Probably depends what you want the car to be when it's done. Mine was easy...it had to be painted the same as it would have been from the factory, because I built my car as if it were modified into a race car when it was almost new. With all the work you're doing on the rest of the car to restore things to like new condition, I'd strongly suggest doing the same with the dash paint....it will look "right" that way.
Well I ponder what to do with the dash I decided I will prep the trunk. Not an area I have been excited to start working on........ the trunk is in relatively good shape although there is some surface rust forming which needs attention. This is where things got a little sticky, literally. I start all my prep with a solid clean of the area using wax and grease remover. As most of you know, and for those who dont, original GM splatter seems to turn into a goo when any liquid: w&g remover, degreaser, water.... thankfully it seems to harden back up once dry. I hit a section with a grinding wheel/sanding disc which clogged almost immediately. Wire wheel useless. I ended up washing a section down with a w&g remover soaked scotch bright and a wash cloth. Worked ok but painfully slow. Does anyone have experience/suggestions removing this "stuff".
Might have to go with something stronger if you are okay with that. I have used aircraft paint remover and a scraper. Pretty potent stuff but does the trick. Mask and cover areas you don’t want the remover to get on. I’ll see if there are any other suggestions in a nova forum. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Have to say I am a fan of these Chevy 2’s. I had a 1962 and we put a Chevelle frame under it all the way back to the front (rear spring mount). Welded a flat plate and mounted with four bolts . Bolted the body to the top rail. Car would hook up . Heck I have new interior panels and carpet in black that never got used . Have a single Edelbrock tunnel ram for a small block Chevy I might sell.
Well finally back at the 63. I managed to finish cleaning the splatter paint from the trunk. Honestly the best method I found was spraying down an area with wax and grease remover then hitting it was a wire brush. Pretty quickly turns to goo which I wipe off again with a wax and grease remover soaked cloth. All in all I think it looks good. Oh did I mention we are flipped back over......... will spend some time installing the doors, making sure everything is square and happy before final welding the subframe connectors. Then finally I can start on the subframe!
I've been searching for an older/vintage tach but have only found really cool pieces for a heck of a lot of money. I scored this tach today for a whopping 35$. I dont know much about it and a search on the interweb came up with nothing. Anyone out there have any information on this old tach? Either way I think it looks cool!
Spent some time this week leveling the 63 front to back and side to side. I reinstalled the doors and set the gaps, if the car twisted or racked when flipped over I can't tell. Door gaps look great and a few random measurements tell me things look very good. Once I accomplished that I hung the fenders and made a make shift perch for the rad support. I had originally measured the TCI subframe before selling it but I wanted to be sure, things were square and that those measurements worked for my set up. A few tweaks and a lot of scribbled notes and drawings and I now have what I need. The front end was taken back apart, I drilled the 1/2" holes in the 3/8" firewall mounting plate which will be the basis of my subframe. Dont mind the black marker lines they highlight the more accurate scribed lines. I continued and built a cradle for the subframe. This has adjustment points on each corner for fine adjustments and to be sure all is level and square. Honestly the cradle took longer to make then it took to get the subframe square and level...... overall I am very happy with the fitment. I will take it all back apart to drill holes to rosette weld the lower plate to the hat channel subframe extensions along with a good clean up of the steel for welding. Progress!
Good job Dan, I can tell you put a lot of thought into things. I have not seen that brand of tach before but sure has a nice old time look to it. If it works it will be an inexpensive option for you.
Dan...great yakking with you today @ the flats Hope the rod ends work out. Your build though is Fab-U-Lous! You do nice work and it's gonna be a great car. In fact, reading this inspires me to keep plunking away on my heap!
Well made a few tweaks on the 63 over the last few days. Adjusted the body height and re-leveled it. Drilled a whack load of holes in the subframe rails. 148 to be exact, on two inches centers staggered top to bottom making a rosette weld ever one inch. Should be strong enough! I made upper firewall mounts from 3/16 plate. I still need to radius the corner, hopefully that won't take long. I also made up two support brackets that will be both rosette welded and perimeter welded to the 3/8 firewall mount. It extends roughly 6 inches towards the front of the car. I will drill holes in the side of the subframe rails to again, rosette weld for added strength. The downtubes were purchased and they are NICE! I am still debating in my head where exactly I will be placing the cross member. Once I get the subframe rails tacked in place I will likely locate it but not fully weld it in until after the rad support, engine and steering set up are in. I still need to trim the fronts of the subframe rails to accept the rad support. Otherwise some serious metal clean up and prep and I should be able to get this this tacked in place soon-ish....
