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Projects coupester #4, '30 w/ '28 stanchions

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by sloppy jalopies, Mar 13, 2020.

  1. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I have a 1930 cut down closed car cowl...
    traded stuff to get a pair of '28 roadster stanchions...
    DSCN3290.JPG .
    trimmed the stanchion's rear edge to match the '30 A pillar...
    28 on 30 cowl 1.JPG .
    bought a pair of '28-'29 open car stanchion mounts [ears] … [hamber, thanks]...
    DSCN5618.JPG DSCN5615.JPG .
    need to trim the new posts and the '30 posts to match... more pix later...
    DSCN4402.JPG .
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2020
  2. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,178

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

  3. Looks good. Send some pictures of that wild paint job!
     
  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    only before pic I have...
    In its American flag paint i'll bet his model A was a favorite at local parades...naples, me.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020

  5. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Got a pair of '30 coupe doors,
    DSCN2931.JPG
    decklid, the '30 cowl....
    just picked up a matching tulip...
    quarters. DSCN5682.JPG DSCN5702.JPG DSCN5699.JPG DSCN5701.JPG DSCN5700.JPG

    tulip. above deck 1.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2020
  6. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Where the kahuna wants us to stay at home, I took 2 quarters and made 1...
    needs a little patching and dinging...
    split both quarters down the small beltline... beltline metal doesn't worp much...
    welded thin strips to the back... welded the skin front and back... looks shiddy but the extra steel won't let me grind it down to razor blades...
    .
    DSCN5709.JPG DSCN5712.JPG
    needs a patch where the leftover quarter was rusted through...
    DSCN5715.JPG
    another patch here... DSCN5716.JPG

    welded the quarter I had gotten to repair the left quarter of the "sportster" back together...
    used the leftover quarter to repair the next project's quarter...
    DSCN5707.JPG
    At $150 for the pair of quarters, [thanks KB] I am happy with this side, good enough for a hotrod...
    DSCN5711.JPG DSCN5710.JPG
    think I can get one of the patches from this... DSCN5720.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
    Okie Pete, dwollam, Tim and 6 others like this.
  7. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,154

    bct
    Member

    nice work . no stopping ya!!
     
  8. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    right side next... DSCN5718.JPG DSCN5717.JPG DSCN5722.JPG DSCN5723.JPG
    tulip panel...
    torched off the 7 through bolts and 86ed the 1.5" angle iron that ran from B pillar to B pillar...
    scuffed and cheapo black [storage]...
    above deck 1.JPG DSCN5726.JPG DSCN5727.JPG
     
  9. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    left '30 coupe door cap tomorrow... well... no.
    I have a pair of the armrest sections cut off '30 coupe, sportie, fordor or cabbie doors...
    and another pair off a '31 truck or tudor... free for the shipping...
    door;
    DSCN5728.JPG
    door cap ;
    DSCN5729.JPG
    pix Thursday.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
    Nailhead A-V8 likes this.
  10. Looking good man
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  11. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Cleaned up half a 25 gallon drum of scrap steel from the floor, magnet on a 3' stick helps...
    set the quarters up for a before and after pic...
    ship luck... I only have 1 quarter patch... and its a rightie…
    .
    DSCN5682.JPG
    . DSCN5738.JPG
    I paid the kids next door $5 each to help me drag the '29 chebby frame within range...
    grabbed the tape measure and paint marker. plotted out the bed, cab, hood and grill... the frame kicks up about 4.5"... the model A rear crossmember sticks up 5"... no hole in the bed floor … im hoping that by trimming some cross bracing under the bed it may absorb the kick under the floor and set flat on the kicked rails...
    more ship luck... the distance between the frame rails at the front crossmember is 1/8" closer together than my '32 frame with model A crossmember... A crossmember and an A frontend may just fit...
    had a pair of model A frame horns about 5" long... just right.
    DSCN5740.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
  12. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 1,958

    X-cpe

    Carpentry teacher at work puts his magnet on a stick inside a tin can. When it is time to unload he pulls the magnet out of the can and the steel drops off.
     
