All my buddies running flatheads, closed driveshafts into banjo r. ends, say "you gotta have them or the clutch will chatter" So, when did Ford quite running them and why. The very few '49 to '54 Fords and none of the '55 and up chevys had them. So, what changed. I'm building a '32 with a sbc , T-170 to an open drive '40 r. end . Do I need them or not, just asking.
No you don't NEED them, but I think they might be a good idea on any car with motor mounts that might rock, like old Ford biscuits might. Ford stopped using them in 48, which probably corresponded to the last torque tube. I think their original purpose was to keep the attached torquetube and rearend from pushing the engine forward or back. But the clutch arm pushing the engine seems to be a good need for them as well.
I'm pretty sure Ford stopped using steady rods in '40, when the clutch linkage changed from direct acting on the release lever to a frame mounted "equalizer" which minimizes/eliminates any motion on the engine/trans. Improved rear trans mounting also came about this time. I added steady rods on my '32 to prevent movement with the T-5. I'm using a '34 clutch pedal operating a '51 Merc bell that uses the early style release fork, just like pre-'40.
I had a 41 convertible with early drive line and a 307 SBC. I modified my anti chatter rods and attached them to Chevy engine. I think I remember threading the rod, installing a Heim joint, and attaching them using one bolt that incorporated the motor mount.
41 Fords also had steady rods. They extended from the engine to front cross member. Last photo shows aftermarket "anti chatter" kit that bolted to engine and hooked to frame "X" member.
They do on my open drive with a slip yoke, to prevent engine movement, because of the early clutch linkage design.
interesting thought bob. i guess when they went to the pedals hanging under the dash then clutch linkage was no longer front to back, or interrupted by some sort of linkage. 57 T bird has them yet?
1940 is when Ford went to a clutch equalizer that cancels forces from the pedal linkage to the clutch linkage. The '55-'57 T-Birds as well as some early Y-block cars uses center-front engine mounts along with a center transmission mount that necessitated vertical struts or steady rods along side the engine to keep it from flopping side to side. Totally different function than the early Ford rods.
My good friend has a '47 convertible with a 312 Y block and '39 trans and stock '47 closed driveline and rear end. Hurst front engine mount with biscuits. Flywheel re-surfaced and new clutch parts. Has the Hurst anti-chatter bolt up front. Clutch chatters so bad he can hardly use it. He added a turn buckle to help steady it and that helped a little. It also has the old timey longer rear shackles to lower the car. I have heard that compounds the chatter. Any ideas for his clutch problems? '47 doesn't use anti-chatter rods. Thanks, Dave
Might be worth a try for your friend to install one of the after market "anti chatter" kits that I posted earlier OR make his own. Is he still using the FORD stock front suspension and wishbone? Also, replace the motor mount biscuits on the rear of the transmission and front of engine. Here's a helpful thread. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chatter-rods.762566/
With some oil on the clutch, and a little slack in the mounts, you can see 7 steering wheels in your hand, taking off.
I believe ‘46-‘48 Ford cars used a different type of trans mount so the rods weren’t needed. If you use side mounts for the SBC I think you’ll be ok. The rods are there to help eliminate front to back motion of the whole driveline because of the biscuits way in the front and the slight give of the transverse leaf rear?. I really miss Bruce.......
To go a little off topic here, full size Chevy 4wd's from the mid '90's, and probably more years than that, have a bracket that goes on the engine underneath the mounts that have support rods attached to them, for folks who may want to go that route. I was going to post a pic earlier when I was out in the garage, but I forgot to.
You don't need them with any sliding driveshaft or yoke. The forward driving thrust at the axle would try and push the engine forward on the rubber mounts. The clutch pedal was attached to the bellhousing making a smooth take off difficult to control
Man, I love the HAMB. My RPU is the first old ford I've built and I'm always learning stuff. I have a little chatter in reverse and it looks like I need to add some Steady Rods!
It's pretty easy to see if you need "steady rods". Carefully watch the engine and/or trans while you're dis-engaging the clutch. If you see movement, you need something to prevent this; new/better engine and/or trans mounts, or rods. Keep in mind the "steady rods" will not cure a shot clutch chatter.
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