Great picture and advice. 4 vers 3 point mount? I am using a hurst style on the front and planning on using the Muncie tail mount. You said side to side movement on the trans when clutch is depressed? Maybe I am missing something. I am planning on a Z bar or cable for throw out bearing. do you have more pictures of the Z bar? front Mount? What exhaust manifold di you use? Thanks
No movement with side engine mounts - stay away from front mounts. I have a Flaming River stronger Vega box and Chassis Eng. bolt on mount. The orignal box was wore out, Vega drives nice. Just adapted double D in the stock steering column. Need this box to clear the 2.5 dia Corvette Ram exhaust. This was my Dad's car - bought in 1959. It has 1940 petals - The 1939 petals - clutch pulls from right side vs left. Drake repos them. This 39 has had this Munce and 327 in it since 1969. If you use the 1939 petals vs 1940 - and reclock the arm to the 6:00 position - I think you can engage the clutch fork and not need the z-bar. I am trying to keep this car true to the early 1960's look - did not want to use a hydro-clutch set up. However - I have driven a few 1940's with it and they work well.
Next project how to shift the Columbia 2 speed rear end. Have old vaccum canister - but controls are very old and rusty. Need a cable shift or electric linear actuator - any ideas? Ring gear is 4.44 - really need over drive on the open road.
I have gotten a couple linear actuators off Amazon. Takes some looking but you can find any size or speed you need. That rear is really cool. I really appreciate all your help and info. Lots to think about and do . The car came with a new process 4speed. Kind of neat as it 1 to 1 in 3rd and 4th in over drive. Came in early 80s chevy trucks. Case is the same as a hemi 4 speed. Good if you have 410 + ratio rear.
Nice car. I have one of those transmissions, although mine came out of van. It has an iron case, and a tall, set back shifter. Not sure how it's going to work for me, when it comes time to use it.
Hi Graybeard, very nice 40 one of my favourites. For clutch operating ideas check out the hydraulic v mechanical v cable thread, I used the 39 pedals with the clutch lever reversed and extended to gain the required travel, and a ramp to guide the pull chain to the clutch fork and keep all aligned. Use modified Ford antichatter rods to the 327 to prevent front/rear movement. If you can find a T and F shifter then there is no cutting of the X member required, and a chassis engineering chassis center section will allow you to remove the Muncie if required, but bones will have to be split. For steering box clearance use late 60s pickup right hand manifold on the left side. Good luck with your project.
Thanks for the info. All things I am thinking about. It looks like the guy had a 39 pedal in the trunk as an option. What is a T and F shifter? Ford antichatter rods?
Hi Graybeard, One anti chatter rod can be seen on the left in the picture from the chassis to the engine block, to prevent forward/rear movement during clutch operation. Easy to modify a pair of original Ford ones to the Chev. I used some old spring shackles for the rod to block connection. The 39 pedal assembly is easy to adapt to a dual chamber Mustang master cylinder, chassis engineering and others make the simple adapter For the exhaust manifold to clear the original steering box, a 1968 pick up right hand side manifold Dorman 674-199 will work on the left side, there are probably others with a front facing flange. The T and F shifter is a top mounted shifter and a real problem solver, $450 for a smooth to operate shifter that places the lever near the original floor location for a 39 Ford. No need to butcher the chassis. There is some information here on the HAMB, but I think they are hard to find. All the Best
MVee33, Great pictures. Great Ideas. It seems the T and F is as rare as a hens tooth. I reached out to him and his number is no longer in service. I like that shifter. I may try and write him and see if he would share the design. I wonder if someone else has picked that up yet? Thanks!
Update on shifter relocation for the muncie and sbc in the 40 standard. I made a plate to relocate the hurst shifter up and to clear the floor and tunnel. I trimmed the tunnel lip on the bottom. The stock rods worked with a little tweaking. Reverse lever had to be flipped so reverse is now next to 2nd gear on the shifter. I uesed the offset hurst so the shifter in now centered on the trans. Now on to the clutch linkage.
I had to heat the bottom of the 4 speed Muncie shifter and reshape it to clear the seat. Got lucky - did not melt the wire for the reverse lock out and dog ears.
I too put a SBC and Muncie in a '40 Tudor. Like others, had to notch some of the cross member to clear the shifter. For clutch linkage, I used thru floor aftermarket pedal assembly made by some outfit in AZ that recently went out of biz. Too bad, as it's a pretty good product. I did not want to go hydraulic either, and going mechanical linkage turned into a nightmare because of bad misalignment of the rod from pedal lower arm to the throwout fork. Solution: A mid-60s Chev II bell clocks the fork at about 7:30 instead of the usual 9:00, effectively lowering the rod connection point. Perfect align, works great. There are still a few of those bells around.
Dammit - you've got Deluxe window garnish moldings. A full set of those and a clock are the last things I need set to convert my Standard tudor to a Deluxe, but I'm not in a rush - mine's a shell that has been apart for 40+ years and still waiting its turn to look like your pics.
hello sbc in a 35-40, just been reading up on it. mechanical fuel pump fouls on crossmember? - where did I read that there are now fuel pumps with built in regulators / returns? for carburettor pressures? - do these live in the tank? or outside with a return to the tank? you are not advised to use an aluminium bellhousing with a hurst front mount? - is it because it rips the threads out of the bell housing? or just cracks them? - finned alloy oil pans are a no-go , no clearance, stick with a tin one.? harmonic damper is stumping me as I think there are large and small diameters? is this something to do withearly and late engines? this battery tray too low? if I have a 68 153t bell house and Muncie t5 with s10 tail, do I aim to get the trans mount on the stock 35-40 crossmember thing.
Not that it matters to your question, but I think you have a Standard not a Deluxe. @olscrounger would know for sure.
I am using a Hurst style front mount and it is in the way of the fuel pump. I am using an electric one mounted out side the tank. A lot of guys have advised against using an aluminum bell because it stressed it a bit being spread so far out. I have built a mid stabilizer mount to help with that. I am using a stock tin pan, no clearance issues with speedway rubber mount kit that fits in stock ford mount holes. Add a 3/4 in spacer to raise Hurst mount and all fits well including the large harmonic balancer. The original trans mount I cut out, and built a new one that centers the M20 trans perfect in the hole. I trimmed some of the tunnel lip to help with clearance. The shifter relocation did the job so no cutting into the cross frame or boxing needed. The stock 40 clutch peddle was used and I made the link to it 1in taller to help with geometry. Offset heim and it is a straight shot to the Z-bar that came from a Chevelle and I took 2 1/4in out of. Clutch works well. Your Battery box looks good to me. Mine is a bit higher but I don't see that it matters.
Hi Just saw your hurst mounted SBC in a 40 Ford. I am building a 39 coupe with one. Would like to ask did you put in mid mounts at the back to support the trans bell housing? If so do you have any pics? Cheers
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