Technical sbc mounts positioning

Hi everyone !
I have a 32 pinched frame for a model A. I want to install my sbc chevy engine and would like to have some measurements to confirm my plans.
What is the distance, centerline to centerline from front cross member to sbc engine mounts (the side mounts under headers) do you suggest ?
Thank you for your help
Jeff

 

Look here P&J tech info


https://www.peteandjakes.com/tech/

 

Thanks you for the link,
It helps but i have the biscuits style motor mounts (flat head style) not the one used on the P&J tech sheets.
Not sure the sheets shows the centre line mounts measurement.

 

Mock up the motor and trans as best you can,give us some info. what firewall is in it,what trans,fenders is it a repop?

 

Go to wescott bodies they have that info http://www.wescottsauto.com/SubIndexes/Techindex.html

 

P&J uses the 60's style non-locking OEM motor mounts. They bolt to the bosses on the engine with no offset. If you're biscuit style mounts bolt to block similarly, then you should be able to take the dimension from P&J, and use it to find centerline of mount. Just have to remember that P&J gives distance from the radiator mount holes to front edge of steel mount on chassis, so you'll have to factor in the thickness of the front edge of motor mount. (68-72 non-locking insulator mount)

 

350 sbc with th350 trans, no fenders
Chassis is a repro 32 pinched frame from Socal.
Firewall is an original 1930.

 

Will try this, thanks!

 

I don't know how many engine swaps you've done, but it's been my experience that things tend to go a lot better if you mock up the whole car, before welding in motor mounts. Things you didn't think of have a habit of getting in the way, and things get measured wrong, or there is something about the car that someone else built that's different from what you're building, that makes it not fit the same.

In other words, don't get ahead of yourself.

 

Yeah, you need to mock it up, all pinched frames aren't the same for one.....

 

Second time...first Time was to put my combo on an original model A boxed frame (car is fendered). I enjoyed the car for a few years the way i built it but want to change the style now

 

I have a Brookville 32 pinched for an A with biscuit mounts for a SBC. This is bracketed done by Brookville so this is where they calculated it should be. I agree mocking everything is the best route but if you want these measurements I’d be happy to send them


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It is exactly what i'm looking for, i'll really appreciate your measurements. Centre radiator mounting holes to centre of biscuits mounts if possible.
Thanks

 

Glad I can help, I’ll go out the garage and measure
Right back

 

Looks like 15 1/2” Measured a few times, real close if not exact.


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If you mock it as Brookville does, you have to run an electric fan.. I agree with others.. You really need to have radiator inplace and water pump and fan blade on the motor to get the height right.. Brookville sets their motor mounts to low in my opinion... Mock it up right so you don't have to do it again...

 

Am I missing something here? Looks like 14 3/4" to me.
Am I looking at this wrong?

 

Sorry, totally my fault,
Yes, 14 3/4”
As far as the electric fan, I’ve mocked up the radiator and I don’t need and electric fan, short water pump.

 

Tac weld everything first, then if satisfied go back and weld.
I learned this the hard way.

 

I have everything in place on a model A frame, i already run an electric fan.
Everything will be transfered on the pinched chassis but before doing want to verify sole measurements to place engine at the adequate place beetwen original firewall and radiator.
Mounts should be welded flush to the top of the rails. Any opinion on this ?

 

Brookville mounts are low, I agree. I’ve heard line the top of the oil pan flange to the top of the frame rail for mounting height.
My 2 cts

 

Yup ^^^^^ Jim is right on here.

The absolute best way to mount a motor is to hang it where you want it and weld the mounts in. I personally would just tack it enough for the motor to stay there and make sure everything fits before welding is solid.

 

I am not sure a SBC will clear a stock firewall?

 

Still seems better to hang the engine, trans, and radiator in there with the body on and mock it up. Sorry, got lots of time on my hands.

 

Not sure of this , only read about it. The stock fuel pump will not clear frame rail??

 

The only sure way is to set motor in with water pump and distributor in place.. Why risk being wrong...