  13. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    couple pair of c clamp vise-grips and shazam... another someday...
    .
    DSCN5775.JPG
    . DSCN5769.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2020
    48fordnut, Tim, Nailhead A-V8 and 5 others like this.
  14. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,053

    rusty rocket
    Member

  15. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    DSCN5801.JPG Little sanding, little more trimming, seems to tilt back more than I thought it would...
    .
    DSCN5796.JPG DSCN5799.JPG DSCN5800.JPG DSCN5803.JPG DSCN5805.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  16. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Couldn't sleep...
    1.30 AM went down to the garage, trimmed, fit welded the '28 stanchion brackets I got from a fellow hamber onto the '30 closed car cowl…
    needs fine welding and some careful grinding...
    funky cowl is gonna put the "ster" in coupester… DSCN5820.JPG DSCN5824.JPG DSCN5823.JPG DSCN5827.JPG
     
  17. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Attacked one of my coupe doors that someone failed at putting on a MAC'S belt down door skin...
    removed it, check its size... too tall and too wide... might have been a tudor skin... flattened out his lumpy foldover… trimmed the skin to size... the rear edge is 1/8" taller than the front, measured from the bottom of the lower beltline bead down to the top of the lower reveal... R= 21 1/2" and F= 21 3/8"...
    re-aligned, checked twice, tacked, checked, nuked it on...
    I miss those "mistakes" that used to show up at a swap meet for the "get it out of my sight" price !
    .
    DSCN5828.JPG DSCN5829.JPG DSCN5830.JPG DSCN5831.JPG DSCN5832.JPG DSCN5833.JPG DSCN5834.JPG
    Grabbed one of the door caps that "spanky" hammerforms for me...
    marked, checked, cut, filed, tacked, checked, nuked the cap onto the re-re-skinned door...
    going to trim the A and B jams to take the upside down garnish mld…
    Took me about 3 hours but I have a usable coupester door for maybe $75 with the cap...

    DSCN5839.JPG DSCN5840.JPG DSCN5838.JPG DSCN5837.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  18. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Grabbed the left door saftanoon, had a new "belt down" tudor skin I didn't use...
    then I fit, trimmed, measured, tacked, and re-checked...
    welded across the skin, folded the hinge edge of the door skin over...
    on the latch edge i cut the extra length off...
    welded about half of the "on end" weld needed to join the old overlap, the inner structure and the new skin... later I will grind the high spots, and fine tune the welded edge with a 3" belt sander...
    DSCN5856.JPG DSCN5855.JPG DSCN5854.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020
    Okie Pete, Atwater Mike, Tim and 8 others like this.
  19. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Had a dozen thrown away barrel rack cross rails from my years at GE... 8'x 4"x 3" …
    2 of them and the cut up frame work from a crashed Winabego as cross braces...
    8' long by 38" wide either about 10" or about 25" stance...
    Going to weld up another build table as I don't think I can sell the bodies for awhile...
    I like to use junk 1.5" steel tube from colapsed canvas garages as the tubes slide inside of each other letting me make easily changed different length legs...
    . DSCN5857.JPG
    Welded up this table... the stepped legs are 6" long, welded to the framework and the 1.5" pipe slides over them...
    the legs on it now keep the table at 25"... will make [4] 6" legs [pic] for when I want to work on a roof or door tops... they will have skids welded to the bottoms so I can slide the thing outside...
    going to make a pair of 36" long 1.5" pipes and legs to support them that bolt onto the front cross brace of the table... these will support the grill and hood if and when I need them, and I won't have to walk around them as if I had welded them on...
    have some heavy duty dolly wheels... hmmm. removable dolly wheels under the table...
    .
    DSCN5877.JPG
    [4] 6" sections... DSCN5880.JPG
    the stepped down legs DSCN5878.JPG DSCN5879.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2020
  20. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Left door re-skinned and capped...
    the 2" section of lower reveal sticking out is from the skin being a tudor…
    .
    DSCN5728.JPG
    . I trimmed off most of the overlapped skin...
    clamped the skin, inner structure and overlapped original skin together, welded them together letting it build up about 1/8"... ground the high spots, sanded the edge down with the 3" belt sander...
    trimmed the cap's outer edge and butt welded it to the trimmed down door top...
    couple roughed out doors while "sequestered" …
    DSCN5860.JPG
     
  21. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,388

    Squablow
    Member

    Interesting. Seems like you're making good use of what otherwise would be considered cast-offs, that's what I like to see.
     
