Technical hidden bolts in concrete floor; how to do it???

I've got one of those cheapie tire machines. Don't know what brand it is 'cause I bought it at a swap meet about 20 years ago. It looks just like the HF model shown below though.

I want to put 4 anchors in the middle of my concrete shop floor that I can use to bolt this to when I need to use it. BUT, 99.99% of the time I won't want it there. So I need a way to put bolts into the anchors but not have the bolt heads stick up where I would trip on them. If there're no bolts in the empty anchors in about 3 days the holes will be full of dirt/grit and no bolt would ever go into the anchor again.

I've had this thing bolted to a pallet ever since I bought it, but I need the floor space and want to get it off of the pallet.

I'm thinking if I had a masonry drill bit larger than the bolt head (and appropriate sized socket) I could just countersink the bolts down into the concrete to where the bolt head is flush with the surrounding concrete. Unfortunately I don't have any such animal and don't really want to put out the ca$h to buy one to countersink 4 holes.

Anyone got any better suggestions than buying a drill bit?

 

Check with Lowes or Menards and look in their cement section and see what they use to anchor things in cement.

 

put four set screws into the anchors when you're not using the thing. You can make them by cutting the heads off bolts, and cutting a slot in the end with a hacksaw.

I put my tire machine like that outside on the concrete pad in front of my shop, off to one side. Doesn't get in the way there.

 

What Squirrel just said. ^^^

Look for a female threaded drop in anchor. Hilti makes different sizes. Plenty strong once set.

It makes sense to machine a screwdriver tanged top .. to replace the bolt. Thanks for the idea, Squirrel.

Don't know my practical use for it .. but definitely filed away for future use. Keeping it simple, right ?

 

When I worked for the state we had anchors recessed in the cement with a flip top and some had square cover that fit recessed flush with the floor . Flip tops kept dirt, foreign objects etc out . Flat recessed covers just had a hole in the middle to stick your finger in .

 

Suggest looking at a HILTI catalog for flush concrete inserts. They work just like any insert, except they are "innies" as opposed to "outies", & you use bolts to retain your tire machine, & have a flush surface when you remove them. I would also suggest using allen set screws in the holes when the machine is in storage, to keep dirt out of the holes. It's really a lot simpler/easier than it sounds!! LOL!

 

Nobody say anything about sticking “your finger in the hole”

 

https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners

 

these guys

you can rent a larger concrete drill bit to counter sink the hole so the bolt head sits flush to the floor once you thread it back into the insert
Or carefully chisel a recess in
Only gotta go down the thickness of the bolt head.
And like squirrel said, use a hack saw and cut a line in the top of the bolt so you can unscrew it with a screw driver once it’s in flush.

or be fancy and use Allen head bolts !!

 

Go Dutch...

 

also, check Grainger and other hardware supply locations for Red Head concrete anchor fasteners

 

Recess the anchors slightly and use rounded head Allen bolts.
VANDENPLAS, I missed your last line.

 

Years ago at work we put lead sleeves in the hole and then thread a Lag bolt into that which can then be unscrewed leaving the sleeve in place.

 

Put a plastic plug in that pulls out easy.

 

Atch pm me. I have the drill and bits. Would be glad to help do it. I'm just a few miles away.

 

I would use anti seize on the bolt threads when you screw them in. It will help keep them from binding up with the grit from the floor that will find its way into the socket threads.

 

I used those inserts on my floor. When I need to use them I just blow it our with my air compressor.

 

"Set-screw" type allen will thread down into floor-anchored nut of about any size you want. (You'll probably have to clean the dirt out of the end of it when you want to get the allen wrench in it for removal.)

 

Thats what I used. Small ones from hydraulic fittings work perfect.

 

https://nicholasfluhart.com/2009/12/13/manual-tire-changer/amp/

This is everything mentioned above with pics and explanation. Doing exactly what you want to do.

 

Like a few have said. Flush shell anchors are the cat’s ass.

 

I bolted mine to a 4 x 4 foot sheet of 3/4" plywood with stove bolts, got it standing in the shop corner with the more H.D. H.F. bead breaker. Put it where you want when using it, just make sure your standing on the plywood base.
Works for me

I have even borrowed it out.

 

This is the answer and really the best solution from all the suggestions.

I installed them in my garage and then I put the same bases on many other shop tools so that I can use the same anchors for multiple uses.
1) my JD2 tubing bender
2) my power bead roller
You get the idea.

 

Thanx everyone for your replies. I hadn't thought of hacksawing a slot in a bolt or using allen head set screws.

I like those ideas.

I had thought of putting it on the concrete apron outside but I've seen several of them that rusted up pretty badly when put outside. Besides, about the only place out there on concrete is where I store firewood.

 

That's pretty much what I have now except it's a pallet instead of plywood. And yes, you HAVE to be standing on the pallet when using it.

 

hacksawing a slot in a bolt That is what I thought everybody used for transmission install guide pins, works like a good helper that half knows what he's doing!

 

Not sure if everyone does, but I certainly do. They work slicker than owl shit on a green hickory limb.

 

X2 I did the same thing...

 

I’m just wondering why when I start a thread like this somebody reports it and then it says oh this would be better for garage journal and shut it down.

Is that just me

 

Maybe you have a fan.