Alright so I actually bolted something together for 6 ball I marked the center most mount- hiem joint?- from the inside with sharpie and used a center punch. Then drilled a pilot hole. took the intake off and started holding every together to mark the second hole. Used a step bit to pop it up to size and then drilled the hole for the linkage to pass threw. What I’m using for stand offs were originally used turned around more like a washer to hold the carpet and firewall insulation down. So my bolts are to short by about 1/4 inch to bolt to the firewall. They Lon pretty much flush to the end of the cups. im trying to decide if I want to find some longer joints to use or if I want to use/ make what amounts to a threaded insert with a rounded/ button Allen head. Then they read more like a rivet at a glance. Edit: I googled female Allen head bolt and what I had in mind popped up so I guess that’s a real option if my favorite hardware store was open for walk in traffic id go browse then bins for a half hour and find my solution. probably still will by the time I’m back to work and have a few bucks for hardware they’ll be back to having the showroom open. not sure whats next on the list of stuff to dick around with without spending money. I guess I have the intake off so I could drill the firewall maybe I’ll file all the casting parting lines down and the lettering off it and make a block off plate for the old heat riser.
Looks like we are going to have a few days of sun and low 60s. Might get some gluing and blasting done.
Knocked the big horizontal parting line flash off the intake as well as the part numbers. I left the firing order numbers because I thought it was kinda cool. filed he holes on the adapter so it fit a little better and have been trying to figure out what thread the carb base bolts are. Not having any luck with fitting anything in it and am thinking I’ll grab my taps and see if any of those fit. Maybe it’s just one thing weird. made a quick cardboard template for the heat riser block off plate and threw it back on the car. I notice a threaded hole and bolt on the outside of the manifold that must have just held something at some point but otherwise serves no purpose. I’m thinking I’ll put a tab washer on it to hook a return spring and then weld a little ear to the linkage rod for it to attach to. Should be clean enough and I like the idea of the spring being close to the carb instead of close to the pedal. last thing I did was pry the valve cover off. Yup. Pry. It seems when I was hammering the firewall it tweaks just enough that it touches the top of the valve cover and that fucker did NOT want to come off. Well I got it off and threw some jb weld in the pits of the weld to try and even it out so I can sand it down and paint it all this week. I’m mulling over plans for clearancing the firewall for the valve cover. The stock cover has miles of room but it’s unforgivably ugly and the nice one 12bolt Tom makes it’s just the wrong style for this by a long ways. I had considered cutting half of a headlight bucket off and putting that into the firewall to clear. If I don’t have one the right size hammering a round shape out. but it seems most likely that maybe I’ll just cut three side free and bend it out of the way and then weld in a filler. though with such a small area I’m wondering if just cutting that 4th side and just making a new filler piece so that you only have one seam to weld would be worth the effort. dunno. Guess we’ll find out soon enough. Hope you guys are doing well and finding something to keep your mind off... well pretty much everything. Happy Easter.
The guy with the crate Chevy behind us all will be like “what the fuck man , slow traffic in the right lane!”
truth be told I think you’d be the quickest if you can break your engine out of jail. Purser beats on that Flathead harder than any crate engine dude I’ve ever seen so in all reality I doubt that slow lane scenario would happen. still up for 4 lanes of racing
I'm in! Well pass them at the gas stations. Only one guy in the world gets to have the fastest car. The rest of us need to find a way to enjoy what we have.
