I have most of the parts I need for a 327 sbc engine build. 1963 block and crank, 10 to 1 flat top pistons with four eyebrow depressions, 327 rods, L-79 camshaft. 350 hp aluminum intake. What I am wondering about is what cylinder heads are best for this combo? I have a set of 882 castings but heard 462s are better. Any and all advice is appreciated. The engine will be connected to a Muncie 4 speed and will go in a mid 60’s A car with a 4:10 rear gear.
Check the classified, someone has a fresh set of 461's or 462's, weren't the 882 a smog era head, maybe even 75cc chambers? I might be confusing them with something else. EDIT: Check out this older article: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-9904-race-car-engine-cylinder-head/
Does it have to be a 60's era factory head casting for some reason like a visual inspection or to be "era correct", or are you open to something that performs better?? You don't want the 882's, they are open chamber(76cc+) smogger mid 1970's design. They will turn your approximately 10:1 compression flat tops engine(based on the stock 62-64 cc chamber volume) into an 8.6:1 compression turd.
For what you'll have in a set of resurrected 462 heads, you are getting close to the cost of new aluminum or a good set of new steel heads. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dart...ck-Chevy-Super-Stock-Head-Complete,34612.html
The 350hp cam runs best with 11to1 compression. Otherwise it's dead off idle. Go with the smallest chamber possible. I like 461 or 462 heads angle cut .0625 and flat milled .020. If they are cut for 2.02 and 1.6 valves they come out to around 53cc.
There are aftermarket Vortec heads that will accept your manifold. Not period correct, but you indicated that was not a consideration.
My experience with heads is you will probably have as much in rebuilding those heads as buying a set rebuilt or a new set of aluminum heads. There is a guy in Winchester Va. you can look up on Facebook that does nothing but refurbish SBC heads for a really good price. Does it as a hobby. Used to work for a machine shop and will take your heads in exchange. You want to stick with the early small chamber ones to keep the compression up. All my opinion of course.
ProMaxx 183cc Maxx series is probably your best fit in aluminum on a budget, $932/pr set up for the hydraulic flat tappet cam. Flo-Tek 180cc is another choice, about $875/pr at Speedway Motors, don't flow as good as ProMaxx tho'. In iron, the EQ 350H is probably the best value. Vortec style ports and combustion chamber but still takes old school intake manifold bolt pattern. i would not waste money rebuilding old "hump" heads if performance is your goal, cost just isn't worth it anymore if your not a purist.
Back in the 60s t had a 300hp car with about the same setup. Below 3,000 it was about the same as stock but from 3,000 to 6,000 it really came to life. It did have 461 heads.
I always thought the 461 was the ticket. Nowadays, you have so many options , although money out weighs desire sometimes.
I see people post this all the time, but I don't think it's accurate. Just shop around and you can find good deals on original heads. I picked up a pair of 461 heads last year at LARS for considerably less than 1 of those heads. Already rebuilt. And that isn't so unusual, just watch the ads for some time and you'll find them quite often.
I wouldn't recommend this head to anyone...flow is just awful considering the price you pay for them.....basically the same flow numbers as "88s" or "624" smogger heads. Really dismal exhaust port flow for a aftermarket head, and the intake side isn't much to look at either. A stone stock 305 Vortec "059" casting flows better. For the same price you could have an aluminum head that has 100 HP better potential right out of the box with no porting or polishing.
But that's just it, you have to hunt and wait for a deal. Can't just walk out and find it today or tomorrow guaranteed If you were to start with a pair of used up castings that need a full rebuild then you're quickly going to get into the price area of better flowing new stuff. While it might be off-topic for this discussion, there is a known solid quality import head casting you can get bare for $166 each....but it is 198-200 cc intake port volume, too big for a 327 unless you plan to cam it up and run it to 7500+ rpm frequently. It would/could be a 500+ hp 327 head. There are guys who won't like the fact it is an import head too, but it is the same casting Air Flow Research is using for their new as-cast, no CNC porting "Enforcer" head line-up. They are a clone of the Dart Pro-1 Platinum 200cc. A guy who can do his own clearance checking, set-up, and valve lapping can get into a set of these castings for under $600 complete, with all quality components.
