Projects Well, looks like I'm a Rambler man now!

Wow! Did you guys ever have one of those days where everything just clicks? I mean the stars all line up, the clouds part and the sun comes out and, everything just goes right?

Yeah, me either.........................

I bought some carb cleaner, cleaned the plugs again and, readjusted the idle screw.
And still have the same problem...
It won't start without priming the carb. And it still won't idle after it warms up.
So it seems a carb rebuild is in order.....
So I think I'll just rebuild the whole fuel system to be on the safe side.

Oh yeah, and if that wasn't bad enough, I went to start my OTHER project car to switch them around and after I started gas started dumping out the carb! So it looks like I'll be rebuilding that one too! At least it's a newer edlebrock 650 so, it shouldn't be to hard to find a kit.

When it rains it pours I guess....

Anyway here's today's pics.

Out with the old, in with the new!



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Well I haven't given up yet!
Spent the last few weeks finding parts and ordering them.
Also been working a ton since the virus outbreak.
But going on vacation next week so I should get a bunch done then!
At least that's the plan!
So today I decided I would rebuild the carb MYSELF!
Never even cracked one open till today!
Went pretty smooth, it sure runs better now but still has that dead spot.
But it does start and idle on its own!
So the next step is to clean out the gas tank and reseal it, then take off the pump and see what's going on there. I may end up putting in a elect unit in as I can't seem to find a rebuilt one anywhere.
Speaking of parts, just want to share with you some of the company's I DID find part at!

Mike's carburetor parts
Very good place if you have any weird carburetors, they even have many online videos that show how to rebuild carbs.

Galvin's Rambler parts
Another great business that deals in AMC parts.
They're website is a little out dated, so you might just give them a call if you find any parts you need, like I did!

Anyway I'll try to keep you guys posted on any progress!


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Some pictures from today.

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I don't remember if you have already checked the fuel pump to see if it is providing enough volume, sometimes when they get weak they will not keep up with the accelerator pump shot. You might also check your dwell, and see if it is where you want it, 35 degrees works well, but there is room for some adjustment there.

 

Yeah, I've checked the pump, it was a little lite on the volume but not to bad. If I remember it was 4 or 5 ounces from 10 to 12 pumps.
I'll keep the dwel thing in mind, thanks!

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Can anyone tell me what gauge metal I need to fix the floor and rear subframe?
Need to get it soon!

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If you have or can borrow a micrometer that will tell you by measuring what's there.

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Thanks for the input.
I might just have to order a gauge online.

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A flat-head 65 American should be able to maintain 55-60 on the highway easy enough. Not much more though. Most people recollect cars that were "well worn". They were cheap used cars back in the 70s and not well maintained. Used a bit of oil, so why change it? Just keep topping it off... that kind of mentality. So no wonder that while they soldiered on (they are well built and dependable) they were in less than stellar condition!

The 65 differs from previous models in that it has a full flow filter system. That's why the filter is down on the right side rather than up top like the photos of others (the 64 someone posted). It's possible to mount the full flow filter oil pump on an earlier model, but it won't fit in the 50-55 Nash Rambler or 58-63 American due to clearance issues -- just the "big" Ramblers. The full flow pump engine block has a by-pass passage low on the pump that has to be blocked off (plate between pump and block will do it). Retain the older model bypass valve, which is in the block. Not many do this -- the partial flow filter is more than adequate for a cruiser. Plus the full flow pump is hard to find since it's a one year (the final year!) only part.

 

I wonder if these little Ramblers are pretty much the same as the early Chevy Nova's, both came with unibodies, small motors, and were cheap transportation, in their day. So I am thinking what ever you can do to a early Nova, you should be able to do the same to a Rambler.

 

In a manner of speaking, yes. The 64+ will easily take a small block and respond well to other mods. The difference is there is little aftermarket support. Control Freaks makes a front and rear suspension mod that is out of this world, will really turn it into a modern car (along with a modern power plant and tranny!) , but there is a lot you can do with the stock suspension. It really just needs good upper trunnions (what Rambler used instead of ball joints... works well, the 68-69 two seater AMX used the exact same front end), a bit stiffer springs, and good rubber bushings. It's similar to a Mustang II suspension, just has the upper trunnion instead of two ball joints (lower uses a ball joint). You can get Aerospace Component or Wilwood brakes, and Scarebird makes a couple nice yet inexpensive front disc brake upgrades (the basic is nearly half the cost of a Wilwood setup). While there is little aftermarket support, what IS available is what still sells because it works well.

 

Ok, so I finally got to pull the gas tank out, and surprise surprise, it's a mess!
After scraping with a putty knife and wire brush then, using some degreaser on the outside I found some spots where it's obviously been repaired in the past.
Around the filler neck and in the back where it looks like it got hit at some point. These were all braised in, and from what I can tell are still leaking.
So, do you think this tank is worth saving?
Can I wield these holes after I rinse out the inside of course!
How bout some pictures....


