Hey HAMB fam - I've got a 1963 Comet with a 289 out of a '66 Mustang. It's a total dog, running 100psi per cylinder. I've got a line on a 302 out of a '91 Mustang. Does anyone know if this motor will drop right in? I'm sure I'll have to replace the tranny too (currently a 2-speed ford-o-matic). Thanks all! RNY
It is the same physical size the 302 aka 5.0's after 1982 had a balance factor of 50 oz your 289 is 28 oz so if you bolt it up to the Ford-O-Matic you will need a matching 50 oz flexplate might be hard to find, the AOD from the Mustang is one of the preferred years for the AOD (still non-computer) but you may have to do some work on the floor tunnel for it to fit.
My buddy has a 63 Ford "Mayberry Police Car", it had a 260 and Larry had the opportunity to pick up a rebuilt 289/C4 combo from a 67 Mustang. We all told him it would "drop right in". After we were done doing the swap, Larry said, "When someone tells you it will 'drop right in', it just means the hole is big enough!". The only thing that we didn't have to modify was one transmission cooling line. We could not find motor mounts that were a direct fit, something about '63 1/2. I ended up slotting the left hand frame bracket. Plus we retained the original generator so had to find the right water pump to fit the 260 timing cover. But in the end, it all worked and he still drives it. This was probably 10 years ago and Larry still repeats that statement. To answer your question, it can be done, but personally I would keep and rebuild the 289. If you are not familiar with Fords, the 63, if original, will have a 5 bolt bellhousing which will affect transmission choices. Hope this helps some. Ron Edit: Just reread your post, '66 289 should have 6 bolt bellhousing, will make things easier. Good luck.
It is highly unlikely that your 289 is a 1966 if it has a 2-speed Ford-o-matic behind it. Ford stopped the Ford-o-matic in 1964 [1965 was the last year of 5 bolt bellhousings] The 91 Mustang 5.0 will be a roller cam "HO" engine and if possible try and get the trans with it. It will be an AOD which will require moving the rear cross-member and shorten the driveshaft [which is worth it] Make sure you get the years correct because in 1992 the trans was electronic computer control [AODE] With the 5.0 engine , dont sell the 289 there will be a lot of peripherals needed to swap over. The oil pan is rear sump on the 5.0 and front sump on the 289 so this and the oil pump pickup needs swapping. The same with the pulleys and water pump unless you want to run the serpentine belts. If you want to use a carb and mechanical fuel pump you will need to swap the front timing cover and add the fuel pump eccentric to the cam. [this will also move the dipstick tube to the R/H front, and you'll need to plug the old dipstick tube hole] You can also swap the intake and distributor at this stage [the 5.0 HO distributor is computer advanced]
If it’s a ‘66 289 most likely it has a dual range C4. The 63 Comet will have the Ford o Matic Column indicator. This is what I’m getting at. It’s possible due to the transmission if it’s dual range green dot C4, and the ‘63 Fordomatic shifter , that you are starting and driving in 2nd gear. The early C4s had two drives Green Dot ( standard drive) and white dot 2nd gear only. More than one early C4 has been burned up by using the wrong drive. Post some photos of what you have. BTW 100 psi per cylinder is not too bad. As long as they are all within a few pounds of each other, that engine may be fine. Big swings in compression per cylinder....That’s trouble.
I don't think the 289 oil pan will work on the 5.0L because of the 1 piece rear seal... I could be wrong...
You are one year off with the exception of some Lincolns the last non-computer AOD was in 1993 http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...rading-fords-automatic-overdrive-transmission The best donor AOD's are from 1989-93 those have the improved valve body and the later lubrication upgrades the 1990-93 also have stamped steel direct drums.
You are wrong, we have had a fair amount of guys in the 1952-59 Ford Social Group use the 289 front sump oil pans and matching timing covers in 1954-59 car engine swaps with the later 5.0/302's I have the 5.0 and AOD in my '54 with the early front sump pan,1982 and later 302/5.0's you have to plug the driver's side dipstick hole and use a front sump style timing cover which has a dipstick provision.
