Is anyone familiar with the old BEAR #27 spindle mount alignment tool? Why are there two sets of scales on all three bubble levels? Thanks
Get ahold of a circle track racer, they use them all the time, but on the hub. We used one a week ago on our circle track car. But it belonged to a fellow racer and I didn’t see how or when he zeroed it in. They work fairly good, though. Might get ahold of Speedway, they sell one just like it,maybe you can get a set if instructions! Bones
Standard equipment in a front end shop 50 years ago and what the guys with the fancy electronic stuff will tell you that their 30K machine is "as accurate as" You pop the dust cap off, wipe the grease off the hub and the magnet should stick to the hub. The camber gauge is just that a camber gauge that tells you the camber angle of the wheel plus or minus. No calibrations or setting it. The caster correction gauge comes into play when you turn the wheel out 20 degrees at the front, level that gauge to zero and then level the caster gauge with the thumb screw on the back side. Then you turn the wheel so it is angled in 20 degrees at the front and read the caster. I've got my old SnapOn caster camber gauge out in the tool box along with two more far less expensive ones. Here it is, I had to go out and feed the cat so I pulled it out of the box. I need to send it in and have the camber bubble repaired. Second shot shows the instructions on the back and third shot shows the magnet that sticks to the hub. There is one gauge that the caster function works in reverse of the Snap-On but I don't remember which one.
BONEYARD51- The one we have is a hub mount we just had the magnet off. All the ones I see for sale only have one scale to read on camber/caster. I'm trying to figure out which scale to go by. MR>48CHEV- Thanks for the pictures. I think I know why there are two scales for the end (KPA& caster correction). Now just hoping to find someone to tell us which side to read for camber/caster.
I hear ya! They all look similar, but I can see different scales configured different ways! Makes for a confusing situation. Best to get the instructions for your machine. I know they measure, how accurately, I’m not sure. But, we had to make a lot of adjustments that ours indicated we needed on our race car. The guy that owned it had the instructions in his head, while I knew “what “ we were setting, I did not see “how “he measured it. Good luck in your search. Bones
@Mr48chev I also have that same Snap On set along with the roll around stand with all the parts and pieces. I too have another set of gauges and "Quija" boards. This second setup was the old ramp drive on unit from Main Street Garage GM dealer in Madras Oregon. Dad bought it years ago and kept the equipment mobile and turned the ramps upside down and used them on what is now my car trailer for wheel troughs to park the car in. Deep channels so never any worry about a car sliding sideways in a bad situation. Your directions are "right on"! Dave
Look up Longacre for theirs and print the instructions. We just used ours on a straight axle car we built.. you need the be able to turn the front wheels approx 20 degrees in both directions. We use 2 12”x12” plates under each tire with grease in between them.
It works easier if you don't have turning plates to use 2 pieces of sheet metal under each front tire grease in between the sheet metal and stack one on top the other . It makes for easier turning. I had my greasy metal plates for years when I raced dirt track.
Camber reads on the camber side. Once you stick it on the hub you look to see what mark the center of the bubble is on an if it is on the + or - side. Plus the wheel is leaning out at the top. Minus it is leaning in. That is the bubble on the left side of your gauge that says Camber. If you stick it to a steel cabinet or post in the shop that is perfectly vertical it should read 0. I bought a Quick trick caster camber gauge set a year ago just to get the plates when a guy had them for sale. The metal plates with grease between them will work or a couple rounds of masonite with grease between the smooth sides should actually work. The idea is to get the wheels to turn smooth without the tires binding up on the shop floor and to be able to settle the suspension easier. Any time I make an adjustment I bounce the vehicle a few times to get the suspension to settle out so I get an accurate reading. CASTER your gauge may be the one that you turn in 20 degrees zero the gauge, then turn out 20 degrees to read caster. That is turn it in 20 degrees at the front. level the caster correction bubble (red) adjust the caster gauge to read zero and then turn the wheel to where it is 20 degrees out at the front and read the caster. It appears to be backwards from mine. If you know someone who has a gauge that they use regularly or have a buddy who does front end work in a shop you might want to take the gauge over and have them confirm exactly how to read it. It will take using it a few times and remembering the steps but after a few times it will become natural to you.
They aren't highly accurate. They fall into that "kinda close" or "better than nothing" category. We have 3 at the shop and all three will give a different reading. Camber is close between the 3 but caster isn't. We have adjustable bubble wheel gauges that you have to set up and center and they are pretty accurate. But my go-to is the old bee line hand gauge. Its the most accurate. Wish I could find one for my home shop.
I seldom use it and definitely don't have a full grasp on the use of it but, it has all of the scales labeled and directions on the back.
Here is one I purchased from Speedway. I have used it on '55 to '72 GM cars and have been satisfied with it. Based on the adjustments I have made, it seems to dial-in pretty well. I don't have turn plates, just a smooth garage floor and do make sure that area is as level as possible. You should be able to click on the pdf file to see the instructions that it came with. Hope it helps.
You didn’t offend me, you attacked my post that was just trying to help the OP, with my experiences. You can still kiss my ass! Bones
Here’s a backyard trick for turning plates. Get four pieces of heavy tin about one foot square. Put one down directly under the tire, spray it with some light oil. Put the other pieces of tin on the first tin and let the car down on the pieces of tin! Works just as good as the high dollar turn plates.....almost! Lol Bones
For camber the key is in the turning end to end and when you adjust Zero on the scales. Dirt cars are set so screwy you can’t even mention it here but we turn real good left. Did anyone mention 2 plates with grease between them? If don’t have any aluminum or grease, newspaper will work.... wait a minute... there are no newspapers any more....
56C3B6 - Thanks for the picture, looks like we use the outside scales for regular camber/caster readings. We do have turntables, it's just that the instructions were not very clear on the back of the tool.
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