Has anybody used the sbc Fenderwell headers that speedway sells? They say they are universal for 1935-48. Wanting to put them on a 56 gasser. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've got those headers on my 38 Chevy, they work fine.....here's a picture of the install....now...my question is will the header tube run straight into your steering box??
Every body knows it’s a Chevrolet. The only car made in 55-57. It’s just like a 32 or 40 there are only Fords . . . .
The "Fat Fendered" fenderwell headers will not work on a Tri-Five Chevrolet. Perhaps IF the engine was raised 4 inched or so, they might clear the steering and firewall. JMO. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I'm assuming........Gasser.......perhaps not stock parts. That said, after assuming, a lot of people have used Speedway headers. Unless you mean 56 Pontiac like mine, and then no, they will not work unless you cut them up and change them up.
I used them on a 55 and have them on my 39 Ford-BUT - neither had inner fender wells. I had to dimple one tube to get at the bolt ,but other than that,ok.
Same header as the Speedway Fat Fender header but made of polished STAINLESS STEEL is available from several vendors on Ebay....and for 1/4 less money than the plain steel versions Speedway has. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-35-48-...394218?hash=item547bddebaa:g:mZIAAOSwmnFd-ve7 Schoenfeld Headers has a "Street Rod" header that ha s slightly different shape and tube route but still the same general idea, you might give that a look to see if it would fit your needs https://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/street-rod.html
Actually they are going on a 56 ford customline. It is a gasser so no inner fenders. The car has a sbf in it but my plan is to cut the flange off and weld the sbf flange on. I figured since they are sbc headers, that there’s a good chance somebody here has used them on a 55-57 Chevy which would be close enough to make them work on my ford. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It will be a bitch trying to get those paired center exhaust primary pipes spread out to SBFord spacing. I would rethink what you're planning. You can get the Schoenfeld "Street Rods" as an unwelded kit if you call them, you might be able to work with that and a few extra bends from them.
I have them on my 48 Chevy Fleetmaster. They fit fine. Plenty of room for steering and routing your exhaust. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I've seen SBC headers modified to fit the Y-Block, but it might be a bit of work getting them to fit a Windsor. -Dave
The Tri-5 BBC fender well headers from Speedway might work better than the SBC headers and are much cheaper. I have a set that I am hoping to change flanges on for 390 FE in my 55 Ford gasser.
I have a Ford 351W in my 48 Austin that I am building. I looked all over for SBF fender well headers. I got creative and bought these stock clip 351W stock car headers from Schoenfeld and also a set of their angled slip on collectors. I cut the header collector off at where the tubes straighten out to go to the collector and put the slip on collector on to bring the angle more straight down. The stock clip headers sweep back at an angle behind the back port and I need them to come more straight down. Instead of buying the complete headers pictured I bought the same header in a raw un-welded kit that had all of the mandrel bends made. This allowed me to massage some of the tubes to fit my Austin's chassis. I moved the 2nd, 3rd and 4th primary tubes up to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd port on the flange and used the 1st primary tube tube to build the tube for the 4th port. This allowed the slip on collector to come straight down from the back port. I have about half the cost of what it would have cost me to build the headers from scratch.
I’ve got a set of those for the FE that was in my gasser before. The tubes are too big for the sbf. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That STAINLESS STEEL is S-H-I-T !!! This is after a handful of garage heat cycles with header wrap on them
Nothing wrong with the headers, the wrap is the problem....it ruins everything. I've got a set of those same cheap stainless Ebay headers on a OT ride that are two years old and they still look good, just slightly bronze toned and dulling of the polished finish. Wrap is the worst thing you can do to any exhaust part. You want to fight and contain heat- Ceramic coat them.
When I was racing (road courses) my 1967 Mini in England, I wrapped my header. Where it turned to go under the car it collapsed inside the wrap. I noticed others were doing the same thing. Maybe from water splashing on them, I don't know. Much like the Chevy exhaust pipes used to do with the double pipe (not sure of exact term). Anyone remember those? Maybe there's a secret to how to wrap, as a lot of people do it. But, I don't anymore. Reason for water splashing on header, we didn't stop or cancel races in England, we just put on our rain tires. LOL.
I didn't wrap those headers, I bought them from a local after they wouldn't fit his early 30's Plymouth sedan project once he tried to add his fenders back on. Last time I checked stainless steel isn't supposed to rust, no matter how BIG you capitalize the letters or if you add heat wrap on them. I stand by my comment that those supposedly "stainless" headers are SHIT.
Actually it's not as bad as people think. I spent a total of 10 yrs. in England while in the USAF, 1980-86 and 1990-94. You learn to accept the weather, after all if you don't like it, just wait 5 minutes and it'll change. LOL. There are no rain dates for car shows, you just go prepared. We've even camped in the rain. Out of my 29 races in '93-94, I only had to use the rain tires a hand full of times. In 1985, I almost didn't go to a car show because of the rain, it was 100 miles one-way and I had spent the previous day cleaning my car (1965 Mini Van), but I went anyway. If I had stayed home I wouldn't have brought home the First Place Trophy. Everyone needs to live in England for awhile to learn how to adapt to the weather. Sorry, to get thread off track. Back to fender well headers. Ron