Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 1934 ford three window project

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Elvis100, Aug 13, 2017.

  1. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Continued working on the trunk panels. I eventually got the trunk latching, had to reprofile the catch plate a good amount to line it up with the latch. I finally got tired of every tool or fastener falling through the differential access hole every time I set something down. I pressed a round cover and locked it in with the original wire. The wire would have been used with a fabric to cover it originally. I used a 5 gal bucket to mark a circle on plywood, sandwitched that with metal plates.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2020
  2. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    nice!! by golly i need one of those covers too. gotta go find a bucket
     
    Elvis100 likes this.
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,504

    alchemy
    Member

    I never knew they had a wire to hold that cover in!
     
    Elvis100 likes this.
  4. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Elvis100 likes this.
  5. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Yeh, there are three little slots corresponding to three bulges in the wire.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  6. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Thanks, the shop trash bucket did double duty as a template. The size was perfect


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,981

    sliceddeuce
    Member

    Nice work as always.
     
    Elvis100 likes this.
  8. 34 5W Paul
    Joined: Mar 27, 2020
    Posts: 314

    34 5W Paul
    Member
    from Fresno CA

    Great build thread, love the work. The first pic you posted of your Dad I thought he resembled mine. My pop was a truck driver and could do a bit of metal work. Keep up the great work, thanks for sharing all the details!
     
  9. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Took is easy today, cleaned up the shop and ran some errands. I have my work schedule for tomorrow. Got the Passenger door skin! Great job by Waldon Speed Shop in Pomona CA!

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2020
    kidcampbell71, TheBookman and Stogy like this.
  10. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Thanks, I’m getting a lot done on lockdown


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,037

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Walden has a great video of how they replaced the door skin on a 32. The video is on their website.
     
  12. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Thanks, can you post a link. I couldn’t find it


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  13. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    i would like to ask some questions on the diff cover. so, it looks like about 3/4" plywood, obviously the male die is slightly smaller than the female pressed over it, was the plywood itself strong enough to get a uniform press all around the part? did you need to place some steel over the whole thing to press it? move around the edge multiple times to get the "pie tin" shape uniform? thanks again for your efforts here, great documentary.
     
    brEad likes this.
  14. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Hi, yeh. I used a 1/4 inch steel plate below and on top of the plywood. And then a smaller 1 inch piece on top to distribute the force. Had to press about 1/4 of it at a time, total of about 8X pressings. The second time around without the positive and only to flatten deformation.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2020
    brEad and rusty valley like this.
  15. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    makes sense, thanks
     
  16. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,037

    Aaron D.
    Member

  17. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Stogy and kidcampbell71 like this.
  18. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,981

    sliceddeuce
    Member

    Can't have rock 'n' roll without feedback, and you can't have a hotrod without a bullet hole or two.
     
  19. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    rusty valley likes this.
  20. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

  21. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Both my hot rods had bullet holes in their dash panels before I got my hands on’m.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  22. 47streetrodder
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 104

    47streetrodder
    Member

    Spoken by a true Hot Rodder.
     
  23. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

  24. Pete
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 4,761

    Pete
    Member

    Excellent work!


    Iv been doing the same thing, fixing rot. 35E8DB72-D960-4D54-ACBD-E492943584B2.jpeg 640BF47F-F6DE-4759-A423-3B58595A85A8.jpeg 512B0F45-474F-4744-8171-A1FD87990AC1.jpeg 3879522B-811C-4FA6-82D9-141B46E7BCB4.jpeg
     
    Stogy, brEad, Elvis100 and 3 others like this.
  25. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Thanks, you also...looks like the same rot. Did you see the roadster doors I got from you in progress on my other thread? A little more on this one and then back to the roadster.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2020
    Stogy, brEad, kidcampbell71 and 2 others like this.
  26. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    Got the door skin fitted and installed. Now back to adjusting gaps

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  27. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    I see you had to remove the hinge, what all was involved with the door hinge piller being sprung?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 675

    Elvis100

    It wasn’t as bad as I thought. The big thing was being able to tweak it a little with the door skin off. I had plans to strengthen the hinge pillar, but the “hat” channel inside was pretty decent, just needed a little hammer and dolly. I took the hinges off a while back because they were bent. I have them attached with 5/16-24 same as the b-pillar. I’m waiting on a rivet nut tool to install threaded inserts in both doors


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  29. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Thanks, I don't need to remove the skin if I can help it. I'm thinking about drilling a couple hole through the outside & hat channel, bolting a bar inside and pull a little. We'll see....

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  30. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    i believe 33 hinges were bolted to the doors, 34's welded
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.