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Oldsmobile 303 build questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Buster Brown 1, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. Buster Brown 1
    Joined: Nov 7, 2009
    Posts: 12

    Buster Brown 1
    Member
    from Greeley

    I have a '50 303 that was seized (only #5) in the mid 60's with only 24,000 miles on it. This weekend, I took the bearing caps off, and split the pistons to get the crank out with the hydro, separated the crank and trans, and put the crank back in.
    Ray Stilwell offered to rebuild it for me, and that's an offer I couldn't refuse.
    I have an adapter to run what I think is a Cad-LaSalle trans.
    It's going into a '27 T coupe, which, naturally, I want to make as impressive as I can.

    The trans that I have has been "modified about 30 years ago" so I'm not positive of what I have. I can't upload pictures right now, but if anyone has pictures of an Olds trans next to the LaSalle trans, I think it would help out a bit with the identification. It's been shortened, and has the shifter linkage arms mounted about 2.5 or 3 inches from the side.

    I was thinking of having it bored to a larger size. I've read enough that boring it an 1/8th inch would give me 324 inches, and would allow me to use stock 324 pistons. If I bore it out wider, would I be able to use other stock pistons?

    I have a selection of intakes to choose from: 2x2, 2x4, 3x2, 4x2. The 3x2 and 4x2 are both Edelbrocks, and the 2x4 is a mystery brand. From my memory, the only casting in it is "2000-1", but it's been a few weeks since I've seen it. Does anyone have any information on this manifold?
    Does anyone have any experience that would compare the 3x2 and 4x2 setups? I will be driving this on the street, and probably only make a few passes down the strip. There's one more carb to tune and more linkage, but are there any real pros or cons to either?

    I have an adapter to mount the starter on the opposite side to make room for steering. I plan on running my steering through the cowl with a Ross box, so is there any real reason to use this besides looks? Should I even bother using it?

    I'm looking for an oil pan to replace the one I have. Sometime, someone jacked the car up and caved in the bottom quite a bit, and for the past 15 years or so, the engine has been sitting on a dolly. I figure it could be repaired, but for the time and money, I feel like I could afford a pan in a more reasonable condition. eBay hasn't had any for sale lately. Do any of you?

    Sometime by the end of the week, I should have my digital camera back so I'll take pictures of what I have and post them, because I imagine it will help with some of my questions. Thanks in advance to anyone that can help. :)
     
    G31270Oldsmobile1938 likes this.
  2. ChassisResearchKid
    Joined: Feb 18, 2006
    Posts: 765

    ChassisResearchKid
    Member
    from Michigan

    You need to talk to goatroper02, He'll set you straight.
     
    Ricco39ford likes this.
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Goatroaper for engine internals.

    Carbs; 3x2 is the easiest to get 100% perfect as a progressive setup. 4x2 is cooler looking but more work to get it right and stay right, but will not get the mileage of a tri power. The 2x2 is very cool and likely will stay in tune better than a 4x2 IMO. 2x4 is rarely seen anymore if you want to be different.

    Trans;
    The 50 Olds one year was a LaSalle based trans with an Olds short tail. It's the one on the right.

    The other LaSalles and Cad trans were longer like the middle pic of a topshift version.

    The other Olds trans was a Selector shift, 6 bolt top tin cover, and has a different bell to make it fit. The bell pattern is symetrical on that, but the 50 Olds as well as Cad/LaS is a offset staggered trans bell pattern.
     

    Attached Files:

    G31270Oldsmobile1938 likes this.
  4. Leadsled51
    Joined: Dec 21, 2001
    Posts: 333

    Leadsled51
    Member

    G31270Oldsmobile1938 likes this.

  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Forgot to mention that 303 intakes differ from 324 because the intake port is much larger on the 324.

    So you should choose your intake first and see if it is 303 or not, just in case you decide on the bigger 324 heads. They can be swapped around by port match grinding and in cases like the 2x2 Edmunds going on 324 heads, you'd need to make adapter plates because the manifold does not cover the 324 head port enough at the widest part of the manifold.
     
    G31270Oldsmobile1938 likes this.
  6. Buster Brown 1
    Joined: Nov 7, 2009
    Posts: 12

    Buster Brown 1
    Member
    from Greeley

    I've been reading a few (read: lots) of old olds threads, and it seems like Goatroaper, BlownOlds and Don Wow are the ranking people to ask about this stuff.
    For carburetion, I'm most likely going to stick with the 4x2, mostly for the cool factor. I'm not concerned with mileage, but more with power and reliability.
    Judging by the pictures you provided, I'm thinking my trans is an Olds, except that it's been shortened and converted to accept early Ford torque tubes.
    I'm sticking with my 303 heads, but from what I'm reading, I can use 1952+ rocker arms, (preferably '57-'58), to go from 1.5 to 1.8:1. Apparently, that's the hop up technique to get the feel of a racier cam, without changing cams.
    I am looking into using a 394 oil filter adapter, so I can use screw on types.
    I'm reading into boring, and 1/8" bore brings me to 324. That bore should allow me to use stock 324 pistons. I saw at one point yesterday, someone mentioned being able to bore their 324 to X amount, and using stock Ford XXX pistons. I haven't found that post yet today, or those exact numbers, X and XXX, but it caught my interest.
    Do you think I could bore my 303 out 1/8" + X and still use those Ford XXX pistons?
     
  7. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,562

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    The pistons guys use in 324s that have been bored out to an even four inch bore come from a Ford 352. You'd have to bore your 303 .250 over to use them, and I wouldn't bet money on it working out for you. Lots of 303s were bored out to 324 without incident, though.
     
  8. Buster Brown 1
    Joined: Nov 7, 2009
    Posts: 12

    Buster Brown 1
    Member
    from Greeley

    Alright, thanks. I'm not in a rush to get anything physically done yet. I'm just trying to get an idea of what is possible, what I can afford, and what won't be overkill for what I'm trying to build. Thanks, though.
     
  9. I was thinking of having it bored to a larger size. I've read enough that boring it an 1/8th inch would give me 324 inches, and would allow me to use stock 324 pistons. If I bore it out wider, would I be able to use other stock pistons?

    You could bore it to out to 4 inches and use stock 1957 371 pistons. Which I believe would give up a 345 CI motor. The block should be able to stand it and not run 250 degrees on a cold winter day.
     
  10. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,562

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    That would be a .250 overbore on a 303; if he wants/needs the cubes that bad, he might better start with a 324 block.
     
  11. Bobert
    Joined: Feb 21, 2005
    Posts: 820

    Bobert
    Member Emeritus

    The 303 blocks may have safely gone way over bore when new but they corrode from the water jacket side over the years resulting in the possibility of pin holes in the bores.
     
  12. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,389

    Paul
    Editor

    I have heard the 283 piston is similar enough to the 324, bore, pin height etc. to work, although pin diameters will need some adjusting

    can anybody confirm or deny?
     
  13. vetteson
    Joined: Oct 7, 2010
    Posts: 301

    vetteson
    Member

    So I have seen several threads about converting 1.5 rockers in '51 and earlier Olds engines to '52 and somewhat later Olds engines, but not a lot of detail. So exactly what needs to be done? Rocker shafts, rockers, lifters, push rods? I am aware that all 303 '51 to '53 heads are the same, however, there are different part numbers for the cam, valve spring, lifter, rocker and push rods..
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2020

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