I use 3/8 copper on all my builds . It’s good for 150 psi , flares easy , bends easy and no rust ever to deal with . I really never flare unless it is to meet another fitting as in fuel pump or carb inlet . I use Swedgelok fittings they are aerospace guality . They best advice here no matter what type of line you choose is anchor it tightly and safety , and you will never have one issue .
#8 push lock fittings and Summit Twist hose from the fuel cell to my filter then my pump. Same # 8 hose to the regulator then # 6 to each bowl of the carb. I use Adel clamps to clamp it to the chassis always outside of the frame rail so if the driveshaft decides to blow out of the u joints I won't have worry about it taking out the fuel line.
What brand name of clamp can I use for 3/8" rubber line that doesn't have the worm gear slots all the way around? I looked at single ear clamps, ( same as CV joint boots use ), but wanted something I can take one off to change the filter. Any venders you recommend? or google search name I can use? Joe
I would not use straight copper lines. Copper is soft. There is a reason car manufactures use that springy stone guard piece where rocks can kick up, even on steel lines. I would also plan your route where you will have the least possible spot for damage. Tucked in the frame and on upper part of the rear axle.
There is a new to the US , NiCop tubing that comes in a roll . It is soft as copper , seems lots are using it for brake installations on this forum . It is produced in 3/8 also . If it too soft for a fuel line , do you also feel it’s to soft for brake systems also ? Just saying I have driven 100s of thousands of miles with copper not one issue , and it’s easily available at any hardware store in enough length to use one piece front to rear . I would be the first to stand up and take a shot at shooting it down if it was junk , it’s not . A note also the longer it is straightened out and in service the harder and less flexible it gets , protecting it from damage . To each his own on line choice , just anchor it safely and carry on .
The nickle, copper stuff is great. Just watch, ebay has some china junk on there that isn't worth a shit.
Also on rubber hose I just order the push loc hose, you can run anything through it as far as fuels and it's cheaper than the good fuel hose at the parts stores.
I've done this a few times. With the fittings I'm going to connect to in my pocket, I head to my local hydraulic sales and service store and have them make the entire length in my choice of S/S braided or black. It's simple to run a string along the route the 'hose' will run, snip it to length and put it in the other pocket. My only task is to figure out what kind and how many hanger clips to use. I never liked the look of those red and blue, anodized fittings and I don't mind the yellow zinc look, that matches Holley carbs, on the hydraulic gear, so it works for me. I've had the hydraulic boys re-crimp my ends on new A/C hose, make fuel lines, oil lines, pneumatic speaking tubes to the engine room, flux lines for the capacitor, you name it, they've done it for me.
The NiCopp lines are well suited for brake and fuel, I am using it myself. With NiCopp available present day, why would anyone use straight copper which is softer. If my car had existing copper lines would I change them out? Probably not. For a new build, that's a different story.
Did you run a flexi from the chassis t the body transition on the firewall to allow for body movement? Also, are you running a in tank pump (the return line mention got me wondering) if so, which one? I'm currently looking at all this on my 40, alot of ways to jump..
I did not run a flex line to the firewall. I would hope the cab isn't moving around once bolted to the frame. I did run a flex from the frame to the tank to make removal and service easier, and from the fuel filter on the firewall to the Holley. I have a TanksInc tank but I used a Holley Sniper internally regulated in-tank pump that did not require an external regulator or a return line (aint technology neat?). Yes, there are a lot of ways to skin a cat (disgusting adage). Particularly when you are starting from scratch as opposed to retro fitting a vehicle. And they all will probably work just fine as long as you utilize the correct components that are engineered to work together and not piecing something together and trying to get lucky.
In answer to Joe H question on worm clamp slots digging into fuel hose, there's a type that the slots don't go all the way through the clamp. Very good clamps. I thought I would remember the name by the time I finished writing this but I didn't....
100%. Here's another vote for the Swagelok, or similar Yor-Lok, Parker, etc., double ferrule compression fittings. These are insanely easy to work with and polish brilliantly. They're also rated for far more pressure than would be seen in any automotive application, and are often found in aerospace and nuclear power applications. One of the nicest thing about them is that it eliminates the necessity to flare the tube, so you can run everything in Stainless, and simply cut the end off with a garden-variety tubing cutter, deburr it, stick it in the end of the fitting a go a bit past hand tight, and it will NEVER leak. I just ordered a load of them from Stainlesssteelfitings.com, and they've been about the cheapest I've found and have been nice to deal with. Be prepared to spend between $13 and $25 per fitting. But then enjoy leak and trouble free operation for years to come.
I'm upgrading to a Holley Sniper* so I had to go to an in-tank pump (Tanks Inc.) which I was told should run 3/8" supply line, 5/16" return and 1/4" for vent. Question : I'm planning on using double flared steel brake lines with inverted flare brass fittings. Will those be adequate for high pressure fuel lines? As previously mentioned in this thread, I'll be going from tank to engine including an in-line Holley filter with the steel lines (return too...) held onto the boxed frame with Kugel clamps. I just want to make sure that the brake fittings will work for fuel lines. Thanks My52Chebby * Because I also want my truck to have a remote start.
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