My '55 bird is about 3 inches higher in the front. I'm not up phisicaly to remove the coil springs and replace with shorter springs. Trying to decide whether to heat the lower coil to lower it or try the clamps on eBay that pull the coils together. I want it lower in front, not higher.
If you're not up to it, try to recruit some buddies to help change the springs. Or, pay someone to do it. Question is, why does your T bird sit too high in the front. Are the rear springs sagging?
I'm not here to argue, but how high is the front. Ground to center of headlight on my 55 is 26 1/2 inches. That's on Aerostar springs, and 25 1/2 inch tire
Location? I bet there may be a member close and able to do the job correctly. Heating coils is a no no. And yes it’s been done a million times.
If I had to choose I would heat them over those hokey clamp deals. talk to some shops in your area T-bird springs are a pain , but realistically 2-3 hours labour and there installed. is the front really to high, or is the back drooping ?
The traditional method was, select 2 wood blocks of the desired height, and place them under each side of the front bumper. Step 2, using a brass blow torch, heat the coils until the bumper rests on the blocks. When cooled off, drive to the neighbor's to re-adjust the headlights, on their white garage door, after dark! That was the 50's, not recommended today.
What has changed coil springs have been heated and dropped since the 50's ? Not the best way to get the ride height you want. Like Marty Strode says take two blocks of wood or 2 jack stands and heat the coils and catch it when it drops. Let it cool and be cool. That's what the older kids said that hung out at my dads shop in the 50's. I also watched a guy just heat them up and not have anything to catch the car when it dropped and he had a real low rider. Where are you located, somebody can help you out.
Did that to a 49 Chevy, when I was in high school...looked cool lowered, but rode like a 1 ton truck!
My 57 was high in the front when I first got it. After looking at a bunch of birds in our club in St Louis, I was sure that I needed to do something with the front springs. After I moved to Oregon and spoke with a local T-Bird dealer and he convinced me to replace the rear springs. What can I say, he was right and I was wrong. It sets very level now.
Yeah I'd just heat and lower. Its an art so check around to see if anyone locally can do it. Thru the years I've probably done 40 sets. You heat the lower coil and slowly work from there, bouncing the car up and down every couple minutes until it settles exactly where you want it. Then let the springs totally cool before moving it.
This place amazes me sometimes, suggest welding a steering shaft and everyone has a shit fit about safety but want to lower a car by heating the springs and it’s the way to go.... Personally I’m more comfortable with the welded steering, I can control the welding process, the spring not so much. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I forget to tell you why the car is too high in front. The previous owner had installed a 390 4 speed and stiffer springs. I will be getting my grandson to help remove the springs and adjust the length.
I know you don't wan me to post, so I am. the clamps don't work that well. I probably have some that you can have if you want. but tyey do not work well. Something that you may check. Especially if the springs are new. Sometimes they get turned wrong (in any car). There may actually be a pocket for the spring to drop into and it the spring is turned wrong the tail will be on top of a lump instead of dropping properly into the whole, that will make one set up a bit. Please do yourself a favor and do not heat the springs. You can drop the car perfect and it will look good. Then next year it won't look good any more. the Springs will keep dropping until the coils completely close.
Doesn't the tension in the spring keep compressing the coils until the heated area cools? Blocks under the bumper will slow down the compression, but the springs will keep compressing. I would think you want the blocks higher then you want the ride height to compensate for the cool down period.
Once you take the temper out of the spring it continues to sag even after it is cooled. Every time you drive it it will sag a little more.
'Beaner's right (again!) After heating and de-tempering the coil springs, the front will drop a little each time you drive it. But that might be a 'good thing': 'Takes a croppin', and keeps on droppin'! Seriously, with the added weight of the F-E, the springs recommended above (Aerostar) would be the best solution, as they are progressively wound, and when settling to their ride height, get stiffer each increment they are compressed. (good ride height and will not tend to 'softly bottom out')
Rusty Dusty and X38 are right on. Coil springs are nothing to fool with. Have it done and save yourself a lot of woe and possibly pain. Pat
Sounds like the right thing to do, about 50-60 years ago. I bet it's fun to drive like that. (unless you took out the engine and trans and replaced them with something boring) of course, we'd need a few good pictures of the car to see if it's a decent setup to keep, or if it really needs changing.
1. Dropped spindles 2. Proper shorter coil springs 2a. On some cars....cut and drop coil pocket on A arm. 3. Cut your stock coil springs 4. Heat stock springs to drop front
Just a heads up: if you cut coils, it will make the remaining spring stiffer relative to how it was. So, lower ride, but harsher.
heated springs you can oops and go too far. clamps may be hokey, but if they break, your car just goes back to stock.
If what I found is right, a y block weighed about 625lbs, and an FE 650. With headers and an aluminum intake, you won't have much if any more weight than a stock bird. Cutting those springs will make them lower, but stiffer. Depending on your set up, and what height you want, those Aerostar progressive wound springs might be fine. And they're cheap, around $70 last time I looked. Might be worth some research. I can say I like them a lot better for ride and handling than my cut stock front springs.
Man the smart thing is to order what you think will work and pay the Man.....lts a big boy game and sometimes you have to pay the Man.
And why exactly would any of us “be the judge”, as you put it, of how he wants his car to sit. Typical, he asked a question, got a bunch of half assed advice, some good advice and now moved on to strangers should decide how he wants his car to look. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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