Hot Rods Real world cost of SBC rebuild vs crate engine?

First - hope everyone is doing OK. Seeing that we all have a bit more time on our hands I thought I'd ask for some coaching and experiences here.

I have a mild SBC in a project, early 1990s crate engine from GM that is tired. Oil pressure is on the low side once hot, rings allowing blowby, nothing catastrophic but it is tired. I was hoping to get some coaching on the real-world costs of doing a refresh / rebuild vs buying a crate engine. I don't need crazy power, longevity and good street manners are more important for this build.

I've looked around a bit and there are quite a few under $2k for short blocks from Jegs and Summit but most of those have been rebuild in Mexico and I'm skeptical (perhaps unfairly so) of how well they have been put together.

So this leads to two questions;

1) what is a realistic number to get a good/reliable 350 SBC crate engine for street use from a reputable source?

2) Assuming the existing SBC is sound but just tired, what should I budget for a refresh of that.

I'm in SoCal, so will at 50% to any labor figures provided from the good people in the Mid West for budget purposes.

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

M experience is about $3000 either way you decide. I personally would have a shop build a engine for me rather than buy a crate engine. Better to have someone close if problems arise. Easier to get warranty issues done. Plus you decide what heads ,cam,etc. This is missouri pricing.

 

Take a look at Blue Print Engines. Built in Kearney Nebraska and offered by several speed shops including Speedway.

 

Crate engine - delivered in days. Engine shop build - months? Years?

 

Can still purchase from a dealer too.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I agree with Krylon32 I’ve been running a Ford 302 in an off topic car and I am very please with the price performance.
Also it does a little drag strip duty on the weekends as well.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I put a 350 crate engine from G.M. in the coupe in 2001. Still going strong and you can use a lot of the parts you currently have.jmho. Snowman

 

Rings, bearings, cam and lifters, timing set, valve job, gaskets and seals, incidentals, not counting your labor, you might be able to do it for around a grand and a week's time.

I usually do everything myself except machine work. The more I look at it, the crate motor looks pretty good sometimes...

 

Everything boils down to money , ability , time and desire.

 

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19355658.html
Right form your GM dealer. 290 hp 350ci. Factory warranty. $2800

 

As a semi retired engine builder from the East cost with probably similar labor rate it’s hard to not consider the a crate engine. I still have a lot of my own equipment and do my own work and even when I get done looking at just the price of parts alone I’ve asked myself should I just get a crate. On the other side some people like to assemble themselves for the enjoyment. If that’s you then maybe look into having the machine work done but if your going to pay to have the whole job done than you’ll probably be going crate. The Chevy dealer I use works well with the local hot rod guys and goes easy with the price. I like the fact I can speak to someone face to face and they load it in the truck when it comes in and I don’t have to schedule around when the shipping company says they’ll be there.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Crates are for oranges, but that’s JMO. I always prefer to farm out a bore/ hone, crank grind if needed and head work to a known, reputable shop. Careful assembly and attention to detail always pays dividends, and lastly I’d never buy a cam because it sounds cool.

 

I've done both, I built the engine in my Deuce Roadster and the engine in my Woodie is a crate engine, both are Chevy 350's. I think if I was going to do another car, the crate engine would be my choice. At my age, I'm looking for reliability over speed and big horsepower, so the warrantee that comes with the crate engine is a factor. Also there are fewer and fewer shops that do engine machine work in my area, for example the shop that did my work is gone.

 

Hard to argue with this.
If it were me though I would diagnose what's going on with your motor. How many miles are on it?

 

Thanks for all of the responses, excellent advice and thoughts. Thank you very much.

My sense was that, unless I did it all myself, a crate engine would probably be less brain damage and may well be cheaper (at least here in SoCal).

@gonzo - I don't have a history on it so hard to tell other than what I shared on oil pressure and blowby. A new crate engine minus whatever I can see this one for as a core (not much) is probably less than paying a shop.

 

I am NOT a great engine builder (and I am way past 70) but the engines in both cars in my avatar were assembled by me. Did I have issues caused by my own ineptitude? Yep I do as much work on my cars as my skill set will allow me (I hired a real mechanic for my 700R4). In the unlikely event I build another car I will do the engine myself, just so I can say "I did it"

 

I'm facing a similar decision but I have a 327 in my '55 Chevy. I have had both for years and the old engine has the same symptom as your engine.

I suspect I will go the professional rebuild route as I am partial to the old engine and do not want to give it up.

As for your dilemma I would opt for the crate and be done in a weekend.

 

How many miles do you plan to drive the car? If you realistically won't put more than a few thousand miles a year on it, then a minor overhaul might be all you need.You can do this yourself for under $1000. But if you want it to be like new, you're gonna have to spend some dough. If you don't have a local machine shop you trust, then you're probably better off buying a new crate engine, from a place that has a good reputation for dealing with warranty issues.

The lower cost GM crate engines are made in Mexico still, as far as I know, because that's where they have the old tooling. The US GM engine plants quit making these engines almost 20 years ago. If you buy from another source, such as Blue Print, ask about where the parts are made.

 

Read closely on the Jegs site. You can get a GM crate. Then Jegs offers their crate style for a few dollars less. It's a rebuilt seasoned core. I've ordered two crates in the last few years from eBay. Licensed GM dealers. Free shipping. Pay close attention the last one delivered to the inside of my garage. This is my opinion.

 

Since you are asking this question, I assume you either haven't built an engine before or have very limited experience.
If you had some experience AND the necessary specialty tools a limited refresh would probably be just fine and lots cheaper. You need things like a hone and a torque wrench at the minimum and they will add to your cost.

