I’ve really appreciated all of the responses to my initial post, particularly the pictures. Even though I’m sure some of you may have been face palming my questions (and thinking...oh goodness no...do not do that!), I appreciate the respectful responses as a newcomer to the HAMB. Admittedly, I may have been overly influenced growing up in the 80’s (though born early-70’s), I realize this could be the only street rod I ever get to build and want to do it well and expect to have it the rest of my life. Thank you.
You can get those door skins and door inners and pretty much the entire bottom section of the 34 in repo patch panels. Almost the entire bottom 6 inches or so of my 34 are all repo patch and replacement panels. For some inspiration: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-40-picture-thread-1933-1934.487172/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/33-doll-build-page.1188043/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/choprods-latest-chop-34-ford-sedan.200941/
Leave the body stock except for chopping the top...that is Ok as long as it's not too radical. Also, do not do a 1 piece hood top. They are a real pain to work on your engine with. I know 1st hand. I have one on my Model A Coupe I built in the 80's and wish I woulda stuck with a stock folding design.
You confuse me. You start by saying "1. I am building this car for myself with no plans to ever sell it...." then you ask a lot of questions about ruining the value of the car. What difference does it make if you are truly building it for yourself and not planning to sell it. Do NOT build a car to suit others, you only need to suit yourself. Pleasing others is how projects stall because you don't have the passion to work on the car if you are building somebody else's idea of a car. Do what you want. Please yourself. Do what you like. It's your money and it's your car, build it with your ideas. Do a lot of research, look at a lot of pictures and see what really sticks with you (good and bad). Start the actual build after deciding on what you really want. In the research phase you can at least start on things like the rust repair so when your mind is made up you can dive right into the build. JMO, SPark
Well, sorry for the confusion. I find (for myself) that gathering the perspectives of others helps to shape my own. Pictures are good yes, though I also like to know the thoughts of other people as well. I know there’s a wealth of experience on the H.A.M.B., tons of outstanding hot rods completed, and many folks willing to share perspective. To be sure, after I’ve gathered perspectives that shape my own, I’ll build the car I want to build. But since I didn’t live in the 30’s, 40’s, 50’s, or even 60’s I don’t have a direct context for those eras...though I do respect tradition of those eras. Hopefully this helps with the confusion and adds insight on why I’m asking questions before tearing into the project. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Verified matching numbers on the tranny and frame rail...so that was pretty cool. Frame rail serial number by the steering box is getting a little hard to see for the first star and the 1. I know correct font stamps can be purchased, but is that really acceptable to restamp the same number? Also, somebody scabbed a wooden box (purpose, battery?) onto the original firewall and cut the firewall out to make it fit. I’m leaning toward putting a flathead motor back in so I can keep the number matching tranny. Problem is, the new firewalls I am finding don’t look like the original with the stamped impressions. Anyone know of a good source for a new one, or would I be better off just looking for one that was taken out from another car? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yowser! That was a hack job wasn't it! Someone probably has a rusty cowl and firewall laying around or maybe a good metal man can reproduce that section. Dave
As stated, somebody has a chunk of firewall to fix that somewhere. But even if you can't find one, a piece of flat metal as a patch would look better than a new high zoot firewall. All respect to Steve's comments about building the car "for you", I still think building a car that many other people also like will give you a better sense of accomplishment when you are done. If you go to a show later and everyone thinks your car is a mis-match and goofy looking, you will be sad. Then driving the car won't be any fun.
Two of my children working on the car tonight. Getting them involved to know what this kind of project takes and to gain a respect for the tradition. Made the whole family watch another two episodes of “America Icon - Hot Rod”. I’m considering it part of their US history education since school got cancelled with COVID-19. Anyway, left fender and floor board are off. Frame rail just below the door is in pretty tough shape with some rust through the frame. I know the passenger side is even worse. Need to look into my options for repair/replace that still keeps my title valid. Open to thoughts on this if you have any... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It will look better once it is cleaned and sand blasted. Please tell me your not going to street rod it. It's old, it has history. It should drive, smell and feel like an old car. And that doesn't mean it has to be slow, crude or unsafe.
It will become a Hot Rod and driven. I don’t see the point in building a car just to let it sit. This car has been sitting since 1971...long overdue to be back on the road again. Drop front axle and full fendered. A little torn on engine choice at the moment. Right now concerned on how I keep the frame. I’ll post pics of the other side...it’s in pretty bad shape. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I cannot tell if your entire frame is pitted that bad, or if its just sections of rusted areas. You need to separate that body (align your door gaps 1st and then brace it with tubing before you remove it) and access the quality of your frame. A. If the entire frame is as bad as that section you show in the picture, I suggest to replace the frame rails because it will be way less work. You can get stamped rails with repo crossmembers and build your frame from there way cheaper than you can get a built frame. You live in Louisiana (not California), so I imagine that to get it tagged as the original will be pretty easy if you just stamp the number back in the frame after repair. If you go this route, make sure you destroy the section of your old frame that has the numbers that match your title. B. If its only rusted in small sections, than I suggest just repairing your frame one section at a time and boxing the rails. Make sure you keep it square. C. If you want to mini-tub it, you'll also have to change the rear kick-up of your frame and the inner sub rails of the body, so this would be the correct time to do so. Also, think about what you want for brakes. I switched my rear end to disc brakes and now the calipers are too close to the frame and the caliper bolts rub against my frame when the suspension compresses as I take a corner, and thus I plan to switch it back to drum brakes. D. For the other body modifications and chop, I suggest that you make the car "Go and Whoa" before doing all of the cosmetic alterations. Then I suggest that you perform the REQUIRED body modifications such as rust repair and structural integrity. I replaced all of my inner body wood with steel tubing and it was a lot of work, and I'm still not done with it! You don't have to replace the wood for steel, but you do have make it structurally sound. For my Chop, its 2 1/2 inches out of the front and 2 inches out of the back, and I have to really lean forward just to see stop lights. That sedan posted with the 4" chop is probably a pain to actually drive. It gets really old leaning over your steering wheel just to be able to drive around town. E. Getting your fenders, inner fenders, running boards, gas tank cover is a LOT of work! You'll be surprised at just how much work it takes to get these correct. I still have to work over my front fenders and get a gas tank cover that Im happy with. F. I seen your post on the hidden hinges. This is probably the last modification you need to consider as you have way more important issues to address. If you get it all running and stopping and driving well, all rust repaired, then Id suggest cosmetic alterations such as chop, hood modifications, hinges and Etc.. Its fun to think of these types of things while you're working on it, but they can overwhelm so focus on the basics 1st. If you're ever in Oklahoma, or want to stop by to check out my car to get ideas, you're more than welcome to contact me. Just let me know before hand as its currently not operable due to engine issues so I've been driving my 49 F1 Pickup. Also, don't get overwhelmed. I know one idiot (me) that has three hot rods and constantly feel overwhelmed. So always remember the saying of how to eat an elephant, one bite at a time. These are just my suggestions. I hope they help. Also, did you say you have 9 children?!?!? What the What!
