Technical Can I cut or shorten columns on two-post car lift?

I have an 11-foot max ceiling in my shop. Is there a way to cut down the columns on a two-post car lift that is 12 feet tall? If so, how do I shorten the cables?
I had an 10,000-pound Bendpak, and I recall that if I cut a foot off the top of each column, the top bar caps would have nested into the cut columns. But, the cables were swedged to threaded rods.
I appreciate your feedback.

 

Might be easier to put limiting dowels and a pressure cut off in the hydraulics?

I think of it as having a 12 foot roll up door and an 8 foot high clearance, do you cut the door down or limit the roll.

 

Contact either the manufacturer or an attorney. One of the two will come in handy.

 

If the columns lend themselves to this, Finding some vendor who can either shorten or replace your existing cables should be doable. Swedged cable ends are not rare in industry. Somebody is doing it. Some inquiries should provide a lead or two.

Ray

 

Hello Sir. Mick here from New Orleans.
This is an endevor not to be taken casually.
I would think contacting the Manufacturer
of said lift would be the first order of business.
An improper modification to this unit could cost some one their life! It is as we say in steel erection a safety
related item. Any and all modifications would need to be orchestrated under the directions of a qualified
engineer familiar with this particular unit. The manufacturer of the unit should be able to help
you proceed safely if at all. It is a very serious
matter.

 

^^^^^^ Very sound advice here! ^^^^^^ You'd be better off to modify the ceiling joist in your shop to accept the height of the lift.
EDIT: This is in response to mickeyc's post

 

How about digging down the 1 foot and sink the column then you won't have to shorten the cables or call a lawyer.

Pat

 

they do make shorter lifts. much safer than some half assed modification.

 

If you think you need to call a lawyer, re think the whole thing. It will be much cheaper in the long run.

 

How do you know it would be half assed?

 

Not knowing the specific design of the lifts in question, I really am at a disadvantage to offer advice (the post above notwithstanding), but a year ago I erected four 2 post lifts in my shop building, added to the one I had installed years ago. They arrived as ‘kits’ and I did all the work myself, so I am familiar with details of their particular design. They consist of a main column (2) and had bolt on sections to be added to the main column to reach full height.

Without the benefit of having gone back to my shop tonight to study the details, memory suggests that the column heights could be reduced by shortening the bolt on upper sections, and as has been mentioned, shortening the cables and possibly the hydraulic hoses and lock release cables.The hydraulic rams, it seems to me, merely would travel a shorter distance than with full height columns. Quite a bit of work, no doubt, and maybe reason enough to consider other options. But from a ‘safety’ standpoint, I see no particular hazard that would be created by such modification on the lifts I am describing. A different brand or design may be a different story.

Ray

 

I'll go back to my suggestion and explain why I mentioned it.

So, having grown up (like so many here) I drove tractors, pulled discs, plows, scraper, etc. The BeeGee pumps we used (very similar to the Logsplitter we made) all have a bypass in them. So, for instance when we wanted to limit travel on a ram, we used a metal clamp around it, so in effect, we shortened the throw. Much easier to build something with what you have, than spend $$ on a new ram. Once the ram was retracted and hit the stop, pressure built, and bypassed in the pump.

So, I assume (might be wrong) the lift is the same way and not relying on a limit switch of some kind, and if it is...then move the switch. A simple drop bolt that latched into placed on both sides (or all 4 posts) so that when the lift was raises, pins engage, pump bypasses, and subs to lock into place as well. When wanting to lower it, just bump it up scooch, pull the pins and let gravity do the rest.

As far as lawyers? Best get a signoff everytime you relocate a leafspring bracket...

 

My very first lift was in a garage with a 10' ceiling. I could put my S10 on it and raise it till the roof almost touched. Then I had to bend somewhat for everything I did under the vehicle . When I built my pole barn, I got a 2 post and sold the old 4 poster. The ceiling is 12'6" now. I can raise just about anything and stand up straight while under it.
My suggestion is to modify a pocket in your ceiling and leave the posts alone.........

