good work on the old truck, you will be a fine fabricator some day. now, lets talk pto's and dump trucks. many of the older hoists had the pump and the control mounted right on the cylinder. they had a big enough cylinder housing to hold all the oil necessary to extend the cylinder without the need for a separate oil tank. scissor type hoists mostly, as a long modern telescopic type needs more oil, thus needs an oil tank. so, if you find an older type hoist its just a matter of hooking a drive shaft to your pto, and make a mounting bracket for a lever, and a rod going back to the control on the pump. a short drive shaft will usually run fine alone, but longer than about 4' should have a bearing in the center. and the shaft will need a slip yolk at one end to allow for frame flex. both ends of the drive shaft will need a u joint and the proper size yoke to fit your pto and pump. all this stuff is expensive if you have to buy it new. do you have an old time junk yard near home? they always save this stuff for building tow trucks. i have it all sitting here doing nothing, if you were closer i'd give it to ya. when looking for a hoist, if it has a yoke and shaft included thats a plus. for the lever we just make a bracket out of angle iron that mounts on two of the bolts that hold the trans shifter top on, use a piece of 1/4" x 1" flat stock for the lever, and cut the proper hole in the floor to make it work. let me know if you need a part or two, best wishes
This was very helpful thank you so much for the input. I don’t actually have any of the things to do this and that’s why I inquired. We don’t have a ton of money so nothing for it would be bran new. There is a junk yard that I know of that’s about 45 minutes away and after this whole “stay at home” order lifts up I’ll be able to take a visit down and see what’s there. I really appreciate it because this all explained it so well. If I get going on this I’ll definitely ask for some parts but still not sure yet
I think this is the last metal replacement I made for the cab. It’s been a long time coming to be able to say this Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
For sure. This is my plan for tomorrow. Depending if it all gets grinder down I plan Thursday to be able to lay down a simple primer layer down just to be able to see all the imperfections I’ll need to further address Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Awesome thread. And if @Mart is giving you props, builder of "Ol' Rusty", you know you are doing good. Keep at it. It will all be worth it in the end!
Getting a ton done. It’s so nice I can just be in a tee shirt, its a good feeling. It’s all starting to clean up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also anyone know if these pins are threaded? Or the best way to get them out? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There's a press made for pressing out the hinge pins - this is what they look like. You can do it yourself with a C-clamp and some ingenuity though. Deep well sockets make pretty good supports for something like that.
I made a pusher for one of those pins. It was very very difficult to get out. (I only did one). As your cab is not fixed down, would it be possible to have it upside down with a piece of strong tubing supporting the hinge, solidly grounding it to a concrete floor. Then you might stand a chance of drifting the pins out by hitting them downwards backed up by the floor. Purely theoretical, never tried it. Mart.
Looking good! I didn't catch what your plan was for slowing down future corrosion, but I prepped and used Zero-Rust on the inside and bottom of the body on my coupe and my '48 AD pickup.
Just now noticing I didn’t share this info yet. Here it is! I intend to do the same but with this product below. I plan on spraying all the inside with it as well as under and probably the step up as well. I may go a few inches up from the bottom but still debating. I know where the rust damage was before and would like to paint all parts that were previously hit bad with this. The outside and top will just be painted with a simple grey filling and sand-able primer Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Busted out the sand blaster today and while it’s not very efficient I used it on the areas needed it best. Granted I’m not doing this as a final primer, just a first layer so I can get an idea for where I need to address more carefully. Still wanted to get as much cleaned up now so I’m not just painting over potential problems later. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I painted today. Not perfect but pretty descent and good coverage. This is the rust protector and I’ll put the primer on next when this drys well. A few runs but this is only the first layer so I can get a feel for what body work needs done still. My dad smiled to see his old truck coming around which was a good feeling Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just fit up the dash and headboard to see how it would look. It’s come a long way Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Getting a lot of Bondo work done. It’s not done yet just roughing in. I’ll do the fine bits another day and really get into the nitty-gritty imperfections
Painted some primer just to see all the imperfections I was dealing with and what a difference. It’s obvious the difference between step ups that I had started to work on. I ran out of primer for the top left and that’s the only one I couldn’t get to. The last picture really shows all the imperfections on the back
Looking really good! Keep at it and in no time flat you will have a gorgeous truck to drive round town! Mike
Before I had applied some Bondo i really made sure to mark up everything I could see. After all this is done I’ll do another coat of primer and hopefully have gotten it all, if not I’ll do one last run of Bondo work and prime a 3rd and final time
Got a ball grinder today to really get into the tight spots on these door step-up areas My current project up against a past project
Started to get rid of rust damage on the splash guards This is the other one, pretty proud of this piece, while it’s not perfect i think I did a decent job of getting a good amount of the curvature into the piece. I’ll still need to grind down some welds and clean up some edges but for the most part I think these are done. They aren’t very visible so not crazy concerned about how amazing they look but still good enough to not look like a pile of rust
The Jalopy Journal
