So I’ve put the rear end of my 32 roadster together after a lot of small repairs and have come to look at the fit for the deck lid to check shut lines. Perfect down the sides but too long top to bottom by around 1/32” or maybe a bit more. I’ve been searching for a build thread or tech article that covers adjusting a deck lid for fit. I’m reluctant to just go at it purely because it’s new and cost more than my first car.... Anyone help? Just a link to an article or any pictures you might have. Many thanks. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Does your measurement of 1/32" allow for opening clearances or is that the total amount you need to have space for?
I’m going to change my question as I haven’t hinged it yet - how much clearance should there be top and bottom?? I’d been working on the same gap all round, but everything seems top and bottom. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I think I’d shove the tulip panel rearward and the lower panel upward each a 64th. That should take care of your 32nd discrepancy. A little high build primer should even out the beltlines.
Thanks. Could anyone with a built car give me an idea of the gap size top and bottom - in particular at the top edge for clearance? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
You have to remember that gaps were not really standardized until much later. Most rumble seat seem to have a larger gap on the bottom.
When I built my first Brookville roadster from pieces and the subsequent several to follow I just fit the lids so they looked good to my eye. Each car was painted black which helped blend the gaps.
I was being facetious about adjusting the panels a 64th of an inch. If I was 1/32 out on a decklid gap I'd count my lucky stars.
The gaps are funky, I like to get about 1/4" down each side, and about 1/4" across the top, [I use later "outside" trunk hinges so the deck rotates away and up from the tulip so it doesn't need a big gap]... the bottom is about 1/4" but that depends where you are standing... Up close you see the gap but because the deck was meant to be a trunk or a rumble it had to be able rotate within itself... step back and the gap disappears ... the arch across the lower deck edge and lower panel should match... get them close, step back and take a good look ... either it is close enough or it is not... I know that I have a rusty, dented and abandoned tin take on this, as the parts I play with will never be the pristine tin we lust... another thought was one of the aftermarket panel below the decks I bought was at least 1/8" too narrow, is your lower panel new ? could it be too short / shallow ? my $0.02.
I figured that. My car was ‘built’ by a guy who threw weld at it that looked like bird shit then filled the holes with bondo. I’ve had to repair as I go, but have to ask basic questions because I have no real reference for how panels fit. Can’t believe how hard it is to find close up pictures of such a regularly built car!!! I have new uapac panels above and below and the new brookville deck, and was hoping not to have to cut them as I can’t figure the right location and clearance at the top of the deck in particular to make sure if I do get it mounted it doesn’t just hit the top panel. I was asking about the deck because I also have new brookville doors. One is 1/4” longer than the other and neither have the skins in square (skins come loose in the frame). I’m lining up body lines then re-fitting the skins. I never expected it to be easy, just didn’t expect the tiniest details to throw me off course so easily! I understand now why so many never get finished. I need this one for my daughters prom next year. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Let's get this straight. You're working on an eighty-eight year old car and worried about a 1/32" dimension?
Not quite. I’m working on a pile of panels someone messed up that I’m trying to get together as a car and I’m after advice. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Back to my original question - if anyone has fitted a brookville trunk lid - do they need the skins reworking to fit usually? My doors fitted like ten pounds of shit in a five pound bag so I thought the deck lid might be similar..... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
since you cant see the top and bottom opening together I wouldn't worry about a small difference in the gaps,when ure driving along that will be soon forgotten.
You should have the body bolted down and sitting level first,if it isnt sitting how its going to end up,the gaps will change as soon as you start to tighten it down.position the body at the height it will be when it is on its wheels,then make the gaps look good,it might have to be wider at the top for the lid to clear the body? or maybe the other way around.These cars didnt have perfect gaps when they were new,any of them with good gaps have been played with some. harvey
Jasper My trunk lid is 88 years old and was a real struggle. Not sure if this will help you but you can read about it on post 120, page 4 of my build thread “32 Ford 3 Window Build Finish Details”. If it is not helpful at least you can read it some night when you cannot fall asleep Greg
You say you have UPAC tulip and lower panels? I didn't know they made panels for roadsters. And you do know that coupe lower deck panels are different length than roadster, right?
