Technical What tools am I looking for after pulling head studs for screw in studs?

There used to be a tool set, after the head studs were pulled, it would align the drill into the stud hole to be tapped for a screw in stud. There was also a tool with a pilot you could set up in the drill press and shave/flatten the area so the screw in stud would sit flush.

Did I dream this, or are my googling skills sucking today?

 

A stud remover. Look at Speedway Motors or Summit. Dual purpose for pulling and starting tap.

 

Look up Cylinder head rocker stud extractor/remover
Here’s a couple
http://bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/cylinderhdtooling/sp2_3.php

https://wheelwell.com/shop/comp-cam...-arm-stud-remover-and-tap-alignment-kit--5306

 

SBC Rocker arm studs?

 

Yes, might of should have mentioned that

 

Once you get the studs out you need to trim the boss down. I don't remember for sure how far, it's been years, but 3/8 or 1/2 inch seems right. It is best done on a guide and seat machine with an air float table. A milling machine would be my next choice.

 

With a screen name like @Budget36 it sounds like you prefer to do things on the cheap and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. What you need is a piece of 1” square stock, center punch holes 1.398 apart and drill a 3/8” hole, with the other one drilled 7/16”. You can use the nibs on a dial caliper to locate the center punch marks or use a mill if you have access to one.
Slip the tapping block on a pair of studs, use a stack of hardened washers or old rocker balls and pull one stud. Turn the block around and use the 7/16 hole to keep your tap square, finish that thread and screw in the stud, then repeat the process for the second stud. Don’t tighten the tapping block down with a nut on the stud when you are tapping, let it float, piloting on the stud will keep it nice and square.
The stud pictured has a raised ring around it that you snug up against the head casting. Other than some thread sealer that’s it, and the studs are found on eBay for a reasonable amount.
I wouldn’t use these studs with a big cam and heavy valve springs, I’d step up to 7/16” studs for that, but on the typical street car where you get on it once in a while these have never given me a problem.

 

That is all I need there for these heads, the cam will just be .460/.480, hyd roller, and not much more springs than what the factory had.

I am a bit on the, say...tight side...

Thanks!

 

You can get the same tool as that Comp Cams tool from ProForm for $20...unless you like paying Comp Scams for their name on the box.
https://www.competitionproducts.com...gnment-Kit/productinfo/PFM66783/#.XrvL4daSm70

If you decide on the hex head style for holding down guideplates, the amount of height to mill off the stud boss is equal to the thickness of the hex on the stud plus the thickness of the guideplate.

 

i use a couple 1/2 inch nuts and a washer to pull the studs with a nut then a cutter that lowers the boss height and stops at the correct depth then use a small chisel to break off the remaining part of the boss then use the proform tool to align the tap this is very eazy to do with a 1/2 drill on your bench while you are at it you may want to get the cutter to trim the valve guides to use pc seals on the valves i do not use the proform tool to remove the studs because they tend to beat up the tool

 

post number two i am pretty sure the crane cams part number foe the stud boss mill is 99023-1

 

Duh yes you should have. That had everyone scratching their ass trying to figure that out

 

Grainger May have it as well. If you have a friend/acquaintance that builds engines or has a machine shop.

 

If that's the case you could pin them. Drill a 1/8 hole through the boss and the edge of the stud for a roll pin.

 

Every now and then when I am looking for something else, I see a stud pin kit that I've had for ever.

 

Did you wash your figure yet?

 

Have you ever tried to do that on your bench? I've heard of that, looked at trying to drill a hole 90 to it...if you can do it, you're a better man thatn I am. The head might be easy eough, what happens to the tiny bit when you hit the stud just a tad off center?

Only reason I am saying this, and I do appreciate your comments, but seems like you may be re-speaking what you have heard about and not actually done.

Otherwise, please show me your preocess in your garage/shop, not a YouTube videao of a place with high $$ tooling.

Thanks

 

I think a drill and pin job is a problem(s) waiting to happen.

 

Yes, I've done a few hundred, on the bench. It's not that hard. You do not want to hit the stud in the center. That weakens the stud. I just hit the side of the stud enough to lock it in place. And tip the drill slightly to clear the valve cover rail. No that hard......

 

pinned a few sets many years ago-don't recall it being a big issue-my 57 Fuely had a set that was pinned back when it was running as a drag car in the late 50's

 

Well, any chance you could do a "how to"?

The stud is harder than the iron head, so say I take a 1/8th bit off center of the stud. Pick your point how far off, how to I keep that small bit from wandering?

Not ever doing it before, and knowing what a small bit would do, I've a tough time visualizing how I can do it at home.

Thanks

Edit:

I have several old heads I could try your method on, and understand just locking the pin in place as you describe, but please post a "how to" for me to practice with.

 

Did you do it, or have it done? Do you recall how it was done?

Thanks

 

Me and a friend did it--can't recall much but it wasn't anything too hard as I recall--I'll think on it

 

I'm not going to be at the shop until Saturday. Then I'll see what I can do.