Continued prepping the subframe steel for alignment and welding today. 3/16 upper firewall plate edges are rounded and the material is sanded and ready for welding. I also remade the inner supports for the lower firewall mount to allow the subframe rails to be rosette welding from either side. The brackets will be both rosette welded and perimeter welded to the 3/8" thick lower firewall mount. The subframe nose have been trimmed to accept the rad support. I also aligned and drilled holes that will accept nuts that will be welded in place to anchor the rad support. I will box the ends at a later date. I also spent some time confirming the front cross member location. I have noticed on a number of aftermarket subframes that the cross member is welded to the bottom of the subframe rail extension. My theory for this is to make room for the radiator. I prefer the cross member higher and want to link the subframe rail to the cross member with a top plate which will be the location and mount for the firewall downtube thus linking the structure together. To mount the cross member level with the top of the subframe rail I moved it back 3 3/4" allowing the rad to drop down between the cross member and the rad support. At a later date the cross member will also serve as the lower radiator mounting point...... enough said there....... Otherwise a couple more days of metal cutting, metal prep and the envitable tweaks I should be able to weld the subframe up........ oh and did I mention finally I tracked down a saginaw 525 box!
beautiful !.....1st car '66chevyII ss...brings back great memories..good luck with build !....thanx Charlie
Thanks guys! Still working away. I managed to weld the inner supports to the 3/8" thick lower fire wall plate. Cranked my Miller 175 up as high as it goes. Overall happy with the results although that material thickness is at the machine's limit. I also welded in the rad support mounting nuts. With the inner supports and the rad support nuts welded in place I reassembled the front sheet metal to be sure my measurements were correct and all aligned. Much easier to get together being able to bolt and clamp things in place. The Fender gaps to the doors look great, I did not install the hood although i took some measurements everything is square and looks like it will fit together without issue. Onto fitting the firewall downtubes.
looking good! Wow, that's a lot of work. I'm sure glad I had a nice original front subframe to strip and use the original frame rails and crossmember
Well in a bit of a holding pattern..... waiting for my radiator to arrive so I can confirm the cross member location and be sure there are no interference issues with the lower radiator hose. I think it will be ok but better to wait then have to cut out freshly welded steel. I decided to tackle the upper front fender brackets that mount to the rad support. Rusty and almost none exsistant..... I drilled out the spot welds took some measurements and created new brackets, I will add a angled support so it doesn't flex once all fastened together. Otherwise the fit is good. Some holes and a little trimming and I will be able to weld em in.
Still waiting on the radiator, was hoping it would show up today......... I have a very cool sprint car axle that had been passed along to me, this thing is beefy. I am not sure the wall thickness but I am sure its 3/8", its heavy! I had some king pin bushings machined up to accepts early ford passenger car spindles. It should work well! Also was very fortunate, the fella I sold the TCI subframe to a while back reached out and said he was going to sell his hooker fenderwell headers! Who could say no to that...... now how to get them home from kamloops.........
Radiator fits! I managed some time on the front cross member and welded in the "boxes" that step up to the height of the subframe rails. They are a little smaller then I would have liked but this is done to clear the lower radiator hose. The top plate will be welded in place to secure the rails to the cross member and will provide the perfect spot for the tubular firewall mounts which are next on my list.
Well got a little side tracked.......... by a 57/58 Olds diff. I am very excited about this piece! Thanks again to Duncan and YG. It is a beast, 9.3" ring gear, 3.42 gears and a massive housing. I look forward to cleaning this thing up and getting it bolted into the 63. Oh did I mention the leaf spring axle perches are spot on and it will bolt in! Let's hope the pinion angle is something I can work with when it comes time to install the engine/trans.
Still distracted by the big olds..... I tossed it up on the leafs and again it fits good! The overall width is a touch wider the the stock gm 8.2 but nothing the proper offset wheel can't take care of. The pinion angle looks at a glance like a number I will be able to work with. While I was tinkering on the rear I installed the aluminum/steel bushings I had machined for my make shift cal trac type bars. The aluminum bushing spent a few days in the freezer and squeezed in perfectly. Drew up some template for the brackets I would like to use too. Progress, sorta, slowly..........
The Jalopy Journal
