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Technical 48 Stylemaster Front Suspension Swap? 49-54 Chevrolet Stuff??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pzary3233, Apr 13, 2020.

  1. pzary3233
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 51

    pzary3233
    Member

    First, I do not really want to go with a Mustang II front end. I really never felt they were ever just right. I would like to keep the car pretty traditional. If it didn't happen before 1965 I probably won't have it on the car. My original thought was to restore the original IFS, upgrade to 49-54 drums and a 55 chevy rear axle with open driveline and just drive the car. However, after poking around the front suspension crossmember is rusted completely out. basically from control arm mount to control arm mount. That's what I get for buying sight unseen (but I'm not the least bit mad).

    So here's the question. I keep looking at the 49-54 front suspension crossmembers and thinking that they must be REALLY close to working on my 48 chassis. I have seen a few post here on the HAMB but nothing more than some suggests trying it. This would get rid of the upper control arm/shock deal and allow me to have some easily replaceable parts. I would also get the side benefit of lowering the car. I do not have a 49-54 car or the parts in front of me. the 48 Chassis measures 29" from outside of frame lip to outside. What about a 49-54 Chevrolet? Has anyone actually done the swap? I am thinking of keeping the original steering from the 48 rather than the centered steering from the newer car? Am I crazy for thinking of doing it this way and just replace the stock crossmember and carry on?

    Here are some pics of what I am working with at the moment.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And lastly the carnage
    [​IMG]
     
    Hnstray and VANDENPLAS like this.
  2. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,324

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Sounds like a good idea . I think the 53 / 54 sit slightly lower , kind of a "dropped spindle " deal.
    Hope the measurements are good , it be great if it was a bolt in ( or a least close )
     
    Stogy likes this.
  3. The 49-54 front cross members are all identical
    53-54 have the uprights slightly lower then earlier cars.
    52-53 they switched over to bendix brakes
    Parts are cheap and easy to find
    I would keep the center steer and all related parts if you can.
    The corvettes used a bearing instead of a blushing fit the center pivot
    You can also buy a “stiffening brace” basically a cup that bolts over the center pivot to help stiffen it.
    49-54 front suspensions are cheap to buy as a lot of guys swap it out for IFS
    i rebuilt my stock front end in my 50 with 54 uprights, brakes and the corvette pivot bearing.
    Then sold it and installed a jag ifs set up.
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  4. pzary3233
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 51

    pzary3233
    Member

    Thanks for the insight Vanenplas!
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.

  5. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,850

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    while the frames are not exactly the same I would bet they are the same in the spot where the suspension would go. you may have to use the 49-54 steering box to use the "centerpoint" steering. I am not familiar with the 48 steering design. also the motor mounts are on the crossmember rather than the frame, which may or may not be an issue.

    I saw one on a mid 30's Chevrolet pickup a few years back, which has a completely different frame design,, C-channel vs the "top hat" frame of the passenger cars. I figure they could be adapted to fit a lot of cars.

    I like MII on these cars. FATMAN makes an ultra low crossmember that lowers these quite a bit. for me money spent on stock suspension would be better put towards MII for these particular cars.

    if you do go with this front end, FATMAN makes dropped uprights for 2" drop (?) pretty sure it is 2", and everybody and thier brother makes disc brake brackets if that is in the plans. rebuild parts are a close as your computer
     
  6. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    upload_2020-4-14_9-50-28.png
    1942-48 Front suspension. Rear mounted steering box with cross steer
    49.jpg
    1949-54 front suspension. High mounted rear steering box with push pull to idler arm
     
    Stogy likes this.
  7. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,444

    Squablow
    Member

    Damn, that crossmember hole is crazy! I thought I'd seen it all here in salty, wet Wisconsin but that is wild.

    Can't help with input on whether the swap would work or not, but I appreciate your desire to stay period-correct.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  8. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,595

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    Looking at both suspensions it looks like the original steering box could possibly work with the 49-54 suspension.
     