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And some one was asking about the dimensions of the tank....
It's 31.5 by 24 flange to flange.
The filler neck is offset 16.5 from the right.
I can't seem to find any replacement tanks anywhere for this thing.
Any ideas?

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Forgot one..


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The tank looks to be in overall good shape. If the leak is just at the brazes (is that even a correct word?) I'd clean and use a good fuel proof epoxy over the brazed area. I've had to do that over welds to fill pin holes (cheap wire welder... but with gas and NOT flux core!). If you don't like epoxy flow some solder over it -- no need to break out a welder! Propane torch and thin solder will work just fine, probably better on the thin metal, and will flow into holes.

 

I've heard of guys using early Mustang tanks. Plentiful and not expensive. Filler is in center though.
"The tank is made using original dimensions, measuring 32-5/8" x 24 1/2" x 7", and includes a drain plug for easy drainage."
This Covid thing messes things up, but I would call tank manufacturers/suppliers with dimensions.

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Hey thanks for the info!
Just so happens I just bought some new solder the other day!


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I'm wondering how a new tank would work out. It seems like it would be easy to cut/braze a plate over the filler, cut your filler tube off brazing it where it needs to be on new tank.
This is a 65-68 Mustang. Dimensions are close, filler is in wrong spot. The top as understand on those was the trunk bottom.

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Ok so I think I'm pretty much screwed!
Started cleaning the tank in preparation to seal it.
Poured some super clean in it yesterday, sloshed it around all day, drained it. Then put more in to sit overnight.
Came out this morning and drained that, rinsed it out a couple of times.
Looked in to check it out, and it looks like this tank was already resealed at one time!
And, of course, the old dealer is all cracked and peeling all over in the tank!

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So my question is.....
Is there ANY way I can clean this out, short of cutting it in half?
If not I may just have to go with an after market unit in my trunk.
I'm going to put my internet detective (my wife) to work looking for a replacement.

NEED HELP!

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Throw gravel in it, Jack up the rear of a car or truck, attach tank to rear wheel, start car and let the wheels turn in DRIVE at idle speed. Tumble it clean.

 

Lol!
I guess that's ONE way of doing it!

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Well there's a day I'll never get back!
Decided that the only way to get the old sealer out was to cut a giant hole in it!
I figured I didn't have anything to lose. It wasn't any good to me the way it was, so I might as well give it the old college try.
I was surprised that the old sealer just came out in two pieces ! I was sure I'd have to scrape forever.
But what was underneath really sucked!
After wire brushing the inside and outside (and some lite sanding), I started seeing all kinds of pinholes!
Plus around the base of the filler neck had been soldered and was cracking badly.
So my question once again is....
Is this tank worth saving?
I could probably solder up all the pinholes and figure out a way to fix the filler neck. But I think I would probably be chasing problems down the road.
What do you guys think?
Here's some pictures for your amusement!


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Here's the mess

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Some of the holes

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Some more....

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Oh and to ad add injury to insult,
I had to take a trip to the doctor for 6 stitches after the spring I was wire brushing (with my bench grinder) decided to grab hold and fly up and smack me right above the eye, HARD!
Instant blood everywhere, barely made it to the house to holler at my wife.
Got it to stop bleeding and took a look and, the better half decided I needed stitches.
Yes I was wearing safety glasses!
By far the worse injury I've ever had in the shop!


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Forgot the pic....


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My opinion, for what it's worth.
1) Research, write phone numbers down the gas tank manufacturers and distributors. What's critical is size (which you already know) and position/size of filler (you know that also).
2) Call, seeing what's closest. They may have one smaller capacity but you may be able to make it work, shift it over.
3) I believe the 1st gen Mustang will work. A new tank you could safely braze up a plate cover center filler, then cut hole, braze filler where it needs to be. I'm thinking if you cut hole accurately you could push filler down in about 1/4" braze around it...should make it strong.
4) The float sensor is just a variable resistor (potentiometer) which you can fix it so the factory gauge reads accurately.
5) factory tank is garbage. I've got to replace one on my '64 American.
Tank I replaced on my 58 Nash and wife's 55 Chevy and 72 GTO were nasty. Complete waste of time and money wasted trying to clean. I know guys who have gone through the gravel clean process, used the epoxy filler to coat inside, I just wouldn't trust it.
Soldering pinholes to me it's like a car people say "has a few little rust holes" in a fender, etc. How many don't you see?
Gasoline is not something I would want to chance like messing with dynamite. Same reason I don't like rubber fuel line.

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Man! You were lucky! Years ago working on a lawnmower Briggs motor with cover removed motor running I used a screwdriver to adjust carb. Boom! It hit flywheel fins, drove it right into my eye. Wife drove 90 getting me to ER. I pulled screwdriver out on the way. Xrays showed driver went into my brain (must be a part I don't use). I was blind, iris torn away.
God was looking over me. I wore a eye patch, but iris started healing itself, each day moving around until it healed! Eye center calls me "the miracle guy".
You had a close call! All the best, you should heal fine but it will take time.

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