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Technical 32 radiator cap with 4lb pressure

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Kiwi 4d, May 17, 2020.

  1. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We are rebuilding our 32 B4 radiator and want to keep the on top of grill shell filler . Are there any secret tips to fitting a 4lb cap hidden under the original radiator cap. Obviously we will fit the correct filler neck.
     
  2. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    The easy way is to have a remote filler like everyone has with a filled shell and just run a dummy cap in the stock position.
     
    mgtstumpy likes this.
  3. Do like Walker ,and put a filler on the back of the top tank.You wont see it until the hood is open.Put a dummy fill on the top.
     
  4. OzyRodder
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 307

    OzyRodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Skip Haney sells a 4lb pressure valve that goes on the end of your overflow tube. Just make sure the radiator cap is tight and leak free. It will maintain 4lb and needs no modifications to radiator


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    sloppy jalopies and hemihotrod66 like this.

  5. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
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    Skip Haney could be an option , so can we fit an overflow return bottle? But as I said I don’t want a remote filler under the hood , that would defeat the purpose, and be too easy. We have a remote filler on a walker radiator on our 32 hi boy with no hood, this 32 we are tying to keep an original appearance befitting its present condition , with a much hopped up OHV 4 banger .
     
    harpo1313 likes this.
  6. OzyRodder
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 307

    OzyRodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The skip Haney valve is an in-line brass valve. You can have the outlet hose go to an overflow if you want. I have it run to the ground and after the initial settling of level it doesn’t leak any more. Especially useful for an original radiator as they can’t handle much pressure.


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  7. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
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    Am I correct in assuming Skips valve is just one way. In that when the radiator cools it doesn’t suck water back from an overflow bottle.?
    I was just looking at Skips website, last updated in 2002 ? obviously no info on the check valves.
     
  8. Phil P
    Joined: Jan 1, 2018
    Posts: 492

    Phil P
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have no specific information on that valve but there would have to be a way for the coolant or air to get Back in the system or a partial vacum would be present when the system cooled down and might cause damage.

    Phil
     
  9. jailhousebob
    Joined: Jun 18, 2009
    Posts: 887

    jailhousebob
    Member
    from Illinois

    I put a Skips relief valve on my 32 5/w last year and it works great. My orig radiator was getting like swiss cheese so i had the brass works build me a duplicate ( don't really like the walker). Like you i wanted the orig cap and filler neck ( don't really like the remote neck and dummy filler). I had brass works make my overflow tube a bit longer so i could mount the skips valve on the very bottom and run the rubber tube from the valve out the stock drain hole in the front crossmember.Now when it blows off the water just shoots down on the pavement and not all over the engine. The valve is one way and will not draw water (or air) back into the radiator.Great product !
     
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  10. OzyRodder
    Joined: Dec 11, 2012
    Posts: 307

    OzyRodder
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    Kiwi 4d likes this.
  11. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hmm interesting, so as @jailhousebob Says its a one way valve ,it just unloads and does not return from an overflow bottle. Meaning the whole system is under vacuum of sorts when it cools down until the next time you use the car.
     
  12. jailhousebob
    Joined: Jun 18, 2009
    Posts: 887

    jailhousebob
    Member
    from Illinois

    So i'm not a scientist but i have been running flatheads for 50 years. In my experience, most of the coolant loss in an early ford system with a flathead and stock type radiator is due to the over efficiency of the water pumps. At highway speeds the pumps push more water than the radiator can process. The top tank fills up and the coolant can't run through the core fast enough.As a result the water blows out of the cap and overflow. The resulting coolant loss eventually causes the car to overheat.That is why alot of the oldtimers would cut two impellers off each pump,slowing down the flow of water. With the skips relief valve, and assuming that the engine is running properly and the radiator is good, you can run a tight cap and keep the fluid level a bit low. I fill mine until i can just see water comming up to the bottom of the tank.This gives the core a bit more time to process the coolant w/o overfilling the tank. With the valve on the bottom of the overflow and a tight cap there is no water loss unless excessive heat causes enough pressure to blow the valve which rarely happens with ,again, a good running motor and good radiator.If it does blow,the vacuume that may result in the radiator tank is a non issue due to the air space in the tank.the valve works on 3 or 4 lbs of pressure so not alot of vacuume. I'm not sure that even a tight cap is 100% airtight so whatever small vaccume may occur may relieve itself . I have never opened my cap and had any sign of vacuume releasing. Works great for me !
     
