I’m build a 32 5 window running a 401 nailhead from 65 going for a 60s style hotrod with it, I would like to build my own ladder bars and was going to use 1 1/4” dom tubing with rubber bushings on the front and back because it’s mainly going to be on the street and probably a little on the strip. I’ve done some research on here and opinions are all over the place but some say that ladder bars on the street can bind and break and I definitely don’t want that. My question is with how I’m building my do you think I would have a problem? I’m new to the 30s era cars mainly had 60s chevys any experience and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Follow this link and study all the tech sheets and diagrams: https://www.peteandjakes.com/tech/ Pete&Jakes make good stuff and have good tech to back it up.
Done 100's of 32 chassis with P&J's ladder bars, no problems to date. They're not that expensive and are good looking.
You could make your own or make them from components sold and distributed by any number of hot rod shops, some are copies , some are innovations, some are cheap horrible Chinese copies and shouldn't be used for any price. These guys make all sorts of hot rod components in Missouri, have dealers all around the place. https://rjays.com/ http://autofabcart.net/rearsuspension.aspx
By time you buy the tubing and factor in your time your money ahead just to buy them unless you like making thing Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Same thoughts I live life by “ I have nothing but time remaining , if someone else can do it I’m at least tryin it .” Many failures on the way , but learned many things also . A wise man once told me , a day that goes by and you do not try to learn more is a day you wasted .
It's not possible to say if you'll have a problem. Ladder bars are just a part of the overall rear suspension design; all components must be designed to work in harmony. I don't have a clear picture of what you are proposing to do. Note that the following are some items that must be taken into consideration. You are probably aware of these, but since you are self-admittedy a novice on traditional rod building, I will not make that assumption. • Ford type transverse spring or parallel leaf semi-elliptics (type and location of shackles)?? • Location of proposed ladder bar front mounting points, and proximity to front U-joint (preferably very close together)? • Open (presumed) or closed drive shaft (God forbid), with or without slip joint.?
Thanks for all the advice! I’ve decided to build my own, my next question, do the clevis style rod ends work well? I’ve seen a ton of guys running them so I’m assuming they do. My first idea was to run a rubber or urethane bushing to replace the clevis thinking the rear suspension would handle flex better like turning into a steep incline or rough roads I live in IL and the roads are horrible! Any opinions would be great.
I’m running a TREMEC 5 spd so it will have a open drive shift with a slip yoke and a transverse spring. My front mounting points for the ladder bars are close together. I’ll try to get some pics of what I’m working with this week
I built these ladder bars for my Model A, but mounted them close together in front like other examples shown. I used polyurethane bushed 3/4" ends on the front and clevises on the rear. I suppose urethane bushed ends on the rear would be a bit more compliant when you're going through a dip or pulling in a driveway, but you'd want to mount them in double shear brackets on the rearend. As far as tubing, I also did a triangulated 4-bar on a '33 Willys that I recently sold. On it I used 1 1/8" OD X .120 wall DOM tubing. Poly bushings on all the bars. Even made my own threaded bushing ends. Used 7/8" O.D. tubing of the proper wall thickness to tap 5/8" threads and slid them inside the 1 1/8" tubes and TIG'd it all together. Here's a couple photos of the A and a couple of the Willys. I got one of the A photos out of place with the others. Lynn
The Jalopy Journal
