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Hot Rods Tranverse Springs Tech Info.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fiftyv8, Jun 30, 2018.

  1. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Boy, Ned and 31Vicky, you sure have a great grasp of this stuff and thanks for explaining it in more understandable terms. I'll never be able to recite it all to a 3rd party but I do get the gist of it now.

    It would be nice to hear from the broader audience of this thread to see if they took any benefit from these discussions or have some positive feedback after reading all our discussions.

    I'd hope from now on we will see many more projects being built with a little me focus on using the right springs and ending up with the right spring set when loaded and ready to drive.

    Mucho gracias to all concerned.
    Russ.
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  2. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    100% intentional.

    Ford engineers, even then, were no slack-jawed-yokels.
     
  3. Well they might have been, but they weren't stupid slack jawed yokels.
    Today, ford uses the best dressed and well spoken engineers, some idiots there on the design team. They have one hell of a color development and paint team though.
     
  4. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    If anybody discovers something of value to add, please do so, but for now I think I will just turn out the lights on this thread for now.
    Not much left to be said from me...
    Thanks and it was great discussing and learning about this stuff.
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  5. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

  6. @fiftyv8, thanks for sharing all your experience and starting this discussion. Not to exclude @Ned Ludd or @31Vicky with a hemi and others for chiming in and adding their knowledge and thoughts. I know I’ve learned a lot.
     
    fiftyv8 likes this.
  7. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    You are very welcome brEad, I to enjoyed it and thanks to all the other participants.
    We are never to old to learn about these things.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2019
  8. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,176

    manyolcars

    I learned that serrated bolts pushed into a hole in the shackle is no good. the bolt WILL pivot in the shackle and wear rapidly, elongating the holes. Weld the bolt to the shackle. I only got 10,000 miles and the hole had gotten so big it the shackle was almost worn in two
     
  9. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,176

    manyolcars

    "someone" named Marco. :) Marco is perhaps the most knowledgeable Model A guy in the world
     
  10. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

    Just reread this thread and decided to give it a bump for those that may not have seen it the first time around.

    There were a couple things I'd like to get more input on too.

    I was mistaken in my thinking that reversing the spring eyes shortened the main leaf.

    I thought I was told that when the eyes were heated and rerolled the spring got shorter. I spoke with one local spring shop that suggested reversing and relaxing the main leaf for about 2" of drop. We're talking about original '32 springs here.

    Q) How would you compensate for the now longer spring? Shorter shackles or, is the only "good" way of doing it is to buy a new main leaf that's reversed and a little shorted. Of course then, how much shorter?

    The other item is the number of leaves in the front and rear spring packs. This was touched on but not in-depth. I'd think the front spring should be a little firmer than the rear.

    Q) What type of spring bias would be preferable front to rear on a fenderless '32 roadster? About the same, firmer up front, or firmer in the rear?

    If you have any input on my two question that would be great.
    If you've never seen this thread and you've found the information useful that's also great.
    -Dave
     
  11. Doug Sonnenberg
    Joined: Dec 10, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Doug Sonnenberg
    Member

    Id like to see more pictures/examples of rear tranverse spring setups. Ive read this entire forum. Great stuff. Id love to see more examples. Im in process of building my 29 chrysler roadster. Im doing a P&J front transverse, now debating if i should do a rear one aswell. I have a ford 9 that id be using. Would a rear tranverse with a spring behind the axle work? Thx
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2021
    fiftyv8 likes this.
  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I haven’t read every post in this thread yet and this may have been mentioned already.

    I don’t have anything really earth shattering to add just something I found and ordered for my Posies front spring for my RPU.

    When I got my shackles I realized that they were equipped with plastic poly bushings.

    I didn’t think that was the best way to go so I ordered up a set of Oilite bronze bushings from Limeworks.

    A better choice I thought.
    https://www.limeworksspeedshop.com/Oil-Lite-Bronze-Shackle-Bushings-p/olb1001.htm

    94211B41-F74B-4BCA-B43E-A84FE2C46783.jpeg 2A4431A9-26E8-4E51-B8A3-21FCC2712E0E.jpeg
     
    Shadow Creek, fiftyv8 and pprather like this.
  13. dirt car
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,045

    dirt car
    Member
    from nebraska

    Good info blue one, I had made reference on a previous inquiry with reference to problematic bushings that the source you have provided would be a once & for all problem resolver. While on a different take will be in contact with Lime Works on an up graded bushing for the 4-bar suspensions as well. Thanks,Ron
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2021
    Blue One and fiftyv8 like this.

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