Technical 55 Chevy H/T roof

My stuff is all post-sedan which is quite a bit different. Once you have all the windows cut out and the trim off, the spot welds holding the A pillars together will be pretty obvious and I think they slide in and out of each other like a sleeve so alignment would be pretty easy, and the rear pillars are several layers spotted together but still way less work to swap the whole roof at the pillar area than to skin it and swap in part of the inner structure. I had to do some work on the drip rail area of my '57 and it's several layers stacked together and spotted, it's a real pain to get that stuff apart without hurting the sheetmetal. Much easier to work at the posts.

There were guys building '57 convertibles based on sedan firewalls and they were splicing the convertible windshield hoop onto the sedan cowl at the pillars, if you can find some in-progress pics of one of those builds, you'll be able to see where the pillars come apart.

 

Lots of good advice on this topic. I believe I will tag along to see where it leads, as I have a '52 Buick hardtop Special that I may want to go this route instead of trying to repair the roof that someone used as a trampoline!

 

I been doing a lot of thinking and I think I'm going to attempt to cut the old skin off and straighten the roof frame. I'm thinking with a porta power and a slight amount of heat I can get it belongs.

 

You may be able to straighten all of that out without replacing the roof panel, if that is all of the damage you are showing in the pictures. Get the roof rail straight first, and then go after the roof panel. My Mercury had damage almost that bad on both sides, from a clamp-on roof rack. If you wind up needing to replace the roof panel, remember to try and cut the structure from the used panel, instead of the other way around. A 4 ton porto-power pushing up on a piece of C channel might work wonders, and some gentle work with some wide pry tools. Here is some inspiration if you haven't seen it before.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...del-a-pickup-cab.1143362/page-9#post-13469273

 

Depending how much donor you have, measure 100 times, cut the whole roof off at a and b pillars. drop a rod down the formed holes for some reinforcement and alignment assistance and drop the new roof on, Youll end up with about 2 inches of metal to finish, and 90% of that will have stainless covering it.

I had a 57 that had horrible floors, like fred flintstone floors. We cut it across back seat and A pillars and swapped in a new floor. about as easy as you can get it.

 

I'm about positive I can save the structure. I think the sheet metal is doomed. If I was hard pressed it could probably be saved but a whole lot of metal shrinking and man hours. then there is the screwed up drip rail. Yes I think the easiest way would be to cut the A and C pillars. I just hate to do that to a 55 though. I can do the job as I have 10 years in a shop and been doing these cars for about 50 + years. But like I tell other people just because you can do something don't necessarily mean you should. I do have the whole complete roof on the 55 Pontiac H/T. I would love to straighten the structure and skin the roof. But it sure would be a pain to detach the skin from the drip rails. The front and rear can be drilled from the underside. I hope to get started on this by the end of the week.

 

I tried to save the roof frame but it was going to be too much work so I went back to my original plan and am replacing the whole roof. A little more fitting on the A pillars and I will send roof to the blaster and then seal with epoxy primer (DP90) If things go well I should have it welded in place by the end of next week.

 

Now you're on the right track, IMO.

 

Looks good!

 

Shadow grey over coral is such a sharp color combo. On a swoopy HT, even better. Glad to see this one being saved.

 

Why did you "I just hate to do that to a 55 though" I think that was the best way to go and it looks good so far. Nice Job.

Pat

 

That's a good crinkle...! It's easier to replace the whole thing if you can find a replacement!

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I'm going to start reading from the last page before I answer another question or offer an opinion !

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Wingnutz that happens to me all the time! And also sometimes I forget to hit the post reply button. LOL

Pat

 

Consider inserts in the windshield posts..cut them from the extra roof , rosette weld them on the bottom post , slide roof down over them with pre drilled holes on top post ,rosette weld the top..,that's how I do it.. Then weld the perimeter..looks good so far

 

Looking good. Nice save.
It's not too late to do a Convertible conversion...

 

S55mercury66 said it exactly right.

I cut the rusty roof off my 55 22 years ago.
Drivers side a pillar cut just above the vin tag ( it's a 210 sedan , hardtop vin is down between the hinges on the door jamb)
Picked a similar spot on the other 5 pillars..
Sleved inside...slid the new roof back on..

Easy job..
All the seams inside covered by trim..
Only problem...

I destroyed my back shortly after this.
My car has been bounced around storing it with friends..
Sometimes outside..
The crew was supposed to lightly sandblast the inside of the new roof , etch prime and paint , and seal the cavity with aerosol cavity wax ( 3M product used in aircraft)
Lovely black paint job on the outside...

All the drip rail area rusting from the inside...

Worse than before the roof replacement.

Bare metal = rust activator...

Live and learn..
Dave

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Leaving a older car outside during winter months even covered with a tarp is a recipe for rust problems. When covered outside condensation happens especially in the roof areas. Also drip rails need to have a seam sealer as they are only spot welded. Condensation and moisture can wick between roof panel and drip rail. A classic car stored inside would probably never have much problem in that area. Also if you are near the ocean salt air is not a cars friend. That is why many people in Florida and some other places near the ocean store classics in a capsule or a bag. We have another 55 H/T that came from Connecticut with a large bag to keep the mice out and any moisture. Mice piss is another drip rail enemy.

 

All fitted. Going to start welding tomorrow.

 

Looks good, nice to see another one getting saved.

 

See them a little better

 

I would recommend some weld through primer being sprayed in side the pillars and around the joints to help protect the areas you can't get to after the roof is welded on.
I spray the back side of patch panels that are not able to be sprayed after installation.

 

Does anyone know how to remove these mushroom headed bolts if one breaks? What are these called and are they available still? Or am I just better off replacing the tunnel? I do have both pedals,the two studs at the column are snapped off.

 

If I remember correctly, you can grind off the bolt/stud/mushroom and replace with a bolt tack welding them in. I don't think you can get a wrench on them under the dash.

Pat

 

I didn't know if they are swedged in somehow or splined like a lug nut. As 1934coupe said possibly grind head off or drill center of head and once removed if these studs are not available tack a flange headed bolt for replacement.

 

What ever method was used by name I don't know. I'll say this much. It's like the head was spun weld in place.

 

Nice work man, I definitely agree that welding the pillars is the best way to go.

 

Moving along. Going to paint the dash before installing the windshield. Only hold up is I don't have a key to remove the ignition tumbler . I'm thinking about taking a gamble and take a door lock to a locksmith and hope the ignition is the original.

 

Good call on the dash paint before glass. Also if the tack strip above the windshield for the headliner hasn't already been replaced, now is the time to do it. I did it in my dad's 57 hardtop with the windshield in place and while it's possible, it's really difficult, and would be like a 10 minute job with the windshield out. I like the new hard-ish rubber replacement tack strips currently available better than the factory cardboard shit either way, aluminum pop riveted into place, it's great for headliner installs, takes a staple or tack really well.