Projects 1928 Hemi Powered Chevrolet Roadster - Coupster

on the gas pedal location you could try tacking on a plate like this drill holes 1/2" apart and tap the holes.easy then to get the position correct.i say drill the pedals too. I was able to incorporate a return stop as well,

 

Nice build and post. I like how you gave prices for what you bought and got free. it puts things in perspective.

 

I wasn't found of the stanchion to cowl to A-pillar transition into the doors so I went after it again. The 32 ford lower stanchions did fit the curvature of the cowl so these new patches had to have the complex curve put into them. At the suggestion of the a fellow Hamb'r, I also moved the windshield. I had to buy a new frame since I narrowed the first one too much. This time, I took .880 out of the width. I re-posted the original position for reference

 

Here is a picture of the piece I cut out. Behing the stanchion is a 3/16 doubler plate that is welded to the A-piller. I also rounded our the top corner to get rid of the sharp corner that I had before.

 

Here is a picture of the drivers side and the gap under the frame. Again its not even but the seal will close the hole.

 

Lastly, a few shots of the next task. Fix the door blend into the cowl. This will take a little thought as well. I am slow so it'll take me a few days to think about how I am going to do this. The radius ends right at the top hinge so I think this will work out but it could result in a pretty narrow point on the inner most portion of the door where it meets the dash.

 

Takes some guts to cut into it like that but I like the end result. Will follow to see how you approach blending in the doors.

 

I spent a little time fiddling with the door top this evening. I cut the old out and rebuilt it. Here is the before and after. The top cap is only tacked in place so there is still a fair amount of finish work to do. What do you think?

 

couple more in process pics.....

 

yup.

 

Nice work mate, good to see a couple of '28s floating around on the forum here.

Im with you on the windscreen stanchions, good for a resto but not much else. I had thought of using Ford ones but after your effort to fit them maybe I will make a set.

I like where your going with the door tops! Looking the goods.

And on a side note I love the hemi but dont envy the limited clearance your going to have you will make it work!

Cheers,
Josh

 

roughed out the RH door top this evening

 

I'm always amazed at the craftsmanship that goes into so many projects on this forum. This is going to be a really nice ride when you get done with it! I like that you retained the six lug wheels and parallel leaf suspension too, something you don't see very often.

 

Cool stuff, I am also building a 28 Coupster from a Landau Coupe here in New Zealand.

 

Well not a ton of progress on my project. Between work, tuning up motorcycle, and some honey-do projects, I've gotten very little done. The wife had me finish a tailgate bench she wanted. The isolation thing has made it a pain to get the sealer I want so that'll have to happen whenever its delivered.

 

I really do no enjoy working with wood but I figured since I had all the tools out, I might as well work on a folding top for the chevy. I know this is way out of order for the build but in my case since everything is scratch built, I wanted to make sure I had all the mounts in the proper place before I got into serious bodywork. The top bows have slip fit in the center and fold rather nicely so I think the fold and stow will work just fine although I really have no plans on ever running with the top up...... its a nice option to have just in case.

 

A couple more pictures of the roughed in top. I still have a lot of finish work to complete on the brackets and front header. The header is Poplar and is slotted for the window and clearance for the upper stanchions. I still need to add the pins and latches. The bow across the back is mounted in four locations and I am planning in running a simple wing nut for easy removal.

 

I like the top. I'll be doing that someday.
I'm not sure right now but normally Wall Mart delivers for free. I had a big jug of purple Cleaner and 4 gallons of Evapo Rust delivered about 25 miles from the store. You might get you wood sealer.

 

Good timing as I will need to do this next year...
spoke to some electricans about bending conduit...
I wanted tighter radius' than the normal 6"...
he told me of a 5" bender but he didn't have one...
how did you bend yours and at what radius ? thanks

 

Have you given any thought to cross-steering ? It locates the steering box well forward of the starter, just behind the crossmember, and usually allows room for headers. It eliminates bump-steer that is common with draglink-style, side steering.

 

Those B-pillar panels look like Louis Chevrolet had a part in that ! Looks very strong.

 

Here is a side view with a driver. The head room is still pretty good and the top lines aren't too blocky. I might end up tweaking the bow lengths a little more. once I start the finish work on the top bows and header.

 

I didn't look at cross steer mainly because I am trying to keep traditional components. I am sure yet what kind of exhaust I want but I think I'll have the room to run lakes or out-the-back.

As far the bumpsteer, this thing should drive the same as every other early Chevy. I maintained steering geometry of the pitman arm swing point in relation to the steering knuckle and rear shackle. I guess if the front end gets too heavy then I could swap out the steering philosophy. These cars are never "done".

 

I'm not exactly sure what year this Chevy steering box is but it fits the stock mount on my '25 frame, which is also the back of the left front spring perch. The original mount for this box is still on it in the pictures. With this mount system the box can swivel in the mount for some adjustment. Since '28 was the last four cylinder but they lengthened the frame in preparation for the six cylinder this box and columns is obviously a '28 or later. Your original may have been much the same. The '50s truck boxes are big and heavy. I had planned to use one too.

 

Well, I've been working on the car but mostly small, less glamorous items like patch panels on the cowl and finishing off some of the inner structure welding. I also redid the header on my top because I just wasn't happen with it.

One of the more significant things was to finish out the gutters around the trunk opening. I cut all four flat patterns out of 20 gauge, bead rolled the cross section then formed the curve on the stretcher.

 

Here are the gutters installed and welded in position. I also bent up a support for the trunk prop.

 

Oh the progress, or lack thereof. I had to take care of my harvest (Mule Buck, WT Doe and a Pronghorn Buck) from late year. To keep to HAMB friendly, I am giving you a booty shot of the 28.

 

I have been working to straighten out my door gaps and hone in the final fitment of the panels. As such, I slightly reconstructed my door latch because I was not happen with how far the Pin protruded
into the door opening so I moved the latch out closer to the jamb.

I also started to sling some lead on the body seams.

 

Bttt...hows the Termite Starving Hemichevy coming along @mrrilla?

 

Was wondering about this project the other day, hope to see some updates on it.