  9. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Looking carefully at the overhead views of the two cross members, you will see the 'sweep' of the cross members are different and the relationship of the front motor mounts to spindle center line is significantly different. That means when the later cross member is installed with the spindle center line in the same location, which it needs to be, it appears to me the new cross member front motor mount location will be well forward of the engine mounts.

    There are significant changes between '42/'48 and the '49/'54 core support, cowl and engine positioning dimensions. It does appear from the photos that the frame rail height in relation to spindle center line is about the same.

    None of this is insurmountable, but the photos suggest it's more than just about a 'bolt in'. The steering box/linkage is another interesting question. Personally, I have never been a fan of the '49/'54 setup. Too many moving parts in the newer version and, having owned both designs some years ago, I don't recall any particular steering/driving advantage of one over the other. If the original steering linkage can be readily adapted to the later cross member, that's what I would do.

    On the other hand, it will be a lot of work for very little real gain. There are alternatives to this that may well be worth considering.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2020
  10. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    upload_2020-4-14_16-43-37.png
    Early box is cross steer, sweeps sideways (Left to right)
    upload_2020-4-14_16-44-44.png
    Later box is push - pull and sweeps front to back (Lengthwise) similar to truck box (Side steer)
     
  11. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,413

    southcross2631
    Member

    Rebuild the original crossmember. It is just metal . Cut the rust out and see if the top is rusted. If you find solid metal then weld to that.
    Otherwise you could go to Speedway for aftermarket control arms and build your own front suspension. Change out the steering to really make it an upgrade rather than a crutch to keep it pre 65.
    Look at a Corvair front cross member. I had a friend that had a 47 Chevy with a Corvair front end and drove it for over 20 years like that.
     
    partsdawg likes this.
  12. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,304

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    That's a HOLE... I am from the same thought line as the m2 crap just doesn't belong. After struggling with a decision on my 53 I kept the orig. suspension. Works great now that I have it on the road, just need to rebuild the centerlink. SO here is my recommendations to you.

    Option 1 You can find a 49-54 front suspension and bolt it on, only thing you have to do is swap boxes and maybe some changes for the column. I THINK its a direct swap honestly.

    Option 2, cut out the crap metal on yours, replace with new 3/16 plate and rebuild stock components.

    Option 1 will net you a bit better suspension and steering as the centerlink style was created to fix a bump steer problem seen on the cross steer ones like you have. Plus you can find them locally for people pulling them out to do m2 swaps, couple hundred bucks and its a nice upgrade. Option 2 keeps more originality to the car, littler harder for parts on some things i would think. BUT other than that, car looks like a cool start for sure. They used this front suspension in the 49-54 fullsize in the corvette till 60 maybe 62 if I am right? It did something right...
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  13. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,981

    sliceddeuce
    Member

  14. pzary3233
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 51

    pzary3233
    Member

    After seeing the photos above, which was one of the things I was looking for it looks like you'll get into some fabrication on the radiator support area to make it all work as the front crossmember of the 49-54 takes a lot more room up forward. After a quick eyeball, it looks like the motor mounts wouldn't even be on the 49-53 crossmember maybe in the flange area but not in the meat of the crossmember and interfering with the steering. Alas, great idea in theory but once I saw the photos above it doesn't look like what I am looking for.
     
  15. bill gruendeman
    Joined: Jun 18, 2019
    Posts: 833

    bill gruendeman
    Member

    Dam that is some power washer you have, you blow a hole in the x member!!! I think the ez route would be is take your forklift and pick up and the car remove the front suspension. Cut out the rusted bottom plate back to the control arms and replace with new metal (1/8 maybe) and rebuilding the stock steering.
     
  16. pzary3233
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 51

    pzary3233
    Member

    I'm thinking 3/16 plate and also reinforce the mounting areas as much as possible could get the job done. Though I have a line on another crossmember so we will wee.

    Yeah, the pressure washer is pretty good 6000psi steam cleaner will do some damage.
     

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