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Technical Power vs Manual Brakes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by greg37, Apr 2, 2020.

  1. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    As anyone who's had to pull over when the engine died can attest to.

    Maybe I'm the only one. :(
     
  2. greg37
    Joined: Sep 9, 2013
    Posts: 255

    greg37
    Member
    from mi.

    Yes it has residual valves off the master, M.C. and booster mounted on frame. Stainless brake lines in front. Small cam. I've had the car a couple years and the pedal has never been great but the brakes always worked okay. Thanks everyone for sticking with me on this.
     
  3. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
    Member

    When the engine dies you should have one or two power assisted stops before all the vacuum is gone from the reservoir.
     
  4. More often than not I see builds done where guys have cabin fitting issues so they unknowingly modify the brake system so it fits better but compromised the way it’s supposed to work. I’ve seen jacked up pedal ratios, short strokes, jack shaft style pedals, wrong bore ratio math, and general nincompoopery.
    Funny thing I’ve been able to fix every one so far. Sometimes it involves cutting the car and fabricating the stuff right. Sometimes just swapping the right combo of parts.

    Maybe that’s your problem here with a “never been great” pedal. What’s that mean exactly.

    Try a bleed with an experienced helper.
    when the bleeder opens the pedal has a “feel” to the drop.
     
  5. Especially if the engine stalls because of a damn vacuum leak when the booster failed. :eek:
     
  6. Provided that “all of the everything else” stuff is there and working as it is designed and the booster is the proper size to begin with emulating a OEM set up. All of that is seldom found in a hot rod.
    I always overbuild seat mounts and sometimes people ask why. My answer is I can’t tell how hard the driver will need to be standing on the brakes.
     
  7. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Not stops, pumps on the pedal. Assuming you weren't on the brakes already. My guess is everyone has had to do a non-assisted stop at one time or another.
     
    BJR likes this.
  8. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
    Member

    You are correct, pumps, not stops. :eek: Thanks for the correction.:)
     
    blowby likes this.
  9. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,606

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Aha... may be more here than just the master cylinder.
    It might still need to be fixed or replaced. Then some further investigation.

    Readjusting the rod.
    Look at the threads on the rod. You may be able to see where it was adjusted to. Maybe not. But you should have a little bit... as much as 1 inch of free play at the top of the pedal before you feel any added resistance.





    Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. If the pedal pumps up and drops, the master is bypassing internally. Some are elusive to diagnose, others like yours are obvious.
     
  11. greg37
    Joined: Sep 9, 2013
    Posts: 255

    greg37
    Member
    from mi.

    SUCCESS, I tried again today and checked rear drums for adjustment. I did the right side first no problem, then switched to the left and as I was taking the plug out I noticed a very
    small amount of fluid on the drum by the bleeder, I called my wife and she stepped on the pedal , as I watched the bleeder sure enough a drop maybe two leaked out . After that we bled the brakes and all seems good . I took it for a drive no problems. I really feel stupid not catching this sooner. If all of you hadn't suggested I check the rears I'd still be chasing shadows.
     
    bobss396 likes this.

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