,
helps me understand how to rout a pressure relief valve.Thanks

 

Blue device looks like a pressure relief valve but I hope he explains whats going on

 

The Blue device looks like a check valve and possibly a pill restricted output.
The filter mount looks to have two lines going back under the firewall.
I would guess an external pump not seen? or not finished

 

Bit of firewall and steering brace work. Trying to figure out a clean way to keep the steering column from “wiggling”. Thinking of 2 sets of triangulation. One set under the hood, from the top of the cowl to the frame and secured. The second, being the floor board angle and mouthing. Nice to be able to pop out to the shop after work, instead of a 90 minute drive in traffic.




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I think the oil pump is mounted on the side of the timing cover (in place of the inspection cover) driven off of the cam gear.

.

 

Doesn't look to me like there's room in that cover for a gear to run on the cam gear. Looks like the whole thing is behind the cam gear.

 

Snyder/ Buttermore header

 

Like railcar said Snyders sells that style header but Duke Hallock designed that and sold them back in the late 30's or early 40's.