  22. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    thanks squablow,
    This thread started as a cowl conversion but one thing after another and well,
    it is going to be a hotrod body...
    . DSCN5870.JPG
     
    camcrusher, Okie Pete, Tim and 10 others like this.
  23. Love watching you and @squirrel build something from nothing. It is always an education.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  24. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Welded some dolly wheels onto the ends of the short legs... swivel fronts and straight backs...
    the orange tape is holding the bolts in that keeps the wheel tubes from sliding out...
    DSCN5885.JPG DSCN5884.JPG .
    welded caps on the ends of the long legs so they slide on the floor a little better...
    DSCN5883.JPG .
    welded 2 male tube sections onto the front crossrail… 35" long tubes will slide in and I will drop a bolt through both the male and female to secure them... they will support the grill / hoodtop…
    lower pic shows a scrap piece of tube...
    DSCN5882.JPG DSCN5886.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  25. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Cut a 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" plywood into 3 pieces...
    . DSCN5887.JPG
    Front 20"... A cowl is 16" and tapers wider towards the rear...
    center is 20" ... has the front corners rounded to help save my knees...and is removable so I can stand or sit inside the body if I need to...
    I drilled 1/8" holes through both the front and rear sections of plywood and the tables framework then dropped a nail in the hole so the wood doesn't shift...
    DSCN5891.JPG .
    Rear is 54"... I wanted to have the B pillar mounts and the heavy rear crossrail on the same section...
    DSCN5895.JPG .
    Cowl setting on the table...
    DSCN5892.JPG
    I realize the subrails I bought 2 years ago don't fit the '30 closed car subfloor extensions... looks like a will cut and splice onto the stock subfloor ends that I stuck in the extension for the pic...
    DSCN5893.JPG 3/8" too wide and not deep/long enough [doesn't even reach the front cowl bolt hole]…
    tried [4] '30 cowls...the raised leading edge is straight across, my subrails [junk] have the raised ridge at an angle...
    .
    any ideas ? .'28-'29 or maybe 31 slant w/s bodies ? …
    Went out to the scrap pile, they are '28-'29 tudor or coupe, open cars had areas for clamps for the sill plates... oh well cut and weld on what fits... having the wrong subfloor shouldn't affect the Nasty Nancy Coupester body's build...
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2020
    Okie Pete likes this.
  26. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Welded the front 7" of the '30 subrails to the cut off and narrowed '28s...
    DSCN5907.JPG
    set them under the cowl... sat the heavy rear crossrail on top of the subrails… DSCN5902.JPG

    Trimmed the 3 crossrails and slid them under the subrails…
    Careful when trimming the ends as the subrail curves top to bottom behind the door, you will have to trim the crossrail too long and bend the top down at an arch as it is riveted through the subrail...
    DSCN5901.JPG
    moved back 5 feet and cross measured from the 3rd crossrail to the rear cowl bolt
    less than 1/8" off... I weld that... ordered wooden mounting blocks today.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 17, 2020
  27. eldiablooxidado
    Joined: Jan 11, 2019
    Posts: 59

    eldiablooxidado
    Member

    Coming along great Smitty! I've got a sport coupe body in pieces I've gotta get to one of these days!

    Nick
     
  28. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    while the kahuna wants us to stay home I am going to make the best of it...
     
  29. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Used my clekos and secured the cross rails to the subrails…
    . DSCN5916.JPG
    bent up a couple 90*s, they will fit the B pillar section of the subrails… I will cleko them on so I can fine tune the B pillar when I am ready to attach the quarters...
    DSCN5918.JPG
    .
    notice how the bottom center of the windshield frame contacts the top center of the stock under w/s panel... doesn't let the lower sides of the w/s frame pull in against the stanchions...
    . DSCN5922.JPG
    also the rounded caps on the stanchions hit the top outer edges of the w/s frame...
    because I have already cut the lower rear edge of the stanchions I will trim them to let the top of the w/s pull in flush...
    . DSCN5923.JPG
    going to need a slant w/s filler or under windshield panel as they are designed to deal with a tilted w/s...
    have a rusty dented one on a cowl out back...
    notice how far back the center reveal is...
    DSCN5927.JPG
    .

    I had some 2" x 3/4" steel tube, I cut a couple 26" sections and pie cut one edge so I can copy the quarters curve...
    DSCN5915.JPG
    .
    I traced the curve from a good door onto a strip of wood lying around, cut, bent checked went quick... DSCN5913.JPG
    . DSCN5915.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Okie Pete and Nailhead A-V8 like this.
  30. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Trimmed the post's caps to clear the w/s frame... DSCN5932.JPG
    using a 1932-'34 truck w/s frame, did not cut it... I did remove the swing arm anchors so the frame would fit between the stanchions... still too tight so I trimmed off the strip that retains the gasket on the sides and bottom...
    much better...
    DSCN5935.JPG DSCN5934.JPG
    changed the "filler" panel to '31 Victoria...
    .
    salvaged 1 male [cowl] hinge... need to make 2 lower and 1 center male hinge...
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2020

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