Got a tiny bit “done” today. Painted the valve cover, I used a hammer tone silver metallic paint and it looks perfect. Very happy with it so far. You can see a little where I sectioned the valve cover but it just looks like an old repair which I’m fine with. There are a few tiny pieces that I need to go back with a small file or maybe a dremel and smooth out some transitions that seem obvious but over all I’m happy and a little touch up later after some more sanding is fine. I also pulled the water neck off the head, bolted the thermostat housing/ water neck on and took a grinder to the back side. Even the stock valve cover wanted to hit that dang thing and I see spacers available so it must be common. Either way I shaved about 1/8 inch at most off and leveled the surface for clearance. Happy it went well and fast as I’ve thought about it for a long time. also mocked up a Z in the throttle linkage. I have a couple rods with disconnect ends around and this one seems the flimsiest so I sacrificed it for mock up. The Z is stretched out a bit because it’s actually slanted when on the car. It drops the rod down about an inch and over an inch at the same time. No real easy way to have moved the pedal to make it a straight shot so this is my “compromise” to make it work how I want. Probably Mess with it more but for now the idea is sound. also mocked up one of my steel running board and found it’s closer than I thought it was. I think previously I had it in the wrong side or turned 180 out. Dunno, something wonky but it fits now just need to alter the other side and I’ll have steel boards!
I would be down for a little acceleration contest. Lump ported head with a decent healthy cam, 2x2 intake, somewhere between 9-10:1 compression with a 5 speed in a little roadster pick up will have a little zip. The 6.00-17 tires may be a limiting point. First I would have to get the carbs dialed in which could take as long as getting my engine back. You will probably have yours on the road first the way it is going.
I think drivetrain wise we will end up very similar. I should land in that same 10 ish compression, 3/4 ish cam, bigger carb set up. The difference will be me waiting around on making head mods because it seems the only way that really makes noticeable difference is having Tom do a head and it’s currently way out budget. a read a good book on doing head work but it felt like if I didn’t know exactly what I was doing or didn’t build a flow bench that it was unlikely to help any. I might end up just having bigger valves put in and a 3 angle valve job. Call it a day. I guess we’ll see what happens. I’d thought about a 181 head but I see people saying port velocity of the smaller 153 head is better? either way it’s a lot of thinking and conversation over like 40 hp which percentage wise is a lot but other wise is kinda funny. what rear gear are you running?
3.78. I can’t wait to save up enough cash to get this Anson head fixed and build another four-cylinder.
Same gear I’m going to run with a 750-16 but with a 39 trans with 46 gears. I’m excited to see what comes of that ansen set up! I’ve day dreamed about doing a small block head but that’s all it is for now
I think we could all appreciate some dreaming right now. anyhow not much today. last night I played with the running boards a bit and found 2 things. 1: they do actually fit up size wise pretty Good. They don’t measure the same as the repops online or a few Ive measures in person in some aspects. But they fill the gap so it works for me. I see people slicing and dicing repop stuff to make it work all the time, and we have all bought old ford stuff that just doesn’t match up to the rest. Anyhow... 2. the bolts on these have always made me scratch my head. They are scratch made and made wider in back for a widend fender but the holes for the back running board bracket is way way off. well I got to thinking and recalled there being a correct right and left hand rear running f board brackets. So I thought hey maybe they are slightly angled, if they got put on the wrong side and the angle is say 1/2 inch they would be about an inch off on the wrong side. So I grabbed some shitty ones out of my scrap pile, you don’t actually throw stuff away do you? And stuck them on the bench to see if they leaned together or apart or were parallel. well clearly one of them is bent all to hell and that’s why it’s in the scrap pile but the other which seems to be un altered does lean! So may have to just swap them side to side and see what lines up. also took a quick photo of the size cover and the newly painted valve cover to se how they look together. I can dig it. Trying to decide what color the intake/ header/ block will be. leaning towards the intake being block color and the header a similar silver tone to the covers and carb adapter. what the block color will be is up in the air. I like the funny ford olive but think it clashes with the dutches blue the car will be. I think red hot rod engines are cool but it might be to bright? black is the last option but I’m not “in love” with it as of yet. I mean hot rod engines are red right? Wonders where that came from anyways...
I've seen a few hot rod engines that were red hot. Mine is black but I'm not in love with it. At least it was the lat time I saw it.
The Jalopy Journal