Thanks DIRK35 for taking the time to provide such a detailed perspective! I am taking the "begin with the end in mind" approach to the build. Wanting to have a clear vision for what this will look like in the end and ensure all the work builds to that end goal. For sure, I have a lot of foundational work to do...but even some of that depends on the end goal (original or hot rod floor, restore current frame or buy new...or just new outside rails, etc.). As far as the kids...ya, 9. Short story...some are biological and some are adopted. We began helping families in our community with foster care a number of years ago. Were able to help a number of families reunite in the process, and other situations necessitated adoptive homes for the kids. We've been grateful to work with the kids and with the families. A&B. Passenger side frame rail is in worse shape. So, outside rails need to be replaced at a minimum. Depending on engine choice...currently torn between flathead or OHC engine...don't have the $$ for Ardun heads to have both. If opt for a higher HP engine...may look at getting a Pete & Jake's frame. Gotta make up my mind on the engine to nail this down for the frame work. C. Thanks for the heads up on the disk brake caliper issue. Bummer. I am currently thinking I'll do disc all around for peace of mind, but I suppose drum in the back wouldn't be the end of the world. Opting to not tub at all, but I'll need to work out the disc brake caliper issue so thanks for the heads up on that. D&F. Like the idea of doing all of the necessary repairs before I tackle hinges (more likely than not), filling top (likely), or chopping it (certain). Thanks for letting me know your chop of 2/2.5". Do you have more pics of your car I could look at...like side profile, rear, etc. I'm 6'2" so really don't want to end up with an issue with roof height. Your car looks sharp as it sits. 4" for sure is too much for my liking. E. Ya, I need all of these parts. Planning on getting them from Howell's unless I hear differently from someone. Thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience. I appreciate it. If I am ever in your neighborhood I'd love to take you up on the offer to come over and see your car!
Have you Titled it yet ? If you haven't , I'd get it titled before you take it to far apart . When it's stock , there are a lot less questions to answer at the DMV !
I will be doing that before I go much further. Have to wait for the DMV to open back up. Still closed with COVID-19 lockdown. I guess titles and registration aren’t essential after all . Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you can't find an original firewall, Steve's Auto Restorations offers stock reproductions. They also offer stock looking recessed firewalls if you're gonna put a big motor in there. Also, fwiw, a 35 truck firewall fits with little work, provides about 4 inches of extra room, and looks stock when done right. You can trim it along the horizontal at the top of where yours is hacked up, and trim the 35 to fit. I think there are some pics in the ancient build thread on my 3w in my avatar. Let me know if you decide to go that route but can't find what you need though, I can dig up more pics and take some of it now.
The worst battery relocation mod ever! Though I had to chuckle when I saw it. Just the contrast in how much I value this car, compared to many years ago when this was just an old beater wagon for somebody to get from place to place. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Chopped cars are cool looking. I am 6'4" and if you are near my height you will dislike a chopped car. I was always leaning up looking at lights. A tudor almost looks chopped from the factory. I have redone two 33 tudors.
Thanks. It will be the last thing I do, if I do it. I’ll get floor pans, firewall, and repair sections replaced while I think on the chop. I thought I was 100% set on hidden hinges until I inquired about that on the H.A.M.B. Though it’s period correct with examples, some have experienced headaches with them. I’ll also be getting the frame work completed, get the stance set, and get a seat in the car before finalizing a chop decision. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
View attachment 4662289 View attachment 4662290 Can anyone tell me if installing a blown 8BA motor in my '34 would require a firewall modification? Given how tight the original flathead is, I am guess that's a yes. If it does need modified, could someone post a pic or two to show me how much? Since my firewall was attacked by an axe or some other medieval weaponry, I will be replacing it. Planning to replace it with an original, though I see some original ones for sale that have already been modified and may save me some time if I am needing that done with an 8BA motor. Thanks!
I Personally, if I was replacing it anyway, set it back 2” at least, leaving looking stock, Im still contemplating, modifying mine at the bottom for more manifold clearance.
if you switch over the earlier distributor, water pumps, and heads it shortens up the whole motor assembly by about an inch and a half. should be no need to modify anything since it came with a flathead when new
The Jalopy Journal
