I just finished installing a Hydro-Motive modified early Olds based 4 speed hydra-matic behind my Chevy engine and fresh rebuilt chassis. In neutral the car is very hard to push... it could be everything adding up, new front disc, rear diff is rebuilt but sat for a year in that special lube that gummed it up, but it does turn by had with some effort. Now that I installed the driveshaft, it takes a lot for me push the car in the shop. I did a very short first drive around the block and it goes ok... its not dragging it to slow it down, I don't think its loading the engine but I also have about a 2800 stall torus coupling winding up before it moves. Transmission backstory... When new the trans had very few passes, motor blew and put in basement storage in the early 60's. I took a retired specialist who like I was amazed at the clean inside condition, no rust and still wet with fluid, inside bands were thick like new and seals were soft, decided to leave it. We did adjusted the bands and servo following the Hydro Street Strip book using the correct tools. One missing piece was a quick release lever that loosened the rear band for a clean shut down. It was replaced with the factory band adjustment bolt. I could turn the transmission over by hand with the yoke before the install, it was tight but could be turned. Install had no issues just as the Hydro-Motive instructions said and test stand ran fine. I'm wondering if the Hydros were took a little force to turn over new? Does the rear the bands drag on the drum? Maybe the quick release was there for easy rolling too? Maybe I just need to put a few miles on things to loosen them up and watch fluids and temp? Thoughts and ideas appreciated.
Maybe @PhilA will see this and respond as he just went thru his hydro and may be able to suggest something.
Here you go. Rear band release. My understanding is that the rear band needs to be released in order to push it. I had the same issues with hydro in my 57 Pontiac.
Yes! Thats the info I needed to set my mind at ease. Sounds as if the Hydro-Motive release does the same with a pin that goes through the adjusting bolt. My B&M Hydro pushed a lot easier but never knew how many miles it had or was properly adjusted. I might want to find/build a release or add a rubber plug to the floorboard if I ever an issue. Always learning, thanks guys.
I had 3 hydros. One, blown competition the other unblown competition B&M. One Hydro-Motive. The blown competition B&M and the Hydro-Motive had the same issues you are experiencing. I'm sure there are guys here that know a lot more than I do that can help, but That said, I love those hydros! Different and so much fun. How much HP are you making?
Just saw my name mentioned, but I've been beaten to the punch! Yes, the band needs to be released for everything to spin freely- if the car is pushed the oil pressure will come up on the rear pump but it dies off very quickly and becomes hard to push again. If things are a bit worn with age it'll slip more with no pressure (the spring plus oil pressure will clamp the band down well with the car in motion or the engine running when it's required). Phil
That would make sense, my B&M was not a BC and pushed much easier. I dont think its much HP maybe around 350 with a tune? Its a 311 (destroked 327 +bore) with matched dual carbs and Comps copy of the 30/30. 10.3 compression. I spent the money on the lower end build for rods, pistons, balancing and precision machine work. Early double humps were mildly ported and enlarged, theyand the Creitz intake will be lack power. I wish I had put it on a dyno just to have an idea. This has the torus side ground away just as the Hydro for Street and Strip shows, not both for the smaller 25-2800 stall. For now Im running 3:50 gears for the highway slightly bove the stall speed but maybe too close. Considering 3:70 for stall heat issues. Ive seen one pic of a modified trans running a cooler but no idea how they did it inless tapped into the pan and case.
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