Technical 1965 Chevy 327 Distributor upgrade

Bosch 00012 coil made in Brazil...

 

That's a high vacuum reading , anybody remember what the old 30-30 had for vacuum ? That was about THE most popular solid cam back in the day...

 

The points set up is still good, very mechanically reliable-until they are not. It really is only a difference in technology and reliability.
Plus, as Wayne Carini pointed out in an episode of Chasing classic cars, most of the younger generation has no clue what points are or how to properly adjust them.
I myself am 40 and points were long gone by the time I was driving. So it is merely an easy upgrade that removes one less spare part to keep in the toolbox.

Sent from my XP8800 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

...or changes the spare part, from one to a different one. I keep a spare HEI module in my truck. I keep a spare set of points in my Chevy II.

 

I was having some issues with my 327 after it was completely rebuilt. We thought it was the distributor and I didn't want to mess around. I found one of the last Mallory's when the sold the company out and it works really great. I have come to the conclusion that with these older vehicles it's best to do it right the 1st time.

or

 

Still better than made in China.

 

Nothing wrong with points. I can't see how anyone would twist a set of single points to 7,000 rpm even double springing them, (premature rubbing block wear issues develop). But they are super reliable for everyday use. If your only driving 2,000 mi a year you should never have to replace them. I never ever carried a spare set of points. I did carry an allen wrench and a screwdriver though. lol. Drove home with the ground contact GONE once. I suppose the quality of points and condensers may not be up to par with Delco stuff of days gone by but for an everyday street beater they are hard to beat for reliability. And they are very easy to maintain . Simplicity at it's best. Lippy

 

With the stock cars, we just changed them a few times per season with the condenser. This went with setting the valves on the solid cams we used along with an oil & filter change.

 

I was lead to believe this is a GMC factory 30/30 cam - Vaccum is 16 inches at 1,100 rpm at idle. This 327 lacks strong low end - but really comes alive at 3,000 + but the idle at 1,100 is not very choppy - but you hear the chatter of the solid cam. This car sat in the garage for 45 years - never tagged and driven on the highway - had rings - bearings and cam build in 1970 - sourced out of a neighbor's 1965 Chevelle with low miles. This car was totalled in an accident.

 

Mike,
You were a big help in sending me pictures of your dads car with the clutch linkage when working on my 40, I thank you.
I am using a Mallory dual point distributor with no issues so far. I did get a Pertronix upgrade I may put in at some point. The GM point distributor is a good one and agree it will work well for the miles you plan to put on it. Pertronix makes a upgrade for that as well if you want to got that way. I am using an old Mallory coil as well (Voltmaster) with a ballast resistor that works good with the points. I do mount the coil vertically so the oil in it does the job of cooling it correctly.
Stay Safe,
Gray Beard

 

One of the corvette forums says 12-14" vac @900-1000 rpm for the 30-30 ,so that sounds about right ,lower the idle& you'll hear a bit of " lope"..

 

Thats debatable !!

 

Glad the pics helped - thanks for the info - I really might try an improved coil - either the Bosch 00012 listed above or a MSD - prefer the back one to match period look. I am usually a Ford engine guy and run Duraspark dist and MSD box - works great until the box quits - which is rare. And keep the points. Looking for better - quicker starting and idle in the 327. But current is OK. My next improvement project is the starter. It is factory original - but I am using a single pole Ford starter solenoid to energize it. When I have run the '39 about 30 mins and got it really warmed up - it can be hard to crank back up - until it cools down some. Might try an insolutated blanket cover first - then go to gear-reduction Powermaster starter. I am not sure of flywheel tooth count - but looks like the hipo replacements will work with both flywheels.

 

next time i run the '39 - I will lower down the idle and test it. Cam does not have strong low end - the little higher idle helps at stop signs and traffic light that are up hill.

 

I want to tell you guy's a Short Story,
When I was Drag racing back in the day, my Race Car had a L-88 (427)
in a 64 Chevelle which I would Come off the line at 8500 rpm!