Isn't that true of just about everything involved with traditional hot rods? No guarantee's that you can just walk out and find anything today or tomorrow.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/pts/d/lake-elmo-291-camelbacks-angle-milled/7102252816.html These might make you a good set. I like 461s and 462s, but chevy made lots of good iron heads in the 60s. You might lose a little on top end by not having the big valves, but it won't be very noticeable.
Sure, they might be viable. There is the risk of the sellers assessment of " seats and guides excellent condition" being off base....I see 50 year old stock guides, hard to believe they would be in usable shape after being run as a race head. Any buyer had really better know what to check before buying., could end up costing him another $400+ for hard seats, new valveguides, and a valve job and maybe surfacing and we already know you've got to buy valves, seals, springs, retainers, locks. Since the OP has said traditional looks are not a factor, these heads may not be the best fit for him. If he values power more than looks, they definitely aren't.
That is a correct assumption folks. Performance is more critical than looks. I just want to stay with the 327 and the L-79 cam based on an engine I had a long time ago. Flat top 10 to 1 pistons are a concession to today’s fuel. What I get out of reading this a few times is an aftermarket performance head may make more sense, all ready to bolt on, and the most cost effective in the long run. I really appreciate the comments and advice. Always willing to listen to more! Thanks
^^^Like Budget36 said, check the classifieds here for a ready to go, pair of double hump heads^^^. If you care to check out the Seattle area Craig's List, there is a pair for a REALLY good price, ready to go also. If you know of any roundy-round racers, they are always changing engine combinations, so look into that. Personally, I have new and used 327 parts coming out of every bodily orifice, so if you're truly serious, I may be able to help you out. Shipping costs tend add to the prices significantly however. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Not to hijack the thread but do you happen to have any standard/standard small journal forged 327 cranks available? Preferably one that hasn’t been in a bodily orifice
Sorry, the only Std/Std, forged, 327 crank I have is in a complete rotating assembly, that someone else here on the HAMB is interested in. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I bought a set of heads like that once, already redone still had die in the valve pockets. Found out after-the-fact, several guides were in crooked and 2 stainless valves bent. My 400.00 score ( so I thought) cost me another 300.00 to fix. Total, 700.00. Cost of aluminum heads 879.00. I don’t see the point. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Really? You don't see the point of paying $180 less for actual vintage heads? You do realize this is a traditional hot rod forum, right? WTF, might as well go with an LS than. Besides, so your deal turned out not so good, so every deal will turn out not so good? Good logic there.
Yep really! Paying 180.00 for vintage heads and putting 600.00 in them to make them work well doesn’t make sense to me. I suppose you meant to say”LS then” not than. Your grammar is about as good as your math. That’s my point. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I tell ya, guy has a set of fresh 461's in the classifieds if you want to be "period" correct. But I'm a dummy, I have near 500 into my kids iron heads, not to add up the hours I spent with the diegrinder,
Thought about running the Trick Flow aluminum double humps? Obviously there are better heads but there are better cams too so why not keep it somewhat 60's appearing... They look the part and have some nice features. Probably into it for the same as what a set of not destroyed 461's freshened up would run you.
Paid less than 50bucks for a pair of 462s from a pick a part. Our local one man gang machine shop rebuilt em. Hardened exhaust seats, new guides, stock style valves, springs and hardware. Cleaned and resurfaced. $350. 30k trouble free miles so far. But I’m just a cruiser.
I actually have the 883 heads on my car the OP speaks of. Not the best heads to use but I’m wasn’t looking for big performance just a solid set of dependable heads. I have three other sets of iron heads and that’s all I would probably use. I was just saying, for the money vs product it’s hard to beat these aluminum aftermarket heads. Like I originally said. Just my opinion. Trying to help someone out. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm curious as to why you feel you need it to be "standard/standard"?? If you know anything about crank grinding you'll know it isn't any weaker even if .040/.040" undersize. Hell, they used to weld up one side of the journal, then regrind more than .100" offset to make racing stroker cranks back in the day....or take a large journal crank and offset grind the rod journals down to small journal size to make a stroker, and that takes more than .080' off one side of the journal and doesn't negatively impact strength. Never figured why some guys are so phobic about reground cranks. Usually when you question them on it, you find it just comes down to "voodoo" and lack of knowledge of the facts.
The Jalopy Journal
