Technical What’s your set up for pressing wrist pins look like?

Removal isn't much of a precision thing, depends on what you're reusing i guess. I throw a little heat on the small end of the rod and knock them out with a punch. But on the other end of things i get Bob at the machine shop to put them back together, not worth the aggravation

 

I just use snap ring pliers...

 

Here is a Kent Moore tool if this comes with the blue arch fixture it is a deal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254531163583

 

Although I could, I’m not interested in dropping these off at the machine shop.
Nor am I interested in any reconfigurations that eliminates the press fit and moves over to circlips.

seems like a lot of hoopla to save a set of cheap pistons

 

I assume the customer wants them saved,,,,,they are just a set of dish,,,even though goods ones at that ?
Might not be worth the trouble of saving ?

Tommy

 

Oh I've tried doing my own pin fitting with a torch, but when you don't get the pin set properly before the rod cools enough to shrink its a real pain in the ass...

 

If there a cheap set of pistons then you can experiment to see what works and what doesn't.

 

If it's in working order, good price.

 

I have been following this since the beginning, and today I had to try and see if I could come up with something to press the pins out, and back in. I used a 4 inch long 1" nipple, with a relief cut in it to clear the piston, and a 4 inch long 5/8" bolt to press them out. I pressed 8 out, and back together again without issues, no binding after reassembly. Pretty nifty, though I won't guarantee a product that can be re-sold. The most interesting thing I discovered was that SBC connecting rods can have huge looking differences in the amount of material on the balancing pads. Thanks @'51 Norm for posting his homemade setup, especially the tip about needing some clearance for the ring land.

 

Here's the setup I use for press fit rods: The Wrist pin is sandwiched between a mild steel pilot which is a couple of thou' undersize and a steel pin which is also slightly undersize the three are held together with a bolt. The pilot prevents the pin from getting "cocked" when it's pressed into the rod.




BTW, these H beam rods are highly unusual in having press fit style small ends. A large number were made for some proof of concept testing for a UK manufacturer's engine upgrade project; a friend of mine rescued some from the manufacturer's dumpster once the project had run its course.

 

And put a box with a pillow below the press, just in case

 

The tool that Squirrel shows is the way to get them out, especially if you want to reassemble the same items. I have that tool and yes it is expensive. Heat is your friend for reassembly. The tool holds the rod so there is never any pressure on the piston. I learned the hard way back when Lincoln was president that pressing them out with all the pressure on the piston would sometimes/almost always crush the piston and the piston/wristpin clearance disappears.

 

Yep!... Hope you's guys got micrometers!!!....

 

The local machine shop. The end of the rod needs to be heated before the wrist pin is installed. This one is better left to the pros

 

Yes, as 4wd1936 mentioned the tool that Squirrel posted the picture of is the one to use. It supports the connecting rod at the small end as the diagram posted by Johnny Gee shows. I used to have this in my shop and you could press on and off without any damage. If used properly, nothing contacts the piston with this fixture.

Lou

 

So to wrap this one up,,,
I threw the 2 boxes, new pistons and used pistons on the rods at the guy.
Told him the address of my machinist and said get them there before 10am with a 12 pack and $50 he’s expecting you.
Push off 8 and install 8 for $50 and some beer- picked up right after lunch.

 

See, if I had the proper tool I'd have done it just for the beer...sigh...