Projects T&A Flathead Builds a '48 RagTop

Worrying about "visibility" in a custom is like worrying about MPG in a hot rod.... haha! Looks great man! Can't wait to see it!!

Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I was able to get the windshield frame welded in place today. I made a support channel to reinforce the cut area. It had an inner channel running up the A pillar. I made a channel and welded it to the upper section and will plug weld it to the lower. It should be very strong.

 

Drivers side windshield post is welded. I have a little more grinding and smoothing to do but it’s close. Passenger side is about half way there; had to quit to go make dinner. HAMB and Potatoes.

 

Yip yip yip...

Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Right at a 4.5” chop. Passenger side is done. I have a little more metal finishing on both sides but the windshield frame is basically done. I have the vent windows to do but I’ll save those for later.

 

So glad you're doing this!!

Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Looking good. Lots of progress. It is going to be fantastic.

 

If you guys remember, I said I was considering running a y-block. Today I dropped it in the chassis for the first time. I have a T170 trans that I have modified to mate to the closed driveshaft. Looks like I need a truck or Tbird oil pan and I will need to relocate the oil filter. I need to figure out the engine mounts but it does not look too difficult. If anyone has done this before, post some pics.

 

I'm really enjoying this whole thread. You are teaching a lot to plenty of us! Methodical, well thought out procedures, great pics, etc. I think these types of threads really encourages those who are learning to give it a go. So thank you for chronicling your build. I have a '47 Buick Sedanette that will be needing inner rockers and some other repairs that will be accomplished thanks to you (I hope!).

 

@Fortunateson , thanks for the comments. I’m happy to help anyone on these old cars because I was fortunate enough to learn from one of the best. Good luck with your project.

 

I had some help today. We put the steering box/column in. It looks like I can get by with a shorter/stubby oil filter and it will clear the box. We also threw on the inner fenders and radiator mount.
Looks like I will have to move the radiator forward. Anyone know if the 6 cylinder model radiator is mounted further forward compared to the V8?

 

I think the six cyl. Is more forward and the inner fender skirts are different. The radiator yoke is different also

 

I was thinking the same thing. I found a radiator surround for a 6cyl, I’m going get it headed my way.

 

I picked up a 6cyl radiator surround locally, but I don’t think I’ll need it. I was able to slide the v8 radiator surround forward around 1.5” including the lower bracket between the frame rails. I’ll have to drill new holes in the inner fenders.



mechanical fan will still clear the radiator.



I mocked up with rams horn manifold to figure out the motor mounts. I’ll definitely need a remote oil filter.


Threw the hood on just to make sure it clears with the radiator further forward.

 

I cut up an extra front cross member to use as motor mounts for the y-block. The mounts will bolt to the frame using the original rivet holes. I am also planning on using the factory style y-block rubber mounts. It doesn’t look great with the C-clamps holding it on but it will look like Ford installed the y-block when I’m done.



I made temporary front header and rear top bows. I wanted to make sure everything folds and fits. I threw a bed sheet on to get the rear bow adjusted to the right height. More little tweaks to make but it’s headed in the right direction.

 

Back in post #225, you mentioned you were going to move radiator ahead. Did you move the crossmember that supports the radiator yoke ahead? If possible, take a picture "chalking" out the 2 locations-old and new, please.
Thanks.

 

Yes, I moved crossmember forward to the 2nd set of holes in the frame. I’ll take pictures next time I’m at the shop.

 

Thanks.

 

@Algoma56
Couple pics below.

original v8 radiator and surround position.


Move radiator, surround, and cross member forward using what looks like factory holes.


In the upper right corner of the pic below, you can see the original radiator surround holes in the inner fender.


Unfortunately after getting my trans mounted and motor in it’s correct position , my plan if moving the original V8 radiator forward will not work (if I want to keep a mechanical fan). I need another inch. I will likely use a 6 cyl radiator and surround.

Below is a pic I copied from the web of a 6 cyl setup.

 

Thanks for the images. I'm going to do my best to move the radiator I have forward. It will give me enough room to use a mechanical, or other type, fan between the engine and radiator. I've been running a pusher fan on this for years, but since it's apart to do some drivetrain upgrades, I'll work on these changes too.

 

@Algoma56

I forgot to mention, moving the radiator forward shown in the pic gains a little over an 1” and is as far forward you can move a stock sized V8 radiator without modifying the inner fender and fender panel. The Hood and latch will clear, just drill new holes in the inner fenders and modify the lower splash panel and you should be set.

 

Over the weekend the family helped me lift the body off of the frame. Work will now turn to getting the chassis completed. I think this should go fairly quick.
I also got my transmissions back together and bolted to the yblock and torque tube for final engine positioning. Motor mount holes are drilled.

 

The chassis is down to a bare frame. The very rear cross brace for the fuel tank needs to be replaced; it is very pitted. Other than that, the frame is is great shape.
To get the stance right without using extra long shackles I decided to “unbox” the rear crossmember so the spring can sit up inside just like earlier Fords. After a few hours and struggles I got the result I was going for. I still have welding to do, but the photos show where I ended up.

 

I never knew the crossmember was too narrow. I just figured it would be simple to remove the bottom skin and drop the spring in. Still a more elegant solution than cutting the whole thing out and modifying.

 

That would have made it easy. I’m sure there are other ways to spread the channel apart but this idea seemed to have the least tear up.

 

Good progress -- I'm enjoying following along!

 

Since the last update, I have finished up the rear crossmember. I also cut out and replaced a pitted area on the bottom side of the frame rail near the gas tank. I also removed and made a new rear channel that the gas tank hangs from. It was pretty bad. Other than those 2 areas the frame was straight and not really pitted. Now to clean it up and prep for paint.

 

Haven’t updated in a while because not much progress has been happening. But, this weekend I had some good help and got my frame painted.

 

I'm