HEMI Tech- Rockers, valves, pushrods, springs

And like Joe Friday on Dragnet always said "just the facts ma'am".
You won't get b.s. or speculation from racer-x.
Good luck Brian.

 

Yes

 

Racer-x, I should have kept my old 392...
Mick

 

Didn't see any reference on this but what's the ideal clearance between the rocker bore and the shaft? I am working on a 325 dodge using a cam re-ground by racer brown.

 

I'd contact http://www.rockerarms.com/ or http://www.trwaters.com/ and ask them

 

Hello everyone, I have a couple of questions about valve springs. I bought my 354 15 years ago for my 47 and then life and other projects got in the way so it sat and never fired. When I bought it, I was more concerned with going fast than I am now so since I am pulling it apart to check everything out I wanted to make a couple of changes. Currently it is running Venolia 10.5:1 .030 pistons, a semi mild Isky flat tappet solid cam, 280/485/108LC and some pretty stiff valve springs, the actual numbers have been lost to time but I remember around 150lbs seat pressure. I was thinking of replacing the springs with some stockers to help the cam and valve train assemblies out. Though I've slowed down I still like to have some fun so some 5500 rpm blasts will happen. Would the stock valve springs and heavy valve train handle this without floating? With the pistons installed, valve float could be a real issue. Thanks for any advice...

 

'Fun' and 5500 rpm will want to see some similar pressure. I'd use 150 at 1.7" and around 275-300 at 1.2".
With 485 lift you could benefit from a conical spring to get a bit more clearance between retainer and rocker arm.

.

 

Thank you for the quick answer, that's close to what I installed years ago but sure seems high for cam life and stock valvetrain but I respect your amount of knowledge with these engines and it far exceeds mine. I checked the retainer to rocker clearance prior to disassembly and it's ok. Lots of talk about that on this thread so it was the first thing I checked.

 

I'm really glad I decided to pull this engine down before running it. Now I know why I got such a good price on it and it came assembled from one of those "reputable" machine shops... I pulled one head apart and found the exhaust guides had a bronze sleeve installed but the intakes are sloppy, anywhere from .005 - .019 stem clearance. I have no problem installing new intake guides but the exhaust guides have an oil hole drilled in them at the spring seat, the sleeves do not. My question is can I or should I drill this hole through the bronze sleeve? I am not planning on using exhaust valve seals.
Thanks!

 

Working on making my own rockers for my 331. I have 5.23” length valves. The long valves should allow for a wide selection of springs.
Im running a mechanical roller ground to my specs. With the rocker ratios Ive been able to with, final lift should be in the .660”range. With the stands raised and the shafts as close to the head bolts as possible, I think these should make the valve train reliable along with making good power. I drew up a few parts to have cut for templates to “map” final sweep arcs and angles. So far, the max sweep across
the valve tip surface on the exhaust valve is very small at .029” from open to close. These also allow me to get pushrod angles correct without having an actual rocker arm in hand.

 

They're not normally used.

 

I know this, the guy who assembled my engine years ago put seals on the exhaust.
I am asking about this oil hole in the exhaust guide, the bronze inserts are not drilled, should they have been?



Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Hot Heads aluminium heads adjustable rockers and springs for a 525 lift blower motor...These rockers have a little more meat in them than the hydraulic rockers do..

 

Just to follow up, I contacted Hot Heads and found the new guides don't have an oiling hole so that should answer my question, the holes are not needed.

 

Chunk of aluminum to verify off-sets and adjuster/ roller placement.

 

Needed more material around the adjuster. Had to tilt the material to gain side to side distance that I need.

 

Profile test piece after confirming geometry/ placement...

 

More profiling....

 

More profiling...