Technical Edeldbrock carb tune for lumpy camshaft

My thinking is the plate is above or ready to be above the transition slot , drilling the holes will allow a more usable circuit in the carb . They have to be SMALL or the carb will end up as a science project that went bad . This is only my 2cents , just my warped mind thinking . I have had good luck doing Qjets and Holley carbs this way .

 

Remove the AFB. Put it on craigslist. Get a Holley

 

X100^^^^^

 

Had a 'funny-feeling' this post was gonna degrade into a "get-a-Holley-and-live-happily-ever-after"argument. This ain't about that!
I feel there are many-many Edelbrock carb users with plenty of good tips.......just wanted to hear from them.
So far got several tips to 'drill a hole in the primary plates'. How bigga hole is the next question?
Kind of a big step (if you axe me)! remove the carb.....drill holes....new gasket...hope the hole ain't too big. (ever tell y'all about this old gal I dated once..........never mind!)
Next question...how big a hole and how to repair it if that don't work???!
6sally6
PS I guess the vacuum reading from the ported side of carb will tell IF the transition slots are working?????

 

If you have vacuum at the ported side at idle that means you have the throttle plates open to much.

 

Do your idle screws do anything? when you run them in the motor chokes down and gets rich when you back them out? I have seen that channel restricted by a plug and what little fuel it gets isn't metered proper by the idle screw.

 

Start with a 1/16" hole and then test run it. if it helps but seems to need more you can just increase holes size a little at a time, like 1/32" steps

To repair, you can either replace the blades, I believe AllState Carbs can supply them, about $7 a pair....or you can take them out of the baseplate and solder them closed with a mini-torch(butane torch) and common lead solder.

This info may really help you also:
http://www.boyxunderthehood.com/wp-...ETORS-ADVANCED-CARBURETOR-TUNING-IFR-BIAB.pdf

Alternative method for either testing or to avoid drilling the blades:
http://boyzunderthehood.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/DRILLING-CARBURETOR-THROTTLE-BLADES-.pdf

 

X1000^^^^

 

Are you positive you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere? The only thing that makes a carb work is the vacuum signal beneath it. Start from there and work up.

 

Remove the vacuum and mechanical advances and run straight timing.. Best and cheapest way to do this is to use the single points distributor for that motor.
Then get a CD box like the MSD6AL or another brand, there all pretty good. Just take the springs off the weights of the mechanical advance and put it all back together without the springs.
This way you will have lower timing during start but as soon as that engine starts spinning at idle the weights will come out and advance the timing.
Make a mark on the balancer at 30 B.T.D.C., this is your new timing mark. Set the timing like before, 2,4,6,8,10 will be 32,34,36,38,40...
I put 70,000 miles on a 462 (041 cam) Pontiac Motor set up like that.

 

Kinda done that!! Lightest advance springs and by 2000RPM I'm at full advance.(36*) (Have a timing tape). No vacuum advance. Wonder if too much advance below 2000 could be a problem?! I have the MSD box and MSD Blaster coil sooooo plenty of spark!