As I was beginning to rebuild the 10 bolt rear axle in my 49 Buick, I soon realized it was from an early Chevelle instead of BOP and it was an 8.2 instead of an 8.5. Since I have Buick 455 engine, I am concerned about the suitability of the 8.2. Also, rebuilding it, changing gears and installing a limited slip will be fairly expensive. So, this morning I found a couple of 8.8 axles for sale with 3.73 gears and limited slip, plus disc brakes. They are Explorer rear axles. The width of the Explorer axle is 1 inch narrower than needed and I figured I could use wheel spacers to take care of that. However, upon further inspection, I came to realize that the 8.8 has a 2" offset on the pinion. That is a problem with my X frame and would be too close for comfort. Just as I was about to give up on using the 8.8, I thought of another possible solution. Why not offset the rear axle to the DS 1/2" inch and use a 1 inch spacer on the PS. That would give me plenty of clearance. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? Anybody got any better suggestions? I really don't want to butcher the frame. Thanks for your help.
Find a mustang 8.8, they are plentiful and have the pinion about center. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Idk if that 1” spacer on just one side will work or not. I know of at least one way to find out, give it a try with a good quality bolt on spacer.
I'm not launching hard. The 8.2 would probably last with me driving it. This is a 5000 pound cruiser that I want to be able to get out of it's own way. I just realized, I can only offset it 1/2" but that is enough. I will end up with the 1" spacer on the PS. It's got a 4 link and panhard bar. I will make sure it's all squared up and aligned side to side when I weld on the new brackets.
I talked to guy who drag raced with a 10 bolt. I asked him how he made it live and he said simply replace the rear cover with a cast one with bearing saddle supports. Don't know if he was right, or just lucky he had not splattered the 10 bolt yet.
He probably had an 8.5. The differential housing in the 8.2 is wimpy looking to me. The 8.5's are supposed to be a lot tougher. There are actually 3 - 10 bolt versions. There is a 7.5, 8.2 and a 8.5, I believe.
Your way will work but i wouldn't do it. This is how people get cars that are built wrong and they don't know till they have a problem. I would be mad as hell to buy it and find out when i change a tire that there is a spacer on one side only. I don't like spacers anyway. You could just put different offset wheels on it. Do it right . Find another rear end.
This is how to center an 8.8 and keep its original length. Read post #4 onward. https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21538#/topics/21538
Here’s a ‘72 olds 8.5” rear. No C clips. It got treated to 30 spline axles, posi-carrier and 4.10 gears plus a paint job. Probably the cleanest housing I’ve ever seen too. Plus she was a virgin!! I popped her cherry
For my swap, I cut the driver's side axle tube 7" inboard of the flange and cut the passenger's side tube 4" inboard of the flange (the exact locations of the cuts do not matter, but the end removed from the passenger's side must be cut 3" shorter than the end cut off the driver's side). Then I swapped sides with the cut ends, sleeved and welded them back together. Now, the axles can be "flipped" to the opposite side from where they started. What you end up with is a rear that is 59.5" wide and a pinion that is offset by 0.75" to the driver's side. With this method, there are no clearance issues, the spring pads can be welded on to fit stock location springs, and most any backspacing that can be used on a stock rear can still be used. You also don't have to buy a spare passenger side axle.
I am not going to have a bastard wheel. Installing longer lugs and a 1" spacer on one side only isn't going to cause any real issues that I can think of. I'm sure some people might perceive it as an issue but I dont.
Guess what, Ford didn't worry about the off set on millions of Exploders so neither did I on my 48 Chevy. Have not had any problems what so ever. That what universal joints are for.
If you have an X-frame the offset can cause driveshaft side clearance issues. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@dirty old man and @rockable I agree with NOT using long lugs with “floating” spacers. I would use bolt on spacers with there own lug bolts. Should considerably reduce shear forces that would be present with long lugs. Ray
gimpy, if you're talking about spacers with their own lug bolts such as those Hnstray speaks of, that's fine, but I agree with him about the increased shear forces on "floating" spacers
After all this good discussion, I don't think I can use this. I have the car set up to have a pretty low static ride height. I also have the body off the frame now. When I set it up, the driveshaft on my 8.2 cleared ok but it was well up into the tunnel. The driveshaft tunnel on that car is pretty narrow and I'm pretty sure that any offset is going to cause me problems and I'm not going to build a new tunnel in that solid floor. At least I don't want to. I may just end up building the 8.2. Crap.
Do you what you want My buddy did that 8.5” for me. Axles bearings posi and 4.10 gears. $2000 No brakes The 8.2 will cost the same or more if you want C clip eliminator kit. Then you just have the 8.2. There’s no way you’re ever going to spend 2grand cutting and welding the tubes on a 8.8 More like 200 for welding plus 300. Cheaper if you snag one out of a u pull it part 3.37 posi limited slip and disc brakes if you want. That exploder rear end is heavy duty man,
You WERE contemplating running 1 spacer I’d have to do all the math but 3/8” shift centers up 3/4” off center. The 8.8 came in damn near everything. Danny Hot rod primer has a bronco ford 9” he Dont know what to do with. Maybe that works better