Technical Unfolding the "hem"? on a trunk lid

I wasn't sure of the correct terminology, hope I was close. I have a 53 Studebaker trunk lid that is missing it's hinge mounts, totally gone. I have a later model Hawk trunk lid that I liberated the inner panel from that has repairable hinge mounts.

My question is after drilling out the spot welds so you can unfold the "hem" back and remove the original inner panel is there any trick tool or technique to use to make the job reasonable easy?
Since pictures always make things clearer (I hope) here are shots of both lids.

 

I've used the grind the edge method until the outer skin, inner structure and the "hem" separate.

 

^^^ I do that also but to preserve the "hem" you would need to pry it open. Then replace the piece you want and refold it back then re spot weld.

 

For what you're doing maybe work your way along with a small chisel until it folds back.
Myself, I'd avoid having to do that (because im impatient) and i'd see if I could cut the patch piece out, then place it over the keeper and cut that to match and weld it in without messing with that folded lip

 

I've done it a couple times when I wanted to save the outer skin, and was fixing what it was crimped to. I used some thin chisels I bought especially for it from Steck, https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/steck-right-angle-seam-buster-20016 and https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/steck-seam-buster-20015 , but places autobody places will have them but its still a slow and frustrating since even though the spot welds are drilled out, its still crimped, and easy to distort the outer.

they also have one that you can use with an air hammer, but doesn't seem like it would work for the backside of a door hem, more for sandwiched panels it looks like.
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/steck-super-seam-buster-20017

 

Years ago VW had a special tool for unfolding the hem flange on the Beetle cowl/door pillar seam. As I recall it was used with an air chisel gun. Probably unobtainium these days.

I like @Gearhead Graphics ideas......

Ray

 

run a DA sander along the edge, this will take a tiny bit of metal off so the panel will bend there and only there so it doesn't distort the outer panel.

 

I would probably try it this way too. I have tried to unfold some door skins before and it always did some damage to the outer skin that needed further work.

 

If you are only using the outer skin, locate all of the spot welds, cut those loose, and cut the inner structure down so you can remove it in convenient sized pieces. Then make a plan to insert the replacement structure back in place, with the least amount of messing with the flange, or hem. I have 2 Cougar doors I have to make one from, patience will be your friend.

 

You may find it easier to locate all of the spot welds by chopping the inner structure up first, and finding where it hangs up. You may also find it easier to insert the replacement by modifying it somewhat.

 

Are you attempting to replace the entire inner panel or just the corners w/hinge mount ?

 

This is what I have seen my friends do. I never had to replace a skin, myself.

 

VWs and Porsche had a cool tool to remove the roof/qtr hem
couldn't find a pic to help you
I have removed a few door skins in order to fix them, then reinstall the same skin
it can be tedious
I drilled out any spotwelds first, then modified a chisel to get under the edge and started lifting it, there will be some distortion. the metal stretches around the hem. Some basic hammer and dolly work will fix this, it can also remove itself as it is re-hammerd back on. the key is being patient.

 

or shape you one like these "seam busters", great tools. You would probably need to shorten the end to fit better

the straighter ones would need a notch ground into the side to allow the fold to slide through. (modified curved section for the top chisel)

 

Okay guys. Put down the hammer and chisel, don't grind the edge. After lunch I'll take a photo of a tool I made years ago to unfold the edge. I took a pair of channel locks and for lack of better words welded a Tooth on it. I just set the beveled edge at the inner edge and squeeze, up comes the flange. It don't get distorted at all and you have to edge weld things back together. Few people can edge weld with acceptable results. I'll be back

 

Left out a word. You DON'T have to edge weld.

 

MP&C posted a tool on a Garage Journal page and it could be somewhere in its 170+ pages. Here is a copy of another one of his posts showing the tool down this page aways. It is a chisel edge added to modified vise grip to lift the seam and be able to salvage the skin. This is a brilliant tool.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/trunk-lid-rust-at-folded-seam.4979/

 

So here it is. To simple for words. Built in the early 70's and still use it often.

Ya, it's kind of a Charlie Brown kind of deal and has been modified several times pending seam on hand. The tooth gets filed now and then so it will part the edge and slide under the fold. After that it's just tip a little and squeeze.



Didn't photograph well but the seam is standing up. And who don't have an old pair of Channel Locks laying around?

 

Vtx, Pist n broke and patterg seem to have your solution. Vice grip or channel locks are your friend.

Pat

 

And you did not patent the tool. You could have been rich

 

here is supposed to be the store bought ones

and a this, scroll down a few to see another version of pist-n-Brokes method
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ols-and-equipment.235784/page-21#post-5987467

 

Thanks for sharing that Pist-N-Broke and Patterg2003. Between those two I can fashion a tool to work on my doors with.
I was figuring on the modified chisel idea or creating a chisel like tool to do it .

 

Similar to Pist-n-Broke. I downloaded these pics for example of a door skin popper but havent made my own yet.

I think youll damage the outer skin quite a bit by the time you get it off. Anyway to accomplish this without splitting the inner and outer.

 

@Pist-n-Broke and @patterg2003 and@INDYJPS THANK YOU, I am a lucky SOB to participate in a group that has so much knowledge!! I have many of the spot welds drilled and used a chisel to just raise a couple of areas but I wasn't going to do much until I came back and checked this thread. Going to the shop now, I am sure I can find something in the shop to modify to make a similar tool.

 

I have seen tools for this for sale (maybe Eastwood) but these homemade tools look pretty good.

 

I've gotten one side of the trunk lid partially "lifted", I'll go around all sides and then bend it up some more. I dug through a box of junk pliers that my wife had (she does Metal Sculpture and has lots of "stuff"), and in another container I found an oblong hole punch, maybe used on harness?? and cut one side of it to use to lift the seam/lip. I found a junk chisel and modified it too, the only real problem was the spot welds didn't drill cleanly and I had to chisel around some of them. You guys are lifesavers !!

 

Looks like things are moving along. If you notice the extended lower jaw on mine there is a reason for that. If your pliers ever slip off the edge the handles snap together and when your not wearing heavy gloves you end up with a Dang Nice blood blister on your finger. The extended lower jaw seemed to stop that.

 

Thanks to all for posting the modified pliers. I have a ton of spare channelocks and a few extra vice grips, and will have a couple new tools in the morning.