we tried the citric acid solution on some parts after reading hambers success. it works very well. we put a very rusty crankshaft and some 8ba manifolds in 3 gallons of water to 1 cup of citric acid. 2 days everything was clean. the residue brushes off with a paint brush. thank you for posting this. we don't have to buy expensive solution at the hardware store when we can make the stuff for pennies. we won't be passing on rusty parts at the swap meet anymore. i mean, when we get to go to a swap meet.
I recently bought 10lbs of it on flea bay for $25 delivered. Stuff works like magic! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Citric-Aci...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I ordered some of the food grade citric acid after reading about it here on the H.A.M.B. It is working very well for me so far. How long does the solution stay active or does it ever ware out?
Assume you fill your 250 gallon tank with 225 gallons of water and use the suggested 1 cup to 3 gallons of water, you would need 25 pounds. It's about 3 cups per pound.
When you get the specific stuff that you will use, weight out a cup or two. The powders vary some depending on how course.
I tried it and I'm impressed but some parts were coat in a yellowish/white residue when laying on the bottom which was a little difficult to remove. I'm a big fan of reverse hydrolysis.
^^^^ This is what I used. Cut the top out and attached back on with hinges and a handle. The top helps to stop evaporation. I run a couple of bars side to side and hang the parts off wires so they are off the bottom. It does a great job.
I use citric acid a lot. For chrome I prefer oxalic acid ( wood bleach). Quick jobs I reach for phosphoric after wire wheeling. I stay complete away from muratic- nasty. Neutralize any of it with baking soda and dish soap. Dish soap by itself is mildly basic on PH scale. Ive set up electrolysis tanks, the need for line of sight to electrode is a pain for many parts. Molasses, works, the smell gags me when it goes sour, gave up and using the rest of my molasses to fertilize the yard.
I'm not sure what that crud is, but if your experience was like mine it takes a chipping hammer to remove it. Stronger acids don't touch it, nor do strong bases ???
Here is what I have been cobbling up to derust parts as a couple of posters have mentioned above. Should be able to put some large stuff in as well as the smaller stuff. I have a couple of engines that I want to insure I get all the rust build-up out of the water jacket before moving on to a final clean-up. I attached a battery tray from a 90s (?) Ford pick-up because it was the right shape and size. That allows me to either switch to electrolysis later if I want, but also to power a small trolling motor. I figure since the water jackets may have pockets of rust inside, I want to be able to create a flowing motion in the tank occasionally to insure the removed rust floats out of any pockets. I'm making a companion to it to degrease parts (like the engine block) before introducing them to the citric acid bath. Hopefully that will keep the acid bath a little cleaner. For the degreasing tank, I picked up a "job box" or "gang box" off Marketplace. They are large and strong and have a fold down lid to keep stuff out while the object of my affliction soaks for an extended period. I found a small "agitator" on Marketplace for $20 that I'm going to mount in the degreasing tank to also create some flow on occasion. Its a small motor with about a 2" propellor and a speed control. Haven't finished the degreaser yet, or finished disassembling the first motor......The basic idea is to pressure wash the motor (and myself) and get the initial crud off it (thats done). Soak the block and heads in the degreasing tank for several days while working on other projects. Remove the block and pressure wash again. Then put it in the citric acid bath for a few days and then hose it off again. Cadillac engines tend to run hot so I want to insure there are no rust buildups inside before I drop a bunch more money into it. Added note 7/7/20 : Don't want anyone else to make the same mistake I did with the "job box". Turns out that the one I bought looks one piece and water tight.....but it ain't. The bottom leaks like a sieve. I could line the bottom edges of the tank with Por 15 tank sealer, but I decided to flip it over and weld the seam. It will still make a great cleaning tank when done, but I wanted everyone to know before they try to make a similiar one. Not sure if all brands do that, so check the way its made before buying. I'd still do it again because its what I want and holds larger stuff than most tanks.
Its so damn easy and works great, glad to see folks catching on . Sent from my SM-A205U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you use a plastic tank a good agitator is a jitterbug sander strapped to the outside with bungee cords. I used to run the Certo line at General Foods. Where Certo spilled on the machinery it took the paint off then when it rusted, took the rust off too. Certo contains citric acid. Not suggesting you use Certo, just a side light on the citric acid effectiveness.
I'm using 1 pound per 5 gallons, but the mix is flexible and if it works at 3, go with it. It will probably work a lot faster.
I dump it down the storm drain in front of my house or in the drain in my driveway. I dump my rinse bucket of baking soda solution right after it. But I work in 5-6 gallons if it at a time.
As to the mix ratio, when trying to answer RMONTY's question I used the 1 cup to 3 gallons that the original poster claimed to work well for him to ballpark how much he would need for his 250 gallon tank. Filling it to 225 just made the math easy. I imagine that different powders work a bit different and some minor adjusting would be needed to tweak the juice. Kind of "your mileage my vary" kind of thing.
I will report back what 25 lbs does in 225 gallons. I have several pieces ready to go in as soon as the product arrives. Ill be working on the tank this weekend to get it ready to go. Shouldn't take long to cut the top out and hinge it back on.
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