  13. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    I just got my 8BA up and running. I keep waiting for the radiator to quit burping from the initial fill up. It is still burping out fluid when it is at full temp and I jump on the throttle. I have not yet installed my overflow tank so it is going on the windshield. Is this normal due to the over efficiency of the pumps? I ha v built a lot of engines and I have never had one keep burping this many cycles. And only when I am at full temp and in the throttle?
     
  14. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 282

    Doug Hines

    I should have mentioned I do not have any overheating problems. 180 deg thermostats and dual temp guages. Both stay right under 180.
     
  15. On my A ,Running a 302,I used a small cap and made the appropriate filler neck fit into my top tank.
    Then I threaded a peice of tube to take a A radiator cap that fit over the above and had it soldered to the tank top.
    Looked standard A ,to fill/check,remove the A cap,remove the working cap underneath and know one knows the difference.
    On the small cap I cut the tangs that you tighten the cap with,folded them upwards then welded a flat tab between them to fit/ remove the cap.
    A bit of fucking around but the outcome you are after.
     
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  16. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
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    Thx @Barrelnose pickup never thought about using an A filler neck on out 32. To hide the modified cap. Great idea, i think i can visualise how you did it. Any picks?
    What we came up initial was a bust , we found an old round S/S gas cap and removed the internal gas fill lock bits and the plan was to tig weld some small studs inside and bolt a 4lb cap inside . Crap not enough room to get any sort of wrench or socket in there, Plan B is to epoxy it in there with 2 pack epoxy , a bit more hillbilly than i was hoping for. Then after i had done it I decided to read the instructions as you do and it said good for 200F , oh well whats the worst that can happen . Then we had to add 5mm to the long neck filler tube to clear the top of the grill shell. And solder in a suitable over flow. Unfortunately long neck fillers are not fitted with a seal for suck back return. A small bit of inner tube To create a seal gasket and bending the locking tabs has hopefully overcome that hiccup.
     
  17. The good part about the A cap is the threaded neck sticks up above the top of the grill shell but is hidden with the cap. This allows quite a bit of room down the tube to hide the smaller filler neck plus the tab welded onto the top of the hidden cap sits directly under the underside of the A cap.
    I sold the car to a mate but will get a pic for ya hopefully later today.
    I got to say though, not my idea, but jumped all over it once I saw it done.
     
    Doug Hines likes this.
  18. 4FBAC49D-D173-46FF-848E-F98C5751EC27.jpeg D6265DA7-6679-4768-9E9E-B07EB5D01AFB.jpeg 4CE56DDA-BADF-4978-9650-2B90FE0E5571.jpeg C6819012-F8C9-4906-AB05-5C1459F0A1FA.jpeg E9B70D8C-ADC6-44CF-9B7F-97C8EFEF6FCD.jpeg The top tank is flatter across the top than an A tank, so there’s enough room for the overflow tube to be hidden under the grill shell.
    The small filler neck is fit/ soldered to the tank, then the outer threaded neck, which has a slot cut in it , just long enough from the base to clear the overflow tube of the small neck.
    I was wrong in my first post also,in this I used the threaded neck off an original A radiator, soldered to the tube with the slot in it.
    The one I made was for the fuel tank lid as the original was rooted.
    Once again, not my idea, I just saw it on a radiator on a mates car and loved the concept so roughly copied it.
     
    Doug Hines and Kiwi 4d like this.

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