Installed a 9 inch with rear disc brakes on my 32 frame with coilover . How did you guys route the brake lines over the rearend . Just looking for ideas possible pictures. Did u go stainless. I'm using a quick perfomance rearend with gm disk brakes. Any advice is appreciated.
Sketch up what you want first to help yourself. You will need a line going out to the rear and a hose going to a brass block, the lines come out of the brass block. This is in broad strokes. You'll need to mount the hose to a body anchor point and a place to locate the brass block to. Weld-on tabs are available.
I used flex hose to go from the frame to the 9 inch rear end, then hard line across the rear end to the backing plates. I welded a bolt and some tabs on the rear end for mounting the lines. The pictures are during mock up.... lines and hoses not rubbing on things now. Steel lines I bent.
I'm running almost the same set up I really appreciate the pictures it helps. Does the the soft line with the bolt the splits the brake line have a technical name. Thank you
I've thought about putting them to the front to kind of hide them from the rear view but wondered about gravel, rock damage. Where I live thats a real possibility.
I don't like the lines on the housing. This is how Pete and Jakes ran the stainless lines on my '32 chassis. Very little shows with the body mounted. SPark
I don't see a wrong idea in the bunch, nice work gents. Back about 25 years ago I got a car in the shop that the rear brakes didn't work on. Guy had bought it a few days before from someone else and then figured out that it didn't stop good. Got it up on the hoist, started looking and who ever had swapped rear axles had but the U bolts over the brake lines on both sides and cinched them down. It wasn't a hard fix but the customer sure wasn't happy with the guy he had bought the car from.
When routing brake lines be mindful of all clearances, this may not be an issue but merely camera angle. However if rubbing it will eventually wear through leading to failure and loss of rear braking.
I think you have to run a vent bolt, if you use the brass block 3 way union. they do them shorter if you use a 68 mustang rear brake flexi I think its something to do with the gears whipping the oil into foam. the goop doubling is size maybe, then finding its way past the seals.
Good eye, but those pics were during mock up and the front of the rubber line wasn’t attached. It’s all good now. Thanks. I also painted the steel lines with Eastwood Brake Grey paint (growing up in MN), but probably overkill.
Here is my idea on my Quick Performance 9" Housing using Nickel Copper Brake lines, 70's GM hose, Chrysler factory style vent, and some patience..... Lots of patience.....
I'm with LM14, ran individual flex lines to the wheel cylinders because I didn't like the look of a hard line across the housing.
Because you are using a disc brake rear end, you will want flexible lines directly to the calipers for ease of servicing. LM14's photos are of a 32 chassis with coil overs, and show a very attractive way to achieve this.
If that was meant for me... the bolt I used at the Y was one I welded to the rear end for that purpose. The vent is in another location. I’m going to use a vent ‘bolt’ like the last one in your post.
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