Projects 39 Standard Tudor build thread

@1pickup it's a mounting stud that's in the stock crossmember back there. I used a 1/2" Rotobroach for the hole to keep it clean and easy (lots of wax), it comes with a nice heavy washer for the back side. Like I mentioned above, one of my surprises was the tilt in the stock crossmember at that point and it angled the bottom of the shock toward the front of the car. Again, my solution was to squeeze that area with a big 'C' clamp until the shock was plumb with the lower mount, and that was made easier by trimming the outer forward flange about 2 1/2" for clearance. I'll try to shag some close up shots with the pipes out of the way. When you know what you have to do it goes easier and faster, like the other side did

 

@1pickup here's some add'l upper shock pics. Note where the flange is cut on my crossmember...

 

Another chapter almost completed, pipes. I picked up where the pipes make their way through the rear of the main 'X' member at the back. I ended up keeping the tube size 2" as far back as I could before stepping up to the bigger 2 3/4" for the stainless tailpipes. Just because, I tried to keep each side as symmetrically opposite as possible:

 

Thanks @theHIGHLANDER . What shocks did you use?

 

They're NAPA heavy duty gas shocks. I still have the boxes for part# reference. Next update I'll post it along with some other stuff.

 

One side ready to final weld n install. The tailpipe was the star of this show. I had a target in mind and placement too. I think I'll be alright with this:

There's a minor turndown at the end. I won't have it point down, each side will face just slightly outward. Seems to fit my vision of this better. It was a little aggravating but the other goal was to have the pipe be seen just below the rear fender. It's the only place I wanted exhaust to show outside the car. They're big, stainless, about 2 3/4" OD.

 

Both sides done and final welded. Gotta hang it all, make sure there's ample room in the their final positions to avoid the potential for rattles. I also have to get my head around final finish color. Might do the raw steel hi-temp owder on the head pipes, just high heat flat black on the rest, and of course the tails left bright stainless, but I am considering a nice brushed finish on the tails. Polsih em up pretty good, not perfect, then satin em down with an ultrfine Scotchbite pad. We'll see, my imagination favors the brushed look.

Reminder pics of the head pipes:


Both tails in but not final hanging:

 

@Highlander Yup, my exhaust is already run exactly where your rear upper shock mounts are, in the "hump". Might have to re-do the tailpipes. Did you remember what the shocks were made for, or a part #?

 

Good to see you back on this, nice job on the exhaust.

 

I was just looking at this on my Sedan yesterday, Not cheap from Drakes, where do you get the straight felts from?

 

I l'ke these belts, just looked up, Summit sell them for $47.00, next on my list.

 

I had a local swap meet, the guy sells excess and overstocked stuff, and also full straight lengths. You're in jolly ol England, I'd think the ride would be cost prohibitive. These were (at the time) about $30 each. That was few years ago and we gotta hope the rona didn't kill his biz. And I'm not sure it was worth it for the effort needed but they came out just fine.

Also, on the belts, if you have a drag race friend they expire every 1 or 3 years (depending on class) or so and they need new ones. Worth a look.

 

Thanks for that, I was hoping there might be something on them that would help me track them down over here.

 

You might try any businesses over there that do automotive glass. Especially ones that work with vintage stuff.
There's a place near me that does all vintage and custom glass and they carry several varieties of those window fuzzies. Very helpful people and they gave me a lesson on bending it. As a result I won't be buying a brand 'kit.'
These guys:
https://glass4classics.com.au/glass-4-classics-store/
I'm sure you'd have similar over there.

 

Nice work, as always.

 

Well in our last episode it was shocks n pipes. Sorta moved on to other stuff. The coil is mounted, the heater is in with defroster tubes, mounted my little Trico vacuum fan too. Cleaned up the radiator and gave it a light fresh coat, cut the stainless tubes to fit, made metal tube heater hoses vs a typical "fillin station" install, and mounted and plumbed the Oberg filter. Yes, put in the restrictor fitting too. So without further ado here's some shots although don't be too harsh if they ain't in order. Oh yeah, raised the back 1 1/2" to keep the snotty rake too. I'm probably forgetting something. Shit, I am. I got the Speed King gas pedal in and I'm changing the interior lights.

 

More...

 

I put the turn signal switch wires in a metal tube that will disappear under the dash, it'll get paint the color of the column and be clamped on. Better than just wire, I think. I also upped the fuel line to 5/16 in case it ends up with Zora's other preferred rod engine some day. A few more shots...