Considering the cost of Brookville panels, it is a shame that, in the 21st century with everything laser -guided and computerized that they don't seem to make uniform parts. mean, two roadster doors and a deck panel are what,$3K? Seems a bit shameful. I could, I think, understand if the two doors didn't quite match Henry steel, but to not match each other is really not right.
I have 1/8" to 3/16" gap at top and sides of lid on my Brookville. Top gap is set by their placement of the hinge pins and I adjusted left/right adjustment with nylon washers.
Thanks for the pictures. I’ve been working on it all day and have squared the top edge: What I have noticed now is that when he fitted the rain channels, he seems to have hammered the top of the quarter down, which has then pushed it inwards and downwards - screwing up the lines completely and creating a series of flat spots along the curve: It’s driving me nuts. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So when the car is for sale and some chainer says "Well, since its homebuilt, you can't count your labor costs." And then wonders why you punch him in the face. I was all over the place measuring restored A's before putting my Brookville lid on the coupster. Hinge holes weren't drilled. blah. blah. You'll get it right and know it's right and no one else will notice. Hang in there. Pun?
I have used yellow plastic bondo paddles very successfully. They are tapered so you can cut to fit your gap wanted. A piece of 5/8-3/4" rubber hose over drip/gutter edge helps too to raise the lid to desired position. A piece of hose across the bottom body helps setting it's margin. Then it's a tedious crap shoot along with some "words" to set the hinge pins. And the bondo paddles come in different colors / thickness to act as guides for the lid to settle in when closed. Been there done it and it is poor to today's fit finish standards. Henry didn't care. Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have fit a couple originals and b-vills #1 Fords factory gaps and panels are inconstant. I have made patterns from one side and fit them on the other side and have found parts as much as a 1/4 inch off in length. You mentioned the doors. 32 doors are aligned with the bolt on the cowl that has a spring on it. This adjusts the door gap and widens/narrows the door opening. Also playing with shins under body mount locations will open and close the door opening or change how the door aligns at the belt line. Your trunk. I have had to “massage” qtr gaps to open them up to fit the deck lid. A hammer with a block of wood and a porta power/monkey on a stick will open up the side to side gap. Also the braces attaching the qtr to the sub rail can affect this gap. The curvature of the decklid can be changed. I have changed that arc by a little force and by using a shrinker stretcher. The arc can be moved upward with a shrinker or by placing a block of wood under the low area and pressing down on the end of the decklid. The arc can be moved downward by placing a block of wood under the end of the decklid and pressing down on the high area. I will press with a block of wood on the edge to prevent damage to the decklid. A stretcher in the high area will also do this. Remember, when you change the arc, you affect the overall length or fit at the rear panel. The rear panel can be adjusted and change the arc how it fits the decklid with wood/hammer massaging Align at the tulip panel and work to the rear panel. When folks complain about b-ville parts fitment remember they are trying to build a part that fits an inconsistent original body and their modern designed body.
Upac does not make tulip panel or lower deck lid panel for roadsters. They make parts for 5w's Alchemy is right the lower deck lid panel is about a quarter inch shorter on a roadster. I can get measurements tomorrow for both off of original bodies
Thanks guys. The measurement for the lower panel would be a huge help. I’m hoping I have the right one, but sounds like maybe not. That would be a major bummer. I gave the panels on one side a very light push last night with a porta power and it’s not so far off now. I think I need to loosen the gutter part way down with a slitting disc, give it another very gentle push and re-weld. I wasn’t criticising brookville by the way - more frustrated by my own lack of skill. The skins are loose on both doors to allow them to be removed and fitted to suit I guess. One is 5mm longer than the other at the top and 8mm at the bottom, and isn’t square. As above, not very cheap - especially when you’re in the UK, have to ship and every tax man between here and there takes a bite out your ass. This car hasn’t given me a single break. I seriously think if you knew what you were getting into, you’d do something else!!!!!! I’ll go through each of the steps above. If the lower panel is a bit too long, I’ll have to shorten it. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I just checked the uapac site, and they list the rear lower panel as being the same for the 5 window and roadster? Is that wrong? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I have removed a b-ville roadster door skin. I did get one that was off a lot. I aligned the door as best as possible and scribed a line in the door skin for my new gap. I removed the skin and carefully hammered the flange straight. Made a new bend on my scribe line and reinstalled the skin. It sucks to do this work on a new part but it’s still less work than repairing a beat/rotted original.
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