I've got a mismatch somewhere, I have a hemi flywheel that I drilled for an early Ford 11" disc & Pressure Plate - I am mating a '40ish Ford toploader to the hemi. When I assemble and draw the PP down tight it collapses the springs near coil bind and the fingers are drawn way down to almost straight. Its almost as if the Ford flywheel had a pocket the disc sits in. You can see the springs and fingers in this picture. This is a Ford clutch, right for the year of the transmission. Any thoughts? Machine spacers to move the PP out? Machine a pocket into the flywheel? a little of both? I posted this over in the Ford Barn as well, they say the Ford flywheel is flat, no pocket. Thanks, Oj
The guys on the Barn are right . Are you sure you have a Ford pressure plate ? All of the Ford stuff I have seen are the Long style PP s . The pic from deuce looks like a Borg and Beck style . But,,I have never seen a flywheel cut like that,,,,and the disc looks super thick . Heavy truck application maybe ? Tommy
Check the disk thickness. I had the same problem on an OT MoPar that the rebuilder used linings that were too thick.
Yes, its a Ford 81T-7550 disc & 51-7563 PressurePlate; '39-46 1/2ton pickup & others according to the Green Book I emailed the people I got it from and will post what they have to say.
the flywheel sliced deuce shows is the early style, 9". but thats not what the op has. we need a better picture
I confirmed that I do have the 11" Ford, the part numbers are correct. The people that made it sent this pic of the original Ford flywheel showing the recess for the disc: The disc sits in that 2nd 'ring', all he had was a picture and unable to give a measurement but I can play with shims on the PP to achieve the same, the heartburn will the the shoulder of the PP bolt, they extend thru the PP into a counter sunk hole before the threads start. I set them .100 deep into the flywheel, aircraft bolts (-AN Bolts or NAS bolts) are ordered by the shoulder & thread length. They are appropriately salty. It looks like I have a direction to go in, we'll see what happens next. This hot rodding stuff sure is fun, ain't it?
That’s the back side of the flywheel ! We need some pics of what you have,,,,,and if they built the clutch to fit that flywheel,,,,,,that could be some of the problem . Tommy
When I get into the shop I'll look at both Hemi and Flathead flywheel for ya and post up photos. You may have the center of the Disc hitting the Flywheel blots holding the Disc forward not letting the Fiber of disc seat flat on the disc surface of Hemi flywheel. Some modeling clay on the bolt heads and match back side of damper springs will answer that question for sure. According to top photo everything looks correct and you should not need any spacers between Flywheel and PP.
Most flywheel to crank bolts have a short head on them. If you used standard hardware store bolts the head can cause problems. I'll be back.
I believe you guys are right, it must the motor side. Can't take it apart right now, I stuck the trans back in it so I can set the chassis back on the ground and swap places in the shop.
I appreciate that. I tapped the hemi crank so the bolts go thru from the front and used the ARP large headed 426 hemi flywheel bolts. I had measured everything very carefully because I had to make my own pilot bushing. This picture is from when I tapped the holes for the PP, you can see the machining for the crank bolt heads I looked to see if I had a pic of the flywheel bolted up and the pilot bushing in place but don't have one. The disc isn't touching anything and rotated free with the alignment tool when installing the PP. I had to stick the trans back in so I can roll the chassis around in the shop and swap places with another car, be able to take it apart tomorrow.
The Hemi flywheel looks good,,,,,,what model is the Hemi flywheel,,,,does it register on the crank flange ? Tommy
oj, my idea don't hold water in your case. Yes the photo of the Ford flywheel you posted is of the Back side. Both the Ford and Hemi units are much the same and the Hemi actually has a much deeper cut center relief. Contact is not your problem. Thinking about it all, are you sure you even have a problem? It don't take much movement at the contact point of fingers and bearing to release the disc. I'd put it back together with trans on and depress the Clutch arm and see if I can turn the tailshaft with it in a gear. Past that either the disc or cover must be built wrong. Shims should not be necessary.
Thanks for taking the time to dig the stuff out and post pictures, very good of you. I have it together now and the TO has 1/2" or more freeplay and it is solid when you try to disengage the clutch - I'd break something before it moves.
It is 354 hemi, it fits tight on the crank flange, a proper Chrysler fit. To answer your other question, yes the disc is facing the only way it can go, the splines have to be outboard for the input shaft - remember the adapter moves everything back a good ways. Its an old Offenhauser piece that I did not get any stuff that would have come with it to make it all work.
Judging by Post #18 this guy has been around the block more than a few times, I think he knows what he’s doing.
Post 5 sounds very likely. Any reproduction or rebuilt is always suspect as to materials and dimensions.
I'll go measure a 40 PP and give you the set back of the face of plate to flywheel cover at the flywheel. Maybe there's something there that isn't correct.
I have both a Borgue & Beck style as well as the Ford style. I laid a strait edge on the Bolt pad and used dial indicators to measure the Gap. Ford style is new. Borgue & Beck style is used. I don't have a new disc today but will on Sat. My used disc that I would say is 50% and usable is .340 thick. The new one may be somewhere in the .400 to .450. If your numbers are anywhere close to what I posted up I would be thinking the PP may have been put together with the wrong springs.
The Jalopy Journal