 

Not to get too personal, but how tall are you? The reason I ask is because I too, have a 10,000 lb. 2 post Bendpak lift with a 10' ceiling height. I'm 6' 3" tall and can stand straight in the tunnel area of my '56 Chevy. Granted, in other area's I'm crouched over some ,but not uncomfortable. Depending on your physical height and what you are working on,you might not have to worry about it too much. Just try to run the post's up through the ceiling joist and make the tie-bar connection above the bottom chord of the truss or ceiling joist. If you can get away with what you have, GREAT! If not, it doesn't take much to raise the bottom chord of the truss or ceiling joist and reinforce the area. I say, put it up and see what you actually are working with before worrying about anything else. JMHO.

 

@Budget36 .....my lifts have a cross beam spanning the posts which serves several purposes. One of which is to support a tube suspended below it hinged at one end and the other end in a switch box. If the vehicle rises high enough to move the tube, the pump circuit is interrupted, stopping the lift. No need for clamps to ‘stall’ the pump.

Ray

 

Raise the ceiling

 

This was my solution.
I was lucky that the roof joists went the right way.
I reinforced the joists and stringers and framed the box, and used 1/8" plywood to cover it.

 

Hey Ray, the pump (if system is built correctly) has a bypass in it, very similar to power steering, in the logsplitter we built, my dad had it set up so once stalled, it auto reversed, then he could go forward again for another cut. Obviously not what you want in the OP's situation, but even with old tech we used, it's still a very reliable safe way to use hydraulics.

OT:
The only thing I ever out guessed my dad on in Hydraulics is when he added two rams for power steering to an old Clark lift we had, I knew he had the leverage wrong on the mounts and told him so. I smiled as it tore them off, then grunted and groan as he said "ok smart ass, fix it now".

 

I forgot to allow for the depth of the sheetrock when I drew up my garage plans. Thus there is a 3/4" deep hole where the lift pistons from my 2 post lift punched through the sheetrock first time I used it.

I'd sooner modify the ceiling than the lift or the floor.

 

X2

 

If you have low ceilings like I do. Consider getting yourself a Maxjax portable 4’ hoist and a couple sets of anchor bolts.
I can use it as a straight pull in lift. Or have it set up fore and aft so you have full access to the side.
FANTASTIC for block sanding without killing your back!


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

cool idea.

 

I don't know if by changing the length of the cables you might alter the travel in a way that might cause some problems. I have a direct lift that the ends of the cables that are adjustable to a certain degree. Mine works on the locks at so many intervals plus to take the pressure off the locks requires you to go up two inches more to release them. I believe that hemideuces idea would work best for you by lifting the ceiling if you can.

 

If none of the mechanism is in the bottom 1-1/2', cut off the column there. Or if none is in the top 1-1/2', versa/visa.
This all depends on how modular your unit is. If you have a lot of brackets and do-dads at the ends, go to Plan B.

 

Don't know how tall the OP is, but in reference to my post/quote above, I'm 6 feet. Given that an S10 sits pretty low, my 10 ft ceiling was insufficient. I had a 4 post lift at the time that meant ceiling clearance for it was no problem. The type of lift isn't as much the issue as the height of any vehicle that may be lifted. Simply measure the height of your tallest vehicle and subtract that from your ceiling height. If its a 2 post lift measure from the rocker panel to the roof and then add 6" for the lift arms. If someone has 10 ft ceilings and their vehicle has a 5' height, you only have 5' left. With todays popularity of SUVs, it isn't going to work for everything.
Modify the ceiling like some of the other posters have shown in their pictures and you have a much better situation. Also you have to remember that there is a safety bar near the top of your travel that will prevent over travel. You lose some of your lift height because of that, so if you shorten the posts you may not have enough room under it.

 

Raise the ceiling !

 

Just remember to close the door before you put the car all the way up!

 

If you look closely at the control column it has a piece of duct tape just for that reason

 

I’ve seen a few setups where just the columns go thru and above the ceiling, then to top cross bar is installed in the attic above the framing.

Also seen garage trusses reframed and ceilings raised.

 

In the machine shop world, you can't have a 6" stroke with a 4" tool...

I need to look at my garage height, I'm considering a lift myself. The Max Jax 2-post may be the way to go, Home Depot can order them. I was considering making some piers in the driveway with anchor nuts in them and set it up when I wanted to do some serious work... but all the neighbors would want to borrow it.

Balls... maximum height of lift is 48"... scratch that idea.