Running a Dual Point Tack Drive GM Dist.
and when I sold the Race Car the Only thing I took was
the Dist which I put in my 327/300 hp in the Car in my avatar

Just my 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

I got a brand new AC DELCO starter and have had no problems. The bell housing I am running takes the nose type starter. Not sure if they make a mini for that application but I did not research it. 153 and 168 tooth flywheels. I am running the larger flywheel with a 168 tooth.
Coils: 40,000 Volt should help, good name brand and most will come in black if you look. I picked up a Pertronix coil as well in black if and when I change to pointless. I have my timing set @ 12deg at idle and 31Deg at 3000 rpm with a mostly stock 350 with a tri-power and block hugger headers.

 

vacuum for a 30-30 we had in a 327 was about 12-14 at 900 also-097 was about the same on 57 fuely-steady 14 at 800 rpm.097 has a bit more low end from my experience as well. Note that the factory setting for timing said 8 degrees before tdc--needed 12-14 before to run right and idle right as well. Both had factory mech advance dual point distributors.

 

I would suggest using the Bosch Blue # 00012 coil, best and have never seen a bad one....

https://www.ebay.com/p/Bosch-9-220-0...2485426&chn=ps
__________________
If it Makes Spark, we do it !!!!
www.bubbasignition.com
[email protected]

A quote from a Jim Linder post on Ford Barn, April 29, 2019. I'll continue to put my faith in what Bubba says. JMO

 

Bosch blue become black with a little paint.

 

I've had coil issues with my 327. I see the Bosch Blue list w/3.3 ohms or 3.4 ohms. Does this matter? I have small-body HEI by Dave --> https://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/
I'm looking for a reliable coil. Are all of the Bosch Blue coils the same?
Thanks

 

Google Bosch 00012 ignition coil and click on “images”, three different Bosch coils will show. The blue, a black and one with a plain metal finish so if they all have the 3 ohm rating like the blue coil they are interchangeable.
But, you run an HEI and if I’m not mistaken that uses a 1 ohm coil. I’m not much on electricals but no doubt Dave can give you the correct information.

 

I'm not sure about Bosch but I run a resisted coil and feed it a full a 12 volts... If it's not a resisted coil you need a a restrictor wire that will feed the coil 8-9 volts, and then run a wire from the starter to the coil to feed it a full 12 volts when cranking... Not sure if that helps anything

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I might be crazy but I think you should put more timing in it yet... 35-36 degrees all in... You say mostly stock which to me means it's not going to spin high enough to need the timing that low... I think you would gain more than you think .. obviously I'm not there and don't know the motor but 31* to me isn't enough

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What I have found over the years is, give the motor what it wants. Given that timing marks are reference points and the variance in manual advance and aftermarket harmonic balancer's, I like to get it where it works, starts and drives well. Yes mostly stock with a Mallory dual point and old Mallory coil, Tri Power and block hugger headers, stock cam and 8.5 to 1 comp.

 

I don't know how you Guy's are doing your Timing
but it all goes to what the Dist. has.
My GM dual point Dist came with a 12 degree in it
so you Double it & it comes to 24 & you put The rest
On the Damper which is 14 degree's at idle
Most Chevy's like to Run at 38 degree's Timing!

Just m y 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

Every car and engine I ever had ran it's best at 37-8* of total timing. We even ran our 75% nitro GMC 6 there. 3-4 * more never showed any more power on a dyno. I've run 3-4 less on something that pings but it was never mine...

 

No place to plug in a scan tool?

 

And that would be without vacuum advance. Very misunderstood subject.

 

I reset the idle to 900 rpm. The 12-14 vacuum was spot on. I put a MSD Blaster 2 coil on - seemed to help vs stock coil, and I backed off the timing just a little. Need to buy a good timing light . Mine quit about 10 years ago. Will watch ebay for dwell meter and timing light.