Redneck yoga after you get your 5.0 swapped in I would be interested in your 289 block. You did not say what your location is. It would feasible to ship through Fastenal. If it would be too far to drive to pick it up . Not interested in the heads or rotating assembly just the block and main caps. I used the same Milodon front sump pan that fits a 5.0 block on my late 65 289 block .
Well, it always shifts once (always assumed it's from 1st to 2nd). That means it's in drive? Or do either of the low gear options actually shift? thanks!
You Are! Oil pan fits fine. For leak PROOF pan install.....clean engine and pan rail with either Acetone/Lacquer thinner/Brakleen and use RTV in lieu of a pan gasket. Don't by shy with the RTV......set pan in position while RTV is soft...and torque down. Wait a day before filling with oil. It's a booger to get back off but......how often do you plan to remove the pan?! IT WON'T LEAK!! 6sally6
If you want to retain your original 289 pulleys and water pump you can use this harmonic balancer with a later 302/5.0 that has the 50oz balance factor. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Prof...-Harmonic-Balancers,1802.html?sku=91015365-50
Never did an engine swap in a Comet. I imagine it would be the same that I did in my Pinto. 289 swap had to install new motor mounts(bolted to the frame) Had to change the oil pan. I forget what I used. Had to cut the fire wall back 3" or so. Cut out for the radiator. Rear end from a 57-59 Ford PU. Fit right in. Punch holes in fenderwelds for headers. Punch hole for C4 floor shifter. Used the same trans mount. The Comet is a little larger than a Pinto so you might not have to cut for the radiator.
I've helped a couple of buddies with small block Ford projects over the past 50 years and "it will just drop right in and hook up" does not apply to anything you swap between years or sometimes models of Fords in those year ranges. We used to say that you not only had to know all the year, model and what not you had to know the color because it came down to parts from red Fords didn't fit on blue Fords of the same year and basic model.
Flathead Dave why did you have to cut the firewall on your Pinto ? I put a 289 and a C-4 in a pinto in a weekend . My brother and I pulled the 2300 out on Friday night and I drove the cat to work on Monday. A 64 Fairlane 8 inch rear was a straight bolt in . The pinto drive shaft was used with the same u joints. A set of motor mounts and front exit headers were in the swap kit we bought from a Ford high performance place in Mt.Clemens, Mi. The exhaust went forward and over the rack. a remote filter and pan swap from a Mustang 2 was used. Pinto shifter was a straight bolt in. No cutting of the core support just a Mustang 2 V8 radiator and mechanical fan. It mostly bolt together and go.
[QUOTE="Mimilan, You can also swap the intake and distributor at this stage [the 5.0 HO distributor is computer advanced][/QUOTE] Don’t forget to change the distributor gear. The mustang engine requires a steel gear to match the roller camshaft. CN
You might want to read the product description regarding the drive gear here: https://www.skipwhiteperformance.co...lete-distributor-long-shaft-6502-5-red_91888/ In almost all cases you do not need to swap gears with Ford roller cam motors,you do if you are using an aftermarket steel billet camshaft. This thread also addresses that: https://www.corral.net/threads/distributor-gears-and-ford-roller-cams.2203986/
63 Comet is a slightly longer 63 Falcon. Same platform. First year for factory v8. Get a set of Mustang v8 motor mounts, make sure that the air cleaner stud ends up 11 1/2" from firewall. Bob's your uncle. Easiest engine swap in history. No muss,no fuss, no runs, drips, or errors.
I can't say for certain on a C4, but that is backwards from the way a C6 from 1966 works. I'll try to map it out a little better than my explanation, these are all of the positions from Park to Low, or first. P=Park R=Reverse N=Neutral D=2nd gear start, shifting to High. 2=1st gear start, trans will go through all 3 gears normally. 1=1st, or Low I hear people say that Dual Range transmissions were prone to burning up if driven in the wrong gear, I don't see how that is possible, unless a person shifted into reverse while moving forward and vice-versa. We had a saying that we used back in the '70's, "White dot for snow, Green dot for go!" I know it seems odd that Ford put the "normal" Drive range in what we all think of as the 2nd gear position on the shifter, maybe it was to keep inexperienced drivers from using all of the available torque
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