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Projects Joe's American Graffiti Coupe with a Man A Fre (Milner Coupe Clone)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Nicholas Coe, Feb 22, 2020.

  1. Hahahahaha. Good eyes! I got that one covered as well. Thanks for the advice my friend.

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  2. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,215

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Meh .....
     
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  3. Now cleaning everything up for the new gaskets. Looks like the valve cover gaskets were glued to the heads. That is adding more fun to the experience. Anyone got a good idea for removing cork gaskets from cast iron heads? A razor blade has been my only tool so far. IMG_20200413_143536.jpeg

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  4. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    Stanley blade (utility)
     
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  5. Ok. Going to buy one now. Thanks!

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  6. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    get the handle too.i use this for cleaning the glass on my stove[/ATTACH] stanley scraper 004.JPG stanley scraper 001.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. Had the intake manifold machined. The guy said it was pretty warped. The shop owner said it took 3 hours to position it multiple times to get it done right. They removed 20 thousandths to get it squared. He said it was down in the middle and raised in the corners. That makes perfect sense.
    IMG_0051.jpeg

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  9. ottoman
    Joined: May 4, 2008
    Posts: 341

    ottoman
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Make sure you sit in on the engine with the intake gaskets and check the clearance on the front and rear of the manifold to the block. Taking .020 off will lower the manifold and shrink this clearance
     
  10. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,127

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    I hope they matched the ends also. But just use silicone instead of the rubber seals and it should be fine.
     
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  11. Will do. Thanks!

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  12. Yes they did. The work looks amazing. I definitely avoid the cork stuff on the ends....

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  13. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

     
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  15. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

    I forgot the best tool do you have one of those oscillating multi tools use the knife blade. They are a work saver for many things about $20-$30 at Harbor freight on up for cordless. PS I'm pretty sure I don't have alzheimers but I may have halfheimers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2020
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  16. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,467

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is a link to my build http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/garagefind-survivor-40-coupe-build.944754/. Check out post #133. My point is that I know why the machining was necessary : it is because I had the block decked .020" and the heads milled .020". This was optimal for my circumstance i.e. the ports lined up great and so did the manifold bolts. I just checked the gap between head and manifold with feeler and got .050/.052" ,which is probably around .055"-.058" uncompressed.
    It seems to me, from the machining pattern that you would have had a vacuum leak instead of a water seepage. Confusing.
     
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  17. Thank you for your comments. The intake manifold was originally removed and resealed due to possible vacuum leaks. After resealing we noticed the coolant seepage. There probably was still vacuum leaks as well. Hopefully this time things will go really well. Hopefully our bolt holes and ports will line up better this time too. I'm also going with a different gasket with slightly smaller port openings. I think I'll used Felpro 1256.

    Outstanding car and build thread by the way!
    One day my car will be that nice.

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    Last edited: Apr 14, 2020
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  18. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,467

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'll look at the 1256 for thickness, as I have to machine my man a fre like the C4b I have on the car now.
     
  19. Surely we won't need to use the double thick gaskets. Mr. Gasket has them for SBC part #101 I think. I can't wait to see your car with a Man a Fre. That would really look Badass. Nothing cooler in my opinion.

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    Last edited: May 4, 2020
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  20. Dennis D
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 851

    Dennis D
    Member

    After you set the intake on, make sure the underside of the intake bolt heads are contacting the intake flush. Also, make sure that none of them are bottoming out if going into a blind hole. D
     
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  21. Will do. Thank you!

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  22. Cleaning RTV silicone from bolt threads is not fun.
    I really don't want to do this again! IMG_20200414_230652.jpeg

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  23. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,600

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Should have put them in an empty (soup) can with gasoline a day or two ago.
     
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  24. I bet that would have helped! Oh the pains of inexperience....

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  25. Nicholas ,
    I’m really proud of you,,,,,,a lot of guys would have given up by now .
    You have been fighting this for almost 2 months,,,,,but you have kept trying .
    I’m sure the previous owner had the same issue and just didn’t know what to do to fix it.
    You kept plugging away,,,and didn’t quit .

    You will have an excellent intake after this,,,those Man a fre systems are one of the baddest looking outfits you could have,,,,,and run really good too .

    Like I said,,,,,you kept trying,,,,,and now you should reap the rewards!
    It should run like a scalded dog after this .
    Oh yeah,,,,,listen to Moriarity,,,,,he knows how to tune these very well !

    Tommy
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
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  26. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,215

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    The upside of that manifold is you certainly won't have a problem checking port/ gasket alignment !!
    FWIW I have been using blue loctite on intake bolt threads for some time now , seals threads ,remains tight , no worry about electrolysis ...
     
  27. We absolutely will follow his guidance regarding tuning. Thank you so much for the compliment. I've actually been fighting this battle since October!

    I was taught day after day by my parents and grandparents to never quit. Lose if you must but never ever quit. My father's old buddy would always say "If it was easy then everyone would do it." I guess that's true.

    I would be completely lost if it wasn't for people like you. Thanks to you and the HAMB family I have a fighting chance. I'm so proud of our work. Thank you and God bless.

    Nick

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  28. Yes sir. I have a tube of that and also one of the GM assembly adhesive/sealant. Thanks so much for the tip!

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  29. So I've got to replace the leaking chrome thermostat housing again. Previously it didn't have an O ring so the previous owner filled that gap with RTV silicone and added a paper gasket. It leaked. We tried that method again and it leaked.

    Should I just use the new housing with an O ring alone? Should I add extra silicone? The manifold is pretty tough in that area. I read that I should only tighten that down to 20 lbs/ft. Correct?
    Should I seal the thermostat down with silicone?

    Here's a pic of the old housing. The new one and the manifold. IMG_20200415_194842.jpeg IMG_20200415_194850.jpeg IMG_20200415_194900.jpeg IMG_20200415_194831.jpeg

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  30. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,215

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Because of the condition of the manifold , I'd put a bead of silicone/right stuff on the manifold and leave the o ring , snug it down , torque after 24 hrs., you can clean up excess silicone wet with denatured alcohol , dry with a razor blade and patience .....
     
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