More pics is always better,,,,very good job . And always remember,,,with welding,,,,it’s ,,,practice, practice , practice . You are definitely getting better . Tommy
Thanks Guys! I am learning as I go, and figure the more I share, we can learn together, in case someone else is starting out with something similar. Plus, besides my Pop, no body I know around me is into Hotrods anymore, so its nice to share with you guys! Thanks Rick
More Puzzle piece making! “Forced Patience” on these final phases, spending a few days just on this corner Business! Trial fit, over and over. Just want it done damn it! I know.. it will be worth it! Keep y’all posted!
Alrighty then! I’m taking a break for a few days! Im in the home stretch now! Feeling good! 1 more Triangle patch left’ And a few more welds! And I be done with the driver side! That aftermarket patch fits really well.
I’m trying not to look at this right now, but its staring at me.... I want to just fix the outer edge, and not replace the whole damn thing, and do all that fitting, and manipulating the aftermarket metal to fit. Plus I’m cheap, I can form pieces to fit into in there! STOP IT Rick! Just finish the Darn quarter’s first! ....it’s looking at me......
So the rockers probably need replaced but the inner structure will probably clean up? Thinking out loud here because my '33 coupe rockers look the same (after the putty is removed). I'm seeing bubbles in paint hiding the truth.. Keep up the good work, you're an inspiration.
I wouldnt patch those rockers,just replace them with new ones,the repro ones have the cutouts for the trim screws.Buy the panels and see how they fit,then cut the old ones off,it will be a much better job.I have the same car as yours,it has very similar rust as well,be careful welding it together,so it doesnt warp and your doors wont fit,the body should be bolted down so it doesnt move,it is possible to change the geometry of it. Harvey
Yes, replace the rocker outer panels. As stated, there are some good ones with all the correct flanges, so it will basically be removing the old ones at the spot welds and spotting the new ones back on. And if you cleaned the stuff up properly beforehand, you might find you only need to replace a segment. Sandblast and see how far the rot goes. May be solid for the back half.
I guess $95 is Affordable enough for me! Have any of you guys heard Of or used towels sheet metal? Everything seems to be made for Coupes and roadsters. Some say coops and sedans are the same some don’t? I’m confused.
There are a bunch of threads here about them. You really should do a search, read them, and decide for yourself.
I have heard different things about them,their panels are supposed to be good,customer service is only so-so.appaently E-bay is the best way to go,if they have it listed it ships out quick,otherwise you may be in for a wait. Once you repair a rusty spot with a good fitting repair panel,you will never want to make your own again,even if money is tight. Harvey
I bought my 33 parts from Tom Bay. No hassles, no problems. You may want to read this; https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/howells-sheet-metal.1168814/page-4#post-13452056
Hey there! Guess what? I’ve had my Lincoln Meg Welder for about 10 years now, and I never looked in my stash but apparently it came with a .025 Starter roll LOL so now I can do the Outer sheet metal with that and I got copper for the back to so I should be good now! Now that I’m used to .030 on everything, .025 should be pretty easy I imagine for the sheet metal! Will find out today!
@sdroadster Boy that .025 wire I found that you suggested, (.023) really worked good on the outer sheet-metal! I almost look like I know what I’m doing, I’m afraid to weld the back because of warpage but I got lucky so far, so I think as long as I just take my time it should be fine, I’d like to have that extra metal back there so later bodywork/sanding, wont it wear through! I haven’t made the triangle piece yet, I want to get all the welding done front and back as much as possible first, and then put that in last, that way I can get hammers,dolly’s, and things through the hole while I’m working on it.
Your welds look much better. The 025 wire melts much faster, and you get a cleaner, and hotter weld. Play with the wire speed, and amperage until you get good penetration when pulling the trigger as fast as you can. Nail it, nail it, nail it. Your looking much better.
Nice. Metal where rust used to be. Once panel work is done, what's the plan to clean everything else up? Bead blast? Soda? I've heard some guys use aluminum oxide?
Stripping by hand! And put the patina back like I originally was gonna do, similar to this: A little less primer showing though
Selling my old rear fenders, and extra windshield/ header panel to buy new rockers, and what ever else I might need, metal wise. (If anyone is the Sacramento area I put em on CL) Glad the cal is still good!
When I Mig butt weld sheet metal, I leave between a 1/32" - 1/16" gap between the panels for better penetration and no fear of grinding the outside weld down and losing any strength in the weld. Been using .030 wire since I learned 35 + years ago, but have friends who like .023 better for thin stuff. Just a matter of how you get the feel of things. I was just too lazy to change spools and tips and stuck with .030.
Finally Done with the driver side! Gonna Flip the car around and start on the passenger side! Pissed my .025 roll came apart and jammed into a rats nest! Ended up welding the back side, anyway Feel alot better!
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