Projects They call me Panelman.....1956 Chevy Panel Truck

Here's some random pics:

When I took off the header panel I found a stamp on the roof.

This is the old speaker grille after Brite Boy and elbow grease, back to it's original shimmery goodness.......plus the old speaker that was inside. It's going to get new speakers but the same grilles (I figured if they're already installed might as well work).


Here's the heater back in it's place with new duct hoses to the new registers.


The sun-visors and the passenger side after repair with binding barrels and screws.

 

The back side of the header panel was shockingly clean, the only SLIGHT rust spot was next to the spot light. The spot light gasket was leaking when I bought it. I cleaned it up and painted it with the green spray can I had.

Upper panel backside:


Going to finish the wiring in both A pillars, behind the dash and under the hood. Hopefully it won't rain. When I pull the dash out again to shorten the wires, I'll put the repaired speedo head in.

 

There's already 2 toggle switches in the header panel just behind the driver. I'll use one for the work/back up light under the bumper and the other one for the 2nd interior light.

I pulled the curtain rod and curtains down....these were the holders for the curtains:

 

There is a little brass cup on that head. If you carefully pop it out there is a hunk of fabric behind it. It is an Oiler for the speedo, I soak my fabric in 3in1 sewing machine oil and then put it back in.

 

Hippie wrist bands haven't seen any in a looonnnggg time LOL

 

Takes soooo long to hide stuff to make it look better. Everything is done enough to start on the speedo repair. More random pics:

 

Oh yea, the new to me reverse/work light under the bumper:



And close up of the modified Ford terminal block:

 

I also put some halogen headlights in it, brighter headlights with the bulbs/wiring or relay.........doesn't matter they're brighter. I ran 16g zip cord (lamp wire) for the rear speakers and the toggle switches in the upper panel (for rear interior and back up light). Ran all through the A pillars (speaker on pass side and power on drivers), a full day to get them all through but worth it, everything is hidden. I also cut a hole in the upper panel for the passenger side sun visor, so next is to cover both visors. Also ran the mic for the hands free above the upper panel.

Cruised around last night in the rain, everything works good...almost like a new car, no leaks, good heat, good wipers and good music.

 

Cool

 

I didn't want to destroy the cup plug so I put a little down past the seal? and let it sit. I put some more after that and the next day some was dripping out the input, so I think it soaked the fabric (I hope). I'll look at the other speedo and maybe pull the plug out.

Thanks for the tip.

 

Here's the switches, they look fairly old and have a super positive CLICK = old .

 

You’re probably fine if the oil is leaking out. It’s kinda like the fiberglass in a cigarette filter.

 

I forgot to add that since I don't really trust and repo rubber/glass I always cover the top of the glove box with plastic. Some 3M Super 90 and 6mil black plastic.

 

I can haul a lot of toilet paper and hand sanitizer in the back.

 

Not sure how I missed this thread but that's a really nice panel and even better now with everything you've fixed or renewed, just read the whole thing, great job on things.

 

Same here, just got done reading the full thread. Great truck! Let's go for a drive when this pandemic things is over, OK?

 

Thanks everyone. It's nice thinking to the future and getting back to regular nonsense of cruising for fun, food, parts and tools.

Since there's no driving around to get stuff going on now, I'll add a little bit more to the story that's loosely about building/repairing on the panel.

The passenger side sun visor is kinda special as it's for a Panel/Suburban only. I found it Rosamond (high desert area) about 150 miles one way through LA traffic, spent half a day getting it. I also took the panel up to San Fernando (70 miles one way) through L.A to try and get some F100 brakes (was the whole axle).....but the guy flaked big time. The big deal isn't really the miles it's having to go through L.A traffic, which could add a few hours (to several) depending on the time of day. Truck didn't overheat in bumper to bumper and clutch worked fine.

It wasn't really all that bad as both times I was with my travel partner (my girlfriend) and we ended up seeing old business, old buildings and great food. I didn't get out of my area much growing up and want to see more of the history that So Cal still has left (even if it's bits and pieces)..........a little at a time, I'm still not a traveler. I try to make a day trip (twice a year when it's colder) to some iconic dining place that's still open and check out the local history that isn't there anymore. L.A has plenty of old buildings, streetcar tracks to nowhere, hidden streetcars, so does San Diego area and the Inland Empire.


Edit:
***That was a tough read....I need to proof read BEFORE I post ***

 

I forgot to mention that I don't recall ever seeing a panel or suburban without rear lights in the quarter panels like yours, kinda neat.

 

The two lights on the 1/4's were an option (dealer or factory installed I'm not sure).

 

Ok, I had another post on here about throttle linkage since mine had a little bind right off idle. It looked as mine might be a mismatch of parts and years.

Here's mine:



When you push the pedal the rod goes forward and mine was trying to push into the pivot pin, then it would drop down and push up on the carb. I tried a few different ways to make what I had work, but the rods are non adjustable.

Here's the post I started about the throttle linkage, there you can see what the '55-'59? looks like and that this might be a '54 lever at least.....not sure about the rods.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/235-truck-throttle-rods-and-lever-question.1189596/

 

Looks like mine was already modified, this is the rod from the gas pedal (and the old curtains underneath after washing).




I started to make an extension for the lever to drop the hole down and out. I have to get the angle right first, then I'll cut and weld. Someone in the past drilled out the return spring hole to hook the gas pedal rod into, that's the hole I'm using now. If I wanted to use the stock rod hole I would also have to lengthen the rod to the carb and that part seems to work ok.


Here are the parts I'm going to use. I already bent the front of the rod down here, I'm trying to keep the main body of the rod at the same level coming out of the firewall as the o/d kickdown switch is right underneath and will rub on the wires. Seems the trucks with o/d had the k/d switch on the carb and cars has it under the gas pedal....so someone added o/d later.


Here's what I'm trying, now the rod is adjustable and longer.

Cleaned up the rods and bent the rod end more.

 

I also put a bronze bushing into the lever for the pivot since it wasn't round anymore. Also notice the where the rods go that they made it a little wider with a flange (notice the old spring hole doesn't) . I'm going to try to duplicate that with my new bracket.

 

Nice work

 

Awesome work!! Love the personalized touches you have added!

 

Thanks, I also started on one of the used gauge clusters I got. Mint green, bright silver, semi black and silver hammered finish.




Filling the holes from the curtain rod, still in process.

 

Hammer tone nice detail

 

Thanks Scott. It's the closest I've found locally to that cast color. I'm going to see if I can use a friends tig to weld up the rod pieces.

Stay safe.

 

I'm not a welder, I'm a grinder .


Got the bracket to 1/2 it's thickness and going to re shape it when I find out what angle I need.




I think I'm going to buy a tig welder when the corona money comes in, I need to practice more and the only way is to get my own.

 

Linkage works so smooth now, like a new car and I get full throttle (like it will help). Now on to moving the clutch return spring, which I think is supposed to go to the oil pan but the split pipes are in the way. I have an idea, just need to make it look good.....or at least ok.

 

Oh yeah, the pieces after some more welding and close color match spray can paint.