I have a 1950 Chevy 5 Window short bed pick up And I need some advice or help On the master cylinder I want to drive it around even though is still needs a little work but I least the brakes will be working and what I'm asking is could I use a different master cylinder with a booster kit or just use the master cylinder dual The floor of the pick up is all rot it out so I have the space to do it like to work on it is there a particular booster with the Paddle included that it's simple bolt on to the original frame pretty much Changing out the old him putting something new in let's say there is some out there that I could order I could go that route or I can go to a local junkyard in get one is there a particular year Of the master cylinder if I were to go to a junkyard my Cana don't wanna go that route I rather order one that is ready to go all you have to do is install it no cutting no welding any thoughts I would really appreciate it thank you
Sorry man I tried to read your post three times and my head was spinning. See what I just did? Used a period!! If your are keeping the rest of the brake system stock, replace it with a stock unit. Easy way to get it done.
It looks like you have way more problems than a master cyl. Have you tried the Fred Flintstone brake system? Sorry, I just had to beat the other wise asses to it.
Sorry didnt spell it right used the talk to text . But ya just woundering if the best way is to upgrade to dual mc with the booster and use the regular brakes later when I have more money ima do a frame swap
https://www.performanceonline.com/1...Series-Truck-Master-Cylinder-kit-Drum-Brakes/ I would just rebuild the original master cylinder.
Those floor boards say you aren't going to do any serious street driving with it unless you are completely out of your mind. For just being able to fire it up and move it around the yard or maybe drive it a few blocks to the mini mart for a six pack or a 44 oz soda/pop I'd first pull the original off, take it apart and hone it out and see what the bore looks like after it is honed. If you just want a dual cylinder upgrade and no power you can use a 68 C 10 master cylinder and buld a bracket that bolts to the two holes that the stock master cylinder bolts to but mounts it a bit further back to clear the stock bracket and center it so the push rod runs on a perfectly straight line to the new cylinder. You do have to fab a new heavy duty push rod. That is what I have had on my 48 with drum brakes for years.
Most say Most say "for automatic transmissions only", I assume the clutch linkage/etc get's in the way? Not sure. To get it rolling and stopping, I'd do as mentioned above, see if you can rebuild the original MC, then look towards and upgrade in the future. Don't shy from some fabrication work, you could mount something newer on the firewall with some bracing/backing-you would want to brace it up, etc, as the firewall may flex if just bolted to it. Going this route would let the pedal "swing" as opposed to coming through the floor. Are you planning to stay with the 6cyl and 3? speed?
Go to Rockauto and get a replacement cylinder if you just want to drive it around your yard or something. Looking at the pictures makes you wonder what the rest of the vehicle is like safety wise
Lmc truck has a complete kit ( disc drum master & valve but no booster) Both for automatic and stock trans. Lmc has also just the brackets for dual bail master ( you need to supply drum drum master) for use with stock manual trans. RETAINING THE STOCK PEDALS but No booster. Currently it’s on backorder If you want power brakes with the stock pedals you’ll need to make brackets, move everything back and use a custom made long brake rod. Or go with a remote set up. There was a dirty word up there in your word salad post.
If you have to ask a question like this, and I am not trying to discourage asking questions, I have to think that doing a chassis swap would result in a failed project. There are many upgrades available for the stock frame that can make the truck do anything a swapped frame can do, and for someone with limited $$ and knowledge will allow the truck to make progress a little at a time. Don't be afraid to ask questions, it is how you learn, but be aware we frown on frame swaps unless it is putting a 32 under a model a. Have you looked at the AD group here? The first posting there is a sticky that Cubby put together, it has a lot of good info on updating these trucks.
When I upgraded my 51 chevy pickup I used a 1968 Camaro duel master cylinder. On the 51 I kept the drum brakes front & back so the master cylinder I bought (you can get them at your local autoparts store) was for a drum/drum setup also. I welded up my own bracket, and you can see how I did that on my build thread. Here is the link to that: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/51-chevy-3100-project.672888/page-4 Since you don't want to do any welding, I believe you can buy a bolt on mounting bracket such as the one from Ecklers: https://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-truck-dual-master-cylinder-adapter-bracket-1947-1954.html Not sure if the 68 Camaro master will work directly with this bracket, but you can research that (probably on Ecklers site). I've been driving mine for a couple of years and have had no problems.
