I am getting ready to box my frame rails and trying to figure out my brake hoses before I do. Has anyone passed there brake hose through one of the shock holes? I was thinking the front one then making a small door over the hole in the boxing plate and running the brake line through the frame inside a tube to it.
Access to the inverted flare fitting would be restricted but maybe if you made a 90 degree flare nut wrench it might work. Phil
I was thinking that or a crowd foot. I found I can push 3/16 brake line through 1/2 air hose . If I secure the air hose to the frame I should be able to push it through to change later if needed.
I was thinking a crowd foot would be fairly big so that's why I thought bending a flair nut wrench right at the end would mean your tube through the boxing plate could be smaller.
I was thinking like a 2x3 access door. Right over the spot where the line enters the frame then run the brake line through the frame rail till it gets under the body and break out to the master.
Yes that is what I am working on now. I wanna run everything forward of the body inside the frame tube if possible.
Ok, I understand your concept now, it would mean cutting out a section of the original frame but I think boxing it would make up for it. Phil
You're boxing it. Any size hole you add to make life easy would be nearly meaningless. That is unless it was within fractions of the overall frame size. Not sure I'm totally following here, but any access for service, now and in the future, always looks "smart" when the job is done. Where hardlines go to the master on the inside you can add a nice oval hole so the line doesn't have to be radar located to come out and connect. 2 holes about 3/4", a cutoff wheel to remove the middle, nice oval hole that makes life easy. For the hard line to soft, maybe an inverted flare bulkhead fitting, and again a hole big enough to service of needed and make the build process easy. If I missed something in translation...?
Don't make life harder than it has to be. Don't hide brake lines inside anything. They always have a chance to leak, and finding/fixing the leak is hard enough with them out in the open. I'd hate to be craning my neck between the engine and steering box trying to fit two wrenches inside a two inch hole, then getting 10 degrees of rotation on every tightening turn. And, are you boxing your frame with it laying loose on top of some benches? You need to clamp that frame down very tightly to a flat jig before you put a half mile of new weld on it.
I am still fitting the boxing plates. Haven't stated to weld them in yet. And your right that tiny hole in the boxing plates would suck once the engine is there.
TCI and several other places offer drilled, tapped, and threaded feed throughs for brake lines going through boxed frames. I have used them many times. Practicality overrides hiding brake lines inside the frame. Take your time with a quality tube bender and people will compliment you on the job. I use and recommend Imperial Eastman tube benders in the size you choose for your lines. The universal 3 or 4 bend units don't bend as tight as a single size bender. Do the same with your fuel lines and use double clamps for a clean installation .
I used these on my boxed Model A frame. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Thru-Frame-Brake-Line-Fittings-2-1-4-2-3-4-Inch,36844.html
I've highly considered those. How are all the different fitting styles? Double flare at the master 3 an at the fitting. I guess as long as I stay away from npt I'll be ok.
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