 

In prep for "maybe" I shagged an Offy dual for the flatty. But in another form of "maybe" I also snatched up an adapter and front mount for a SBC. Ya never know, but if, IF, that's where she goes some day I'm ready. I prefer the 59A just never say never, right?

 

Finally, my fuckin imagination is my worst enemy sometimes. I'm watching a rerun of "L.A. Confidential" one night. The scene where Jack and Huxley are in the car laughing about Lana Turner, a 50 Ford, and I see the interior light. No pun intended a light came on in my head. Perfect. Some may recognize it:


So I start seeing the taillight and headlight lenses in my mind's eye.


So I'll be mounting them upside down to emulate the outside lights. It's turning into a big job to make it work but I don't care. Like I said, my worst enemy. Nuckin futs but too late now. If anyone has one without a switch I need it.

 

Seems I have entered this thread a little late. Oh well.. better late than never.

I am liking the dedication and attention to detail throughout.... A 2015 start I see.

 

Yes, 2015. Aside from life getting in the way of our best laid plans I also run a shop that does this specialty shtick. Barefoot shoemaker, and there's credence to the idea that if you really want it for yourself sometimes doing it for a living isn't the smoothest pavement. You grind all day on the client's cars, sometimes you just have had enough by day's end.

 

Having reviewed my thread I see I neglected to add which shocks I used.
Fronts are NAPA # SH81108 or shock number 733690. I cut the "bells" off the fronts for upper mount clearance.

Rears are NAPA # SH82001, shock number 739001.
@1pickup ...

 

Very true mate....

I'm enjoying the thread from start to finish...

 

So there's one light in and I just scored the other side with no switch in nearly NOS condition. Had to cut some out and spot mig some back in, but no matter. It's just what I'd seen in my convoluted mind...

Heres the other one, ready to go now.

The scene of the crime, as they were in a 50:


Progress, I think.

 

Good to see an update, loads of nice details. just looking back through this, and the exhaust run, have you decided where to run the gas line yet? I was hoping to run it in the reals, but like you, my pipes exit the crossmember and run up the side of the chassis rail, really close to where the gas line would be, wondering about heat transfer..

 

I ran the fuel line on the outside of the frame. Came out and up at the rear kick, then down the left side tucked up under the running board. It then goes up the firewall and into the flathead fuel pump. I upped the size to 5/16 as well on the off chance it ends up Chevy powered in the future. I need a low pressure electric pump for priming up the system after long sits and that will be that.

 

Ok, another box checked. Shes got a rear sway bar. I shagged a smokin deal on a Mustang bar that I modified and made to suit my needs and available real estate. Yes, I took a lotta things into consideration and it's also not like I'll be diving into the turn at the end of the Mulsanne Straight at 220 MPH

So here's some process and finished pics I'll explain as I go, as usual.

I made a heavy paper board pattern. Donut boxes work well for this

I made the mounts out of .125 steel and the paper pattern was intended to be reversible. I'm lazy like that.


So next I bent the bar for 1 side and worked it into place. The hoarder I am, I had 2 bar to frame mounts laying about that fit the old shock holes. No frame drilling thru the double braced area so lucky me.



Once done I mirrored everything opposite for the other side. I had to widen the bar about 1¾" so I used some .125 wall seamless DOM about 24", used a roto broach cutter for four ⅜" rosette welds to compliment the end welds.



All of the bar bending and welding was left to slow cool to maintain the properties of the bar and sleeve.
Painted up everything and just because I'm me I added a part number to the brackets. 81A is all the 37 thru 39 std chassis stuff so what the hell, why not.



Next post with all of it installed...

 

Here it is all painted and bolted in. Pretty happy with it.





For my purposes I maintained room for tailpipes and tire clearance. The main reason I didn't go the kit route. Like I said above, another box checked. Next is the front panhard.

 

Checked some more boxes. I've delayed clearing and finishing the woodgrain because I had more to do, like hang the vintage Sun vac gauge and tach. Took too much knob-dickin around but, they're both the same 'X' and 'Z' locations. Why? I dunno, just cuz I guess. Since it was in there I set everything in place and took the opportunity to see how it all looks. Forget the wheel color. I don't how that happened and gets repainted. I did a few other boring details that aren't worth too much talk and pics. Just the usual suspects of doing a car I guess like floor screws and playin with the turn signal switch wiring again. Yeah, the tube gets painted. I may satin nickel the shift lever. Not sure but seems right. Enjoy...



I need to tie up the defroster ducts and get a vacuum storage can like out of an old lux barge from back in the day, also have to sort out a reasonable firewall insulation plan, but like a said at the top, more boxes checked.