Oh, one other thing - there is a HAMB social forum specifically for these trucks. It has a wealth of information and was invaluable to me during the 5 years it took me to get mine on the road. Here is the link to that: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/social-forums/a-d-truckers.116/ Good luck, and don't be afraid to keep asking questions!
Thanks for writting and giving your 2 cents . Yes for now would like to drive it but since the floors need to be replaced I figure I ask around .yes keeping the original engine for now until I have more money to do a cab swap. But the fact that if I put the original mc on if one brake fails all do . And that scares me with me and my 8yrld son . But I saw a brothers video they did change the mc to a dual just incase the front go out or the back. So I dont know . I'm not a pro mechanic . My dad never showed me any mechanic stuff when I was a child so I've been learning on my own .
Lol for now nope soon yes . Looking for a welder as of right now but since it's open I can change the master cylinder and get the brakes going . Then later do an s10 cab swap with airbags
Since you have limited experience, it would be best to do just rebuild/replace the original MC. You may find it with rusty fluid/etc in it. Then, start pulling the wheel cylinders. I'm thinking you'll be going through all of them as well as replacing the brake lines and hoses. Now all said and done, you'll have a truck made like millions and million of other vehicles that only had a single reservoir M/C, that ran for a 100,000 miles without any work needed. Keep in mind, you'll probably need to do wheel cylinders and lines (line for sure) if upgrading to a dual MC anyways, so the cost there is a wash. Where are you located? When the Shelter-in-place is lifted, someone may be near to you who can put eyes on things and lend a hand/offer advice.
With a closed cab pickup and a big hole in the floor, I wouldn't drive it at all unless I was positive there was no exhaust leak and the fumes wouldn't come up threw the floor.
The bracket I described in my previous post looks almost exactly like one that Ecl;ers has in the link shown except the cost was 0 because we dug the metal out of the scrap pile and cut it to make the bracket, drilled the holes and welded it up all in a little over 30 minutes. There is only one viable reason to use an S-10 frame and that is that your stock framed isn't in good enough shape to use. Just because the cool guys down at the hang out all say you have to have an S-10 frame isn't a viable reason. Laying frame with a bagged truck is about the lamest joke on the planet anyhow.; "Dude, look I made my truck look like it is laying out in the field all broken, isn't that just the coolest?"
PerformanceOnline.com Golden-State-Parts.com Both have dual chamber M/C kits for the early Chevys Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Really what part? I'm near santa rosa u heard of the city? Ya I dont have lots experience it be nice to link up with someone that knows these trucks . So were you from pat?
If you replace or rebuild the original master cyl, replace or rebuild the wheel cyls, replace the rubber hoses in the system and any metal lines needed, why would you worry about it failing if you are going to just drive it for a couple of years? Most failures in these single master systems occur after many years of faithful service and a neglected system. Flush the system every couple of years, maybe check the cyls in the brakes for any seepage every 6 months. I would worry more about a child sitting in a truck full of metal surfaces in the event of an accident.
That change makes absolutely no sense to me. thousands of them being done doesn’t make it more sensible. I studied the idea, and tried to see the problem or problems that were solved or improvements and the problems that the change creates and then solving those. If the original frame is unusable, find another or get some 2x6 box tube and 2” flat bar. The original frame is relatively flat with a consistent taper front to back. There’s a slight change-up in the front and depending on the year a slight rise and fall in the rear over the axle. Everything fits, every single bracket simply bolts on and works as is. The body just sits where it’s supposed to. The radiator is where it belongs, the inner wheel wells fit and a whole slew of body fitting issues are not altered. The wheel bolt patterns, gear ratios, braking, and suspension/handling issues are the “problems” attempting to be solved with the change and this cure is soooo much worse than the disease. This green area of the frame needs surgery and benefits the entire truck build as a whole. Leave the red areas alone, keep them where they are!!! With that frame surgery and being just 1 alteration this allows other options to actually work to solve the problems. V8? No problem Different steering set up? No problem Suspension up grade? No problem Notice how that OT frame has a big kick up at the front ???? Besides it going the wrong way- See the other nonsense needed to compensate for that? All that’s needed is to bring the original frame down in the front in my green area. Then the other concerns are easily bolt on changes and no other bumper to bumper problems created.
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