I would stay away from local machine shop builds. They really don't save money and they often have problems.

There are several different ways to look at "crate" engines. You have lots of OEM options that are reasonably priced and they come with a LONG warranty. Then you sell your old engine to offset the costs.
Then there are " aftermarket crate" engines. Often come with aluminum heads and a warranty. They will cost somewhat more but you can get more performance.

Given your needs and apparent lack of a lot of experience, I would go with a crate type of engine from GM as the first choice. Which choice is best changes with the knowledge and experience of the person making the choice. A REAL warranty that can be resolved at a local GM dealer or Summit Racing is important. If the company you buy from requires you to return ship at your cost, thats a lot less likely to be satisfactory.

Here is the wording for "Blueprint Engines" copied from the Summit Racing Site.

Automobile crate engines carry a 30-month or 50,000-mile warranty. Marine Crate engines carry a 12-month warranty. Circle Track and short block engines carry no warranty. BluePrint Engines expressly warrants that its engines are of good quality and free from defects in materials or workmanship. Purchaser acknowledges that BluePrint Engines has made no affirmation of fact or promise relating to its engines outside of this limited warranty and BluePrint Engines has provided the purchaser no description, sample, or model of its engines upon which the purchaser has relied in deciding to purchase a BluePrint engine. BluePrint Engines will, at its sole discretion, replace defective parts or a complete engine. All repairs will be made at the seller's or distributor's costs, plus applicable labor. Prior authorization is required from BluePrint Engines before warranty work is begun. Call BluePrint Engines at (888) 808-9573 for a numbered authorization. Warranty claims with BluePrint Engines will take 2-3 weeks to process.
Note: Also saw something about 30 day return somewhere in the ad.

On Jegs site they had "Goodwrench" GM crate engines :
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12681429/10002/-1
Ad says the engine has a 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty and lots of good reviews.

Something I noticed on Summit was that GM "Performance Engines" don't come with a warranty. So I guess their warranty varies between the Goodwrench versions and the High Performance versions. Double check me on that though.

Anyway, a 3 year warranty seems like the best choice for what you want.

 

I fully agree with vtx1800 above. Unless you just got a lot of money laying around and don't take real pride and what you can do or produce then heck yes go buy an engine.

But as for me I have a huge huge amount of satisfaction and pride in knowing that I did virtually everything including the engine & Jag rear end and transmission (except for the interior) when I built The Judge. To each his own...

 

My last SBC build was for a OT truck about 5 years ago. Machine shop did machining and got the parts, I assembled it. Total price was right at $2200. Included boring and new pistons, ring, turned crank, etc.

 

Great minds think alike. And sometimes even guys like me agree with squirrel. If your block has fairly low miles since being bored, the cylinders should be good enough to take a re-ring. Rod and main journals don't usually wear badly. I'd take if apart and measure things first.

 

Here’s my two cents! I started my 32’ a couple years ago. I had found a decent 265, not super but would do! Anyway guess my wife could sense my lack of enthusiasm for the tiny Chevy. She’s quite a shopper. Around my birthday a crate 350 shows up. I think it came from Summit. It’s the truck version rated at 195 horse with the TBI or 260 with a four barrel. Bottom line she purchased it on special, $1395, with free delivery. It has a 3 year warranty. I plan on a cam change and a 600 Holley double pumper, my ride is stick and a quick change. Even found some rare 62 Chevy valve covers. Anyway check it out. Don’t forget how much your old motor will get if you sell it! Plus all things considered the prices might start to fall as time goes by!

 

I might have $2200 into my short block which was done at a local shop (LAB in Lindenhurst NY). But I picked out every piece with the help of the owner, Lee.

Speedway had a 420HP 350 for $3800 at the time. But I'd have to change to a front sump pan and drill a hole for the oil pump pickup retaining bolt into the block web. Which I'm sure would violate the warranty.

Plus it was more fun to do and it came out great. I have nobody else to blame if it went bad.

 

Based on recent experience, if it wasn't for the fact that I insisted on keeping the same L79 spec'd 327 in my Nomad that has been in it since the early '70s, I would have went with the GM 383 crate motor. After almost a year in the machine shop, labor rates and parts cost, I would have had several thousand $$$$s left over for other things. Would have gotten more HP, bottom end torque and drivability but thats the trade off when you desire that early SBC high rev seat of your pants feel!

 

Yep those are cast crank SBC....great street rod or cruiser motors...run forever

 

I agree with those that feel the sense of pride that comes with assembling your own engine. The thing is, if someone wants high performance, then the expense of a crate engine gets quite high. In that case, some frugal searching and looking at a kazillion smallblock builds in old automotive magazines can yield an inexpensive self assembled yet high performance engine.

On the other hand, I can also see that many people do not have the expertise,experience, or knowledge to assemble an engine..........even a daily driven type of engine on their own. Circumstances vary and experiences vary. I have always felt sorry for anyone who never grew up around an old garage and got to turn some wrenches. Its never too late to learn, but experience is usually best gained by helping someone else who has some experience. Then build your own with the friend serving as your base of knowledge. Yes, for me I like the idea of building my own engines for the most part. For someone with no experience, a crate engine is probably best.

 

What is the intended use? Racing? Street? If street use, how many miles a year? Are you gonna hit the road with it, or local cruise nights, burger joints, car shows only? If the later, chances are that you can simply renew the crosshatch with a ball hone, re-ring it, new bearings and freshen up or replace the oil pump, and be good for another couple of decades, or more. Pull the heads and inspect, get/borrow a set of mics and check the wear in the bores.

 

shop here 350